MG Metal Works DIY kit knowledge share

[bet on black]

Originally Posted by b. rock

Out of curiosity, how many folks with the MG conversion end up running a steering stabilizer?

i'm just using the single fox one using the OEM bracket that is a part of the UJ kit.

adding more caster with alignment shims really helped to keep it wanting to track straight

[Mikerson]

A few cross-member questions for you all.

Originally Posted by Houstonredrider

When I did my conversion I looked at the UJ option and wasn’t sure about the offset of the support and the bracket. As a temporary fix, I drilled two holes on the MG brackets, cut and bend the van cross member and bolted to the brackets. It was a temporary fix, but one and a half years later still working.

No damage or bending of the radius arm bracket?

Originally Posted by keytothestone

Houstonredrider .So UJ has been seeing the same problems and agreed with my mechanic with x-member location in the coil kit with the 5.4s. Chris had a coil conv. at the shop and mocked up a new one around the radius arm. One is on it's way to the shop in Durango. My mechanics also believe the vibration is been caused to some damage to the DS and had it removed and sent out for repairs. Hopefully this is the end of this issue. Also Chris with all the problems with van I have had and has to dread getting my emails but he's been great about making things right and helping out. Just got back in town today. I beleive the new XM has been recived heading to the shop see what's going on.

In the photo, it looks like Chris's new cross-member bolts to the radius arm bracket as well. Keytothestone, can you confirm this? Do you have any other pics? Did this solve the issue?

Originally Posted by mgmetalworks

What needs to happen is that cross member has to move back behind the radius arm brackets (new holes drilled in frame) and the mount will have to drop down. On Jsweezy's van, he used a cross member from a V10 van (to get the drop down) and then fabricated an extension to bring the trans mount holes forward (the cross member is shifted back now but the trans mount holes have to come forward a bit to line up with the new tailhousing). He also made a relief in the cross member to give the front driveshaft more clearance.

Is this what ujoint originally did for their installs of the MG coil kit?

[Houstonredrider]

Originally Posted by Mikerson

A few cross-member questions for you all.



No damage or bending of the radius arm bracket?



In the photo, it looks like Chris's new cross-member bolts to the radius arm bracket as well. Keytothestone, can you confirm this? Do you have any other pics? Did this solve the issue?

I haven't seen any damages. I only drilled a 10mm hole. In fact, this approach should reinforce the lateral rigidity of the RA brackets (They do not see much sideload though).

My idea whenever I decide to do it right is to have one plate welded on each side of the shortened original cross member. Each plate will have two holes, one for the Radius arm bolt and the other for the bolt I am currently using support the cross member. It looks like Chris' uses a similar approach for what I can see on the picture.

[keytothestone]

I haven't had mine installed yet. Had to get a new axle housing. Had a inner C on the axle UJ installed... got wallowed out some how and won't seat a ball joint properly. Finally going on the rack Monday! Shop is going to do the new x-member on the RA that Chris sent out at the same time. Let you know how it turns out in a couple of weeks.

Originally Posted by Mikerson

A few cross-member questions for you all.



No damage or bending of the radius arm bracket?



In the photo, it looks like Chris's new cross-member bolts to the radius arm bracket as well. Keytothestone, can you confirm this? Do you have any other pics? Did this solve the issue?



Is this what ujoint originally did for their installs of the MG coil kit?

[keytothestone]

It was asked of me to post a pic of the new cross member Chris sent me before it gets put in. I dropped the van off and got some pics. It came in 3 pcs a few bolts and with some vague instructions to get welded up. Hope this helps

[Mikerson]

This pin is sticking out of the bottom of my frame, it looks like it interfaces with the track bar mount, but it’s definitely too big to fit through the hole in the mount. Not sure if it will line up if I drill the hole in the mount larger. Don’t want to drill through my powder coating. Should I cut the pin off or drill out the hole? Anybody know? Thanks

[Mikerson]

Here’s a better shot of the pin sticking out the bottom of the frame. Driver’s side. Is it supposed to interface with the hole in the track bar mount? The pin is bbigger than the hole. Any help appreciated!

[mgmetalworks]

That pin is not on a lot of frames. It can be removed/cut off flush. Not needed.

[Mikerson]

Thanks for all the help everybody, this thread is a great resource! Waiting on a drag link that was damaged in shipping then my front end is done. On to the rear...

Can somebody post up a few pics of their rear driveshaft setups with the sterling and NP271.
What do I need for driveshafts?
Front: Lengthened donor from a 99-04 superduty? Do other years work?

Rear: Not sure if I need a one piece DS or two piece with a carrier. Can this use a modified donor or does it have to be from scratch? Where would one mount the carrier bearing on the van if two piece?

For rear lift I did the shackle flip like JSweezy. Thanks for your thread man. Probably have to get an add-a-leaf unless the front settles down.

[Trevor]

I went ahead and had a new single piece 3.5 inch diameter shaft made. 1350 joints and a double cardian CV. Take some measurements and call a driveshaft shop... they should be able to help you out even if you end up modifying a used shaft.