06 Quigley wheels.

[Elltom]

"if the wheels don't match the front axle" ........use an 8x6.5 to 8x170 adapter. No?
Will measure the offset, and see where the 1.5, or 2" spacer is best. Thanks, Tom

[ANZAC]

Originally Posted by Elltom

"if the wheels don't match the front axle" ........use an 8x6.5 to 8x170 adapter. No?
Will measure the offset, and see where the 1.5, or 2" spacer is best. Thanks, Tom

If you have bought some wheels, and they don't fit the front axle, you don't want to put spacers on the front, you don't want more track at the front.

If they fit the front and don't fit the back (unlikely, see above post) then you can put spacers on the back to convert.

[Elltom]

Appears a 1.5" adapter will put the super duty wheels exactly where the steelies are now. Should I go there? Wheel fitment threads have always bored me before, so sorry for that! This is sooo much more interesting to ME now. Thanks guys.

[carringb]

Yeah. That's one way to go. But make sure the adapters have a hub flange built-in, since you will be using hub-centric wheels.

[Elltom]

Removed a rear wheel, and no spacer there. A 1.5" adapter would put the new wheel center line exactly where the old ones were. It's been suggested that this will still place addition stresses on the hub. Seems minimal to me...... Much to consider.

[carringb]

Originally Posted by Elltom

Removed a rear wheel, and no spacer there. A 1.5" adapter would put the new wheel center line exactly where the old ones were. It's been suggested that this will still place addition stresses on the hub. Seems minimal to me...... Much to consider.

If the wheel centerline is in the same place, stress on the hub will be the same, regardless of where the wheel flange sits.

[jage]

Originally Posted by carringb

If the wheel centerline is in the same place, stress on the hub will be the same, regardless of where the wheel flange sits.

I had to sketch it out, but as far as I can see this is correct. Basically the face of the old wheel and the new spacer are identical in position and stress, the outer wheel, tire, hub and axle are all identical in position and stress the only thing that is different is the structural geometry between the outer wheel and flange face (now the spacer), which doesn't change any of the forces the axle or flange will experience.

Normally spacers DO increase the stress, because normally the centerline changes and the leverage is increased, as the rims are not changed at the same time. But as long as you're not increasing the track width (which most people here with spacers are) then the only increased stress are on the spacers, hardware, and rim itself- meaning buy quality spacers.

[carringb]

BTW - if you have the Full-float axle, I would go even bigger on the rear adapters. The van will be more stable with a wider rear track, as long as you have the axle to handle it. And with the full float, you may need bigger anyways to have enough space to the new flange.

BTW - U-Joint sells the proper flanged adapters. Most adapters are not flanged, and can only be used with lug-centic wheels, which the SuperDuty wheels are not.

[Ford_6L_E350]

If you have a full floater, the hub flange on the spacer is only about 1/8" thick. The full float hub is nearly the same diameter as the SD wheel. It is still strong enough to support the weight and locate the wheel.

Mike

[Elltom]

2006 e350 v10 Quigley V10. Empty RB cargo. Semi floating axle. No spacers in rear axle. Adapters will alter the hub situation ultimately, but acceptable. There is exactly a 1.5" difference between the stock steelies, and the shiny SuperDuty Wheels. The SD wheels have a thicker flange, so 1/4" less offset there, in case this info helps anyone other than me.
I would like to increase the track. 2" adapter might be doable. I'll have to check that the track width is the same front and back now. Anyone suggesting more adapter in the back on a semi-floating axle, or is symmetry where it's at? ET.