MG Metal Works DIY kit knowledge share

[Brian94ht]

Thanks for that post REF, I like that. Any chance you have a better pic of the bracket the bar attaches to at the frame?

I figured out why I was having trouble getting the sway bar to fit, I was using the wrong damn bar!
I have just assumed all along (you know because on my ujoint van I used the truck bar and not the van bar) that I was using the bigger truck bar. I have followed many of the MG build threads (even scrolled a couple last night) and can't recall it mentioned, besides it saying nothing in the instructions about it.
Without looking at the part# list for the sway bar, bushings, brackets, and links, I bought truck bar bushings, and brackets, already had the bar and links....
Last night I got to looking at the sway bar links using the part# and realized they are for a bar with horizontal bolts vs. vertical bolts like my F250 bar/links, VAN Parts!

I'm not excited about using the smaller bar. I've been contemplating ways to make the truck bar work and it would require a drop bracket to attach bar to frame (like REF's pics). Putting this on the back burner and will get back to it later.

The brake lines, I think the 99-2004 F series (or wait are they eseries? Or Ujoint proprietary parts?, I might have to look) brake lines would be a better fit for this application. They are set up to go through the hole behind the shock in the spring bucket with a clip on the back. The 2005 and up ones attach to the hardline there at a 90 and make it so you cant utilize the clip.
My Wagner lines have no brackets on the ends, just a big one in the middle (it attaches to the OEM lower spring perch). I would have bought the recommended Ford lines but the description online for these said it had brackets (that MG said he liked).
Radius arm brackets, although 5 of the 8 holes were in the frame already, all of the side holes had to be "egged" to the bottom of the frame to get them to work.

Doing the conversion on jack stands presents challenges (easily overcome) as the jack stands don't have many places to sit under the frame with the radius arms location. You can see them in the pic below with one side of the top of the stand tabbed into a slot under the radius arm bracket allowing room for the arms. This meant that they had to be moved (from a location just behind the OEM r-brackets) after the radius arm brackets were installed by jacking up the vehicle with blocks under the engine cross member.
This said, this axle kit has been very easy to install, I have about 20 hours into installing the nearly complete axle.
Rolled it in under on a couple car dollys, attached radius arms, and jacked the axle up into position.


Relocated stands. If they were behind the brackets I might have ended up with a teter totter...

The bumpstops with extenders were installed with a new hole in a little tab/flange here. Also, I managed to drill all of the holes without a right angle drill, For tight areas I used my little cordless impact.


I will post some more pics as I button things up, wheels/tires and brake lines are the last things left (for the front axle install at least).

[Brian94ht]

Ok here's one...Brake lines, Mine don't fit!
The flare nut on the van frame side is 10x1.5 and the frame side of the hose end is 3/8-24, wtf
Edit: For the record, this is a 2011 E350 Cutaway,v10, DRW
So knowing that I have had a habit of not buying the recommended parts, I went and looked up the part numbers from page 2
Brake hose, right DC3Z-2078-L $23.33
Brake hose, left DC3Z-2078-H $24.00
These are 2014-2015 F250 hoses according to here, https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts...3z-2078-l.html
That number cross references to these for 2013-2016 F250,https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsear...tnum=DC3Z2078L
The ones I bought,
WAGNER BH144813 and BH144812 2013-2016 F250

So why are the threads on the frame side hose end different than the threads on the flare nut on the e series frame side? Is my van one of a kind in this way?

Since I had to rob the banjo bolts off the e-series calipers and they fit on the truck calipers I assume e-series brake hoses will fit?

I need van parts not truck parts? lol

[mgmetalworks]

I've never seen this mismatch. Used those exact truck brake lines on every conversion we've done here in the shop.

There are adapter fittings that can go from one to the other. I've purchased them through NAPA before for various projects. Searching online there seems to be some options for fittings too. I like the truck brake lines since they've always worked for us but I've used aftermarket stainless braided lines too. That is another option.

The eseries brake lines may fit but they might be a little shorter than the truck lines. check that they can extend far enough.

[Brian94ht]

Originally Posted by mgmetalworks

I've never seen this mismatch. Used those exact truck brake lines on every conversion we've done here in the shop.

This is what I was hoping you would say!
I thought I was going nuts, when in fact its FORD that is nuts.

I'm considering my options.
I cut my e-series lines when I removed the suspension, holding them in place I would say that they would work although maybe a touch short.
The ujoint conversion lines I mentioned in a previous post don't look like they will work because the 99-2004 F calipers have a different attachment point
Not sure if I want to go so far as to have custom braided lines made considering lead times and cost.
Maybe I can find some extended length e-series braided lines
I might be able to find some coupler fittings locally Tuesday morning and just use the F lines I have.

[Brian94ht]

Looks like the e-series front brake hoses changed part# in 2008
2007 and earlier 6C2Z-2078-ML (I didn't go back earlier than 2006, just looking for this late cutoff) These are assumed to be 3/8-24 on the van frame side
2008 and later 8C2Z-2078-BL assumed to be M10x1.0
There was also a note with the above part#, "Production Date: 08/2007-"

So this change was made 08/2007

MG isn't yours an 08?
I'm surprised this hasn't been brought up in anyones conversions yet.

[mgmetalworks]

The Cummins van is a '13.

Are you building a cab/chassis? 6.0? or V10?

[Brian94ht]

2011 E350 cutaway, v10, DRW
Looking at Ford part#'s doesn't seem to differentiate between E350 body styles

[Trevor]

Regarding the swaybar: you might consider driving without one before sinking more time and money into that part of it.



I had installed a swaybar initially. In its first iteration the passenger swabar link would just kiss the drag link adjuster at full right steering. I moved the mounts back and that fixed the contact issue, but then I tried removing it entirely just to see how it handled. To me it feels pretty much the same without it, and I drive it on some twisty mountain roads.



I suspect these radius-arm suspensions provide some inherent roll resistance that one cannot expect out of a 4-link or leaf-sprung front end.



Maybe you'll decide you'd prefer having one... but it might be worth saving that decision until later in your project.

[JimGee]

Hello brand new member here, although I have done a previous E350 4x4 conversion using ExpoVan / Mg MetalWorks excellent kit using a 2015 front 1:3.73 axle.
I'm starting another 4x4 conversion, this time on a NOS 2006 E450 Ambulance that has 1:410 rear differential gearing and would like to match the front preferably without doing a crown/pinion regear. Fronts with the 4.10 ratio I understand ended in 2010. Having the larger brakes would be great considering the Ambulance GVRW of 14,500 Lbs.
Does anyone know if the larger 14.3" front brakes from 2013+ Ford F350 will fit on an earlier axle, from say year 2008-2010?
Thanks for any insights.

[mgmetalworks]

Jim,
The difference is in the knuckles.... click here to see a 2007 knuckle (grey) overlaid on a 2013 knuckle (red). They're virtually the same in every dimension except for the mounting points for the caliper.

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...cture39848.jpg