You don't need one. Spray some PB blaster on the tone ring and carefully pry it loose and then tap the studs out with a BFH. That will separate them unless yours is way different than what I've seen. Tone ring must be removed for the rotor to slip off the back of the hub.
You don't need one. Spray some PB blaster on the tone ring and carefully pry it loose and then tap the studs out with a BFH. That will separate them unless yours is way different than what I've seen. Tone ring must be removed for the rotor to slip off the back of the hub.
Pulled the passenger side hub today. Will try to get them separated tomorrow.
I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to accomplish but on the old SMBs that I've updated I was changing the rotor to an over the hub style with a different rotor so I pressed the studs into the back of the hub (after removing the old rotor). By 06 I think some things had changed. I think you'll probably still want to ask SMB. What I did required changing of calipers and some light machining on them too, also spacing them to fit the new rotor.
I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to accomplish but on the old SMBs that I've updated I was changing the rotor to an over the hub style with a different rotor so I pressed the studs into the back of the hub (after removing the old rotor). By 06 I think some things had changed. I think you'll probably still want to ask SMB. What I did required changing of calipers and some light machining on them too, also spacing them to fit the new rotor.
I think you're about there then. Just put the new rotor on the same way and tap the studs in to get them started, then take your impact and lug nuts and seat the studs completely with it. Much easier than the BFH method.
I have found it tough to get the tone ring back where it was, centered and tight. Don't beat on it, they will break. Just dry all the PBblaster/oil/whatever off it and where it goes and tap it around carefully back into place.
Edit: Your tone ring is different than mine. Mine was on the inside of the hub (a bigger tone ring), yours is on the outside of the smaller part of the hub, so take what I've said with a grain of salt. It probably works the same way and is gently pressed in place but I'm not sure.
I think you're about there then. Just put the new rotor on the same way and tap the studs in to get them started, then take your impact and lug nuts and seat the studs completely with it. Much easier than the BFH method.
I have found it tough to get the tone ring back where it was, centered and tight. Don't beat on it, they will break. Just dry all the PBblaster/oil/whatever off it and where it goes and tap it around carefully back into place.
Edit: Your tone ring is different than mine. Mine was on the inside of the hub (a bigger tone ring), yours is on the outside of the smaller part of the hub, so take what I've said with a grain of salt. It probably works the same way and is gently pressed in place but I'm not sure.
Thanks. I dropped the hub off at a shop by my work that will separate the rotor for me for free. Once I measure the stud holes in the old rotor and drill out the new rotor to match, he is going to press the new studs in for me.
Ok, I've got this figured out. Once you remove the hub from the spindle, you have to remove the studs to separate the rotor from the hub. If your tone ring looks like mine, it is machined in the hub and cannot be removed. It will slip through the rotor. The stud holes need to be drilled up to 11/16 and the studs will now be a slip fit. Once you reinstall a rotor, the studs are inserted through the rotor and are pressed into the hub flange. As a side note, it is a good idea to pull the hub lock cap off and look to see what style and size the nuts are. Mine required a 4 spline 2 1/2 internal socket to remove, not the 6 spline some people have suggested.