converting e-series full float axle bolt pattern, is it possible?

[lazybummm]

Quigley said I have a Chevy style Dana 60 - MODEL: 060BA110-1

Is it same as yours?

I feel much more comfortable with moving forward, and I'll decide whether to upgrade the brakes. Thanks again for all your help! Is the ABS ring in this assembly? your sensor worked as well?

[shenrie]

No, mine has a Ford d60 axle from a 03 Ford F-350. Someone else will need to confirm if your bearings are serviceable or not, but disregard the timken pn I referenced. That’s specifically for the ford axles.

[BVerhulst]

Originally Posted by REF

Yes, but then you’ve got to purchase yourself a set of new wheels all the way around and new front as well as rear rotors too. Boulder off Road is building me a full float. The way I understand it, to keep the spacing the same as stock, and to be able to use existing wheels and swap the brakes over, they use Dana 60 E series axles and put in all new internals with 35 spline shafts, which are not stock or available on the vans, so they have to cut them down to fit the narrower Econoline axles. Spacers are still needed to match the front width, but that’s less of a concern on a FF.

Thanks for the info and lead; I think I'll be giving Boulder Off Road a call myself here soon. Mind if I ask what it'll set me back?

[REF]

What amount of money would ALMOST be too much, that’s about what it’ll set you back.....but it’ll be done right. I’ve seen what others have said they’ve spent on a FF, and it’s a lot less than what I’m being charged. I’m not sure if what they’re quoting includes what’s being done at BOR-tearing down, blasting, installing all new internals, gears and a trutrac, cromoly 35 spline axles, painted and re-installed. I was quoted almost half of the FF build to tear down my existing SF and replace all the bearings and seals, so I just went for it.
Just got a call from BOR, as I was writing this, most everything is assembled, dropping the van off to them this week to get brakes swapped and new FF installed[emoji847] I’ll post up some pics on the “what did you do” thread


'03 Ford E350 7.3L Diesel
SMB RB50 w/CCV top
Quigley 4X4 w/Deavers & Agile RIP kit

[JoeH]

Originally Posted by REF

What amount of money would ALMOST be too much, that’s about what it’ll set you back.....but it’ll be done right. I’ve seen what others have said they’ve spent on a FF, and it’s a lot less than what I’m being charged. I’m not sure if what they’re quoting includes what’s being done at BOR-tearing down, blasting, installing all new internals, gears and a trutrac, cromoly 35 spline axles, painted and re-installed. I was quoted almost half of the FF build to tear down my existing SF and replace all the bearings and seals, so I just went for it.
Just got a call from BOR, as I was writing this, most everything is assembled, dropping the van off to them this week to get brakes swapped and new FF installed[emoji847] I’ll post up some pics on the “what did you do” thread


'03 Ford E350 7.3L Diesel
SMB RB50 w/CCV top
Quigley 4X4 w/Deavers & Agile RIP kit

Well geez I wouldn't be so apologetic. I could easily see it adding up to $5k with installation. Just setting up the gears properly is $300 in labor. Shock mounts need to be moved and the spring perch shimmed to align the pinion and drive shaft. Lots going on besides simply rebuilding the axle.

I've had several folks reach out to me asking about FF upgrades so when it's all said and done I think the final number will be of interest to quite a few folks.

[REF]

JoeH, that's just about right. Wasn't being apologetic, more of an issue of sticker shock on my end after seeing what others had paid for a FF swap. But yes, this is a pretty involved process I'm having done, pretty much par for the course and the way BOR does things, not just swapping it in with existing internals in who knows what condition.
Brian, I'm sure Don wouldn't mind if you wanted to swing by to chat numbers and check out the install on my van this week, dropping off today. Feel free to PM me, maybe we can coordinate to meet up. BTW-I did get your other PM message, was feeling weird about publishing a shops numbers, or maybe it was because of what I was paying, plus there are so many variable factors, but it's upwards of $5K+.....

[JoeH]

Ah got it. Well it's a big project even if you act as the general contractor so to speak. Time is money and even though I didn't do the install it was still a huge time sink plus doing all the research and figuring out what I needed. But in the theme of helping others the steps I took were:

1. Source the axle from a salvage yard in Phoenix. 300 miles pulling a trailer.
2. Back to my place to tear it apart for inspection and measure the axles.
3. Hauled it back down to Phoenix to setup the differential with the new gears and locker.
4. Back to my place to grind off the shock mounts, prep, and paint.
5. Haul it over to my mechanic for the install, including new brakes and stainless brake lines. Shock mounts were welded with the axle in place and the spring perches worked ok as is.
6. Deal with old axle which nobody wants

I was able to source all my own parts which is a considerable savings. But it took some time to find the best deals and correct part #s, etc. Basic parts breakdown:

D60 SRW FF with 9.75 ring gear $500
Dutchman 1541 chromoly 35 spline axles $355
Diff ring gear and pinion $300
Spicer diff bearing kit $54
Timken SET76 inner bearings and race $37
Timken SET38 outer bearings and race $20
Timken wheel seals 9864S $9
D60 metal axle flange gaskets $6
Shock mounts $50
U-bolts 4pcs 5/8" rod bent on 3.5" $60
ARB D60 diff cover $180
new brake calipers and rotors $250
new stainless brake lines $150
Gear oil $50

labor to install locker and gears $225
labor to press bearings into hub $50
labor to install axle and brakes $1300

So, close to $4k with a lot of leg work. Add in another $1k for the ARB locker. Lots of upside to simply having someone do it

[ShuttlePilot]

Originally Posted by REF

JoeH, that's just about right. Wasn't being apologetic, more of an issue of sticker shock on my end after seeing what others had paid for a FF swap.

“As I hurtled through space, one thought kept crossing my mind - every part of this rocket was supplied by the lowest bidder.” - John Glenn

REF, The cost is appropriate based on what is in the mind of the person sitting in the pilot seat. There will always be folks that will "know a guy", "got a deal" or somehow seemed to have done it at half price. Good for them.

It's been true before me with my father and me with race cars, desert toys, and construction equipment that there are two kinds of axle shops. Those who make perfect reliable axles and those who catastrophically can not. There is no in between. So when we found a shop that was good we only went to them and they usually cost money. Not rip off money but were not the cheap route. I think your fine if it serves you well.

And JoeH, That's too pretty to put under my SMB.

-Eric

[lazybummm]

Does anyone have insights on which years have the Dana 70 housing but came with Dana 60 internals? I suspect they are just listed as Dana 60. I'm just thinking it might be the most economical way to go about going FF and a little bigger. If I find one of these, that'll slide right under and the swap in Dana 70 internals...

[carringb]

2000's did. I think it start in '97 but through '99 was drum brakes. So for disc brakes, '99-'02 might be the only years. And possibly only in extended wagons.