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Old 12-12-2008, 07:14 PM   #1
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Tie rod ends

While taking a day off work yesterday to do some maintenance on my Bronco and SMB, I noticed the greaseboots on the SMB tie rod ends are more or less collapsed, including some splitting of the rubber itself.

Are the tie rod, and more specifically the tie rods ends, Ford parts or Dynatrac parts?

Anyone know if the boots themselves can be replaced, or do the tie rod ends need to be replaced? Also, is there a front end alignment in my future after I replace the boots and/or rod ends?


thanks,
Herb
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Old 12-12-2008, 10:29 PM   #2
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Re: Tie rod ends

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco_hauler
While taking a day off work yesterday to do some maintenance on my Bronco and SMB, I noticed the greaseboots on the SMB tie rod ends are more or less collapsed, including some splitting of the rubber itself.

Are the tie rod, and more specifically the tie rods ends, Ford parts or Dynatrac parts?

Anyone know if the boots themselves can be replaced, or do the tie rod ends need to be replaced? Also, is there a front end alignment in my future after I replace the boots and/or rod ends?


thanks,
Herb

I replaced my tie rods ends with new ones because the whata-em-call-it socket and ball joint was wearing out also. There is an mexican trick to remove them and really wack them hard at the zerg point with a hammer to extend the life out em.

My mechanic showed me since I had to wait on the special replacement from Quigley. I had actually thought I could use a F450 Heavy duty tie rod (we tried like 2 different ones from Carquest) but they seemed to be the same length side by side but just not the right curve to them. I tried them but the steering was way to off; bearly able to make right turns.
So I put the wacked Quigley Tie-Rods back on and had to order and wait for the right Quigley Tie Rod from Quigley and after the re-install it's better then perfect for now.

Yes, you do need to do a re-alignment. On the Quigley 4x4, I lucked out in adjusting the Toe-in myself (1/16th) since my BFG tires were less then half way worn. I'll have a Alignment shop do it official once I get new tires again.
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Old 12-12-2008, 11:50 PM   #3
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SMB tie rod ends are standard Moog ES194R/L ends. Any parts store should be able to get them for you. As per "sloppy steering" thread.

http://sportsmobileforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=2197
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Old 12-13-2008, 08:41 AM   #4
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Be sure to add to the SMB parts thread whatever info you determine. Thanks!
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Old 12-13-2008, 12:53 PM   #5
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My Ball Joints are shot and will be replaced next week. Here is some info on the 2006 Pro Rock 60

Tie Rod Ends:
Moog # ES2082R Dynatrac # DA60-3304-T
Moog # ES2083L Dynatrac # DA60-3304-U

Ball Joints: Old Spicer # 707238X Now 700238-2X
(My parts man had to order from Dynatrac and could not cross reference)

Brake Caliper/Pads: E-350

Brake Line: Stock Ford E350

Brake Rotor: 1995-98 Ford F350/Auto Specialty AR8553/ Dynatrac # DA601125-D

Wheel Studs: Dynatrac DA60-1107-AL / Dorman # 610-283

Timken Wheel Bearings:
Inner: 387A------------------Dynatrac # DA60-1244-A
Inner Race: 382A Dynatrac # DA60-4222-B
Outer: LM104949------------Dynatrac # DA60-1244-B
Outer Race: LM104911 Dynatrac # DA602-4222-C
Grease Seal: 48816------------------Dynatrac # DA60-1175-D

Spindle Spanner nut: Spicer # 33732-----Dynatrac # DA60-1195-A
Lock Washer: Spicer #33733 Dynatrac # DA60-1198-A

Axle Shaft U-Joint: Spicer # 5-332X---Dynatrac # DA69-3249-A

Inner Axle Seal: 36487-------------------------Dynatrac # DA60-3254-A

Warn Premium Manual Hubs: Warn # 38826

Yoke: 1350 Series Spicer # 3-4-5731X

ABS Sensor Driver Side:------GM 15990503
ABS Sensor Passenger Side GM 15990504

This is for a 2006 Pro Rock 5500lb rated front axle and may vary from year to year.

For more info contact Ebber @ SMB West or
Dan @ Dynatrac (714) 596-4461 ext 216
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Old 12-13-2008, 06:54 PM   #6
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The tie rod ends are Moog (the big bastards). The drag link is Motocraft. www.rockauto.com had the best price on all. Installed mine last night. Easiest removal of tie rods ever. When doing the tie rod ends (before you remove them from the rod or change anything), place the works on a board, your drivway, dining room floor, wherever. Then mark around the tie rod ends with a Shaprie. When you setup up the tie rod with the new ends, you can place it on your marks to make sure you've set the distance up the same as before. If you don't, its off to the alignment shop for ya to have yoru toe adjusted.
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Old 12-18-2008, 10:52 AM   #7
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I didn't want to post the info I received in the Parts reference thread and clutter it up, since it agrees with what Daveb provided above.

From Dynatrac; they have been using the tie rod ends Daveb mentioned, since 2004. Dynatrac did respond to my question on post-replacement alignment by stating "As far as the alignment goes there is a way that can be done to just change the rod end without an alignment. But it is a little backwoods style." They provided a number for the shop manager and offered that I can call him and he'll explain it to me. I'll take notes, and if he's OK with me posting the info, I'll update this thread.

From SMBw; same part numbers that both Dynatrac and Daveb mentioned. SMBw does recommend a toe-in alignment.


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Old 12-18-2008, 11:22 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deminimis
The tie rod ends are Moog (the big bastards). The drag link is Motocraft. www.rockauto.com had the best price on all. Installed mine last night. Easiest removal of tie rods ever. When doing the tie rod ends (before you remove them from the rod or change anything), place the works on a board, your drivway, dining room floor, wherever. Then mark around the tie rod ends with a Shaprie. When you setup up the tie rod with the new ends, you can place it on your marks to make sure you've set the distance up the same as before. If you don't, its off to the alignment shop for ya to have yoru toe adjusted.
Just placed my order with RockAuto. I can see what I'll be doing over the holidays...


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Old 12-18-2008, 02:10 PM   #9
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The below is based upon what I was told by the shop manager at Dynatrac. It was very basic, so I did not ask him about whether or not it was OK to post, but because of that, I won't attach his name to it.

Basically, there are two ways he said the tie rod ends could be replaced without having to go in for a front end alignment. He did not recommend doing either of these, but he didn't not-recommend doing either of these. Got it?

1) Measure the amount of thread visible on each tie rod end, and replicate it when installing the new tie rod ends.

2) As you unscrew the tie rod ends, count the number of revolutions, and replicate the same number of revolutions (in the other direction) when installing the new tie rod ends.

He did also mention that it was easy enough (with a helper) to measure the toe-in before and after. He recommended a toe-in of between 1/16" - 1/8".

FWIW, here are the front end alignment specs previously given to me by Peter at SMBw, when I had an alignment problem earlier this year (uneven tire wear). If you need an alignment, I recommend calling your SMB location for the specs on your rig.

[color=olive]Camber
LF .15
RF .8 (yes, this is what his e-mail said, though I seem to recall verifying it was 0.18, not 0.8)

Caster
LF 4.05
RF 4.75

[i][b]Toe 1/16â€
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Old 12-27-2008, 10:13 AM   #10
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Anyone happen to know the torque spec on the tie rod end castle nuts?


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