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Old 01-07-2018, 11:58 AM   #1
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Transfer case BW1356 failure

So I made an earlier post about the E4od popping out of gear while on vacation in Death Valley, about 60miles from a paved road.

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...tom-20913.html

I thought it might be the E4od transmission, but really wanted to diagnose it before pulling things apart. Fortunately for me, transfixer (on the powerstroke nation forum) pointed me to the transfer gear case, advising I take a closer look and test it.

Through some testing, watching a couple BW1356 t-case rebuild videos on youtube, I came up with an explanation for why the grinding noise/symptoms.

I pulled the t-case and got it apart on the bench, and I'll be dammed if the failure wasn't textbook

I know most guys here aren't as DIY adventurous as I am (stupid, stubborn or crazy/nuts, you decide) so this might have limited value on the SMB forum.

I've posted the details and pictures on another forum, link below.

Edit: I guess you have to be a member to see pics, so I copied and pasted everything here as well

Borg Warner 1356 failure - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 01-07-2018, 01:43 PM   #2
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Glad you found the problem. I also have a BW 1356 and it was popping out of 4 low. About a month ago I tore it apart expecting to find the selector forks worn out, but instead I found a C clip attached to the drain plug magnet. It turns out that clip belonged on the end of the shift shaft. After a close inspection, the remainder of the internals looked good, so I simply bent the clip back into shape and reinstalled it. Problem solved. As a side note, I just returned from 1500 miles of winter driving on heavily salted roads but have been putting off washing the underside of the van. Your experience has convinced me to get off my butt and get it done today, thanks.

By the way, your photos are not visible to non members of the Powerstroke forum, got time to post em here?
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:08 PM   #3
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pics

The first pic shows the pea-sized hole. Mind you, Bonneville salt flats salt was probably PACKED into this area for months, maybe a year. The third pic shows the range fork's plastic wear pads laying in the bottom of the sump, the fourth the pieces in hand and the worn range fork.
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IMG_2910.jpg   IMG_2912.jpg   IMG_2918.jpg   InkedIMG_2933_LI.jpg  
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:13 PM   #4
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With the plastic wear pads missing from the range fork, the increased clearance allows the the range engagement sleeve, that puts the t-case in low range, isn't held in precise position any longer. It's now allowed to float back and forth on the shaft, trying to 'float' into partial engagement. For some reason on this t-case, deceleration puts some pressure on the engagement sleeve. You can see from the pics below that not only are the plastic inserts missing (i'm holding them in pic #2), but the die cast aluminum fork has been worn away by the spinning engagement sleeve (arrow, pics #1 and #3).
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InkedIMG_2929_LI.jpg   InkedIMG_2933_LI.jpg   InkedIMG_2934_LI.jpg  
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:14 PM   #5
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I limped this rig home more than 400 miles, over some 4500ft passes, trying to not let it grind. I'm a little surprised the teeth didn't roll over so bad that I could get it into low range at all (while diagnosing the problem at home)

pics of the rolled over teeth, below
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:17 PM   #6
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While doing my internet research, it seems a common failure on this t-case is the oil pump. The pump has an anti-rotation arm that relies on a bump cast into the case, inside the case. Over time, the steel arm wears away the magnesium bump, the oil pump body now spins, ripping away the plastic oil pick up tube, ending all lubrication and as they say "It's all over but the cryin' "

My case bump is worn about 2/3rds the way through
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:37 PM   #7
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I thought I might try to repair this one, put a JB Weld patch on the hole (I'll take a closer look but might be non-load bearing area). Then weld a small rod onto the oil pump arm, like I've seen on another forum, to fix the worn out case bump issue.

Beside patched, it needs a new engagement sleeve (rolled teeth in pics above) the harder inner planetary teeth need stoned/repaired, range fork (both available new for $20 and $34) then all the seals.

But like someone here mentioned, it's been run low on oil, so do I trust the bearings? The chain? The only time I need 4x4 is when I'm in the back country, who wants to worry about a t-case letting you down, again, when I knew better. Beside, all the power goes thru the t-case in 2wd high, as well as 4wd high and 4wd low, if it breaks, you got nuthin' Nothing is blue, nothing looks like it got hot, but still... A master rebuild kit is $250 on ebay, comes with everything I need plus bearings

I slept on it, and have since had a 'come to Jesus meeting' with myself. And bounced it off my most trusted advisor

I think I'll scout out another BW1356 manual shift, flange output T-case. From interchange information I've been looking at, it looks like the 1356 came in full-size Ford Bronco's, F150-250's, from 1988 -98.
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arctictraveller View Post
Glad you found the problem...
Thanks, me too, glad it wasn't the transmission


Quote:
Originally Posted by arctictraveller View Post
By the way, your photos are not visible to non members of the Powerstroke forum, got time to post em here?
Done
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Old 01-07-2018, 07:52 PM   #9
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This place has rebuilt 1356's for $667, and will even cryo treat any shaft or gear if you want to go that route.

https://www.midwesttrans.com/1356.html


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Old 01-07-2018, 08:43 PM   #10
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Why not just fix your old one? $250 is a lot less than what ever a new one will cost. Epoxy the hole and fix the pump reaction arm, install new bearings, chain and gears and now you know exactly what you have.
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