Xfer case issues

[sierraskier]

Possible progress - appears the 1756 has fixed rear output yoke, while 1356 has slip rear output yoke. Not exactly sure what that means yet but I will figure it out! Appears to also match my build sheet.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...sfer-case.html


"When I lifted my 89 F150 I switched to a fixed rear output yoke transfer case so I could use a double cardan CV at the rear output. The case I bought new had way too much backlash so I contacted Borg Warner and dealt with one of thier engineers. They swapped the cases and sent me one that had the backlash spec. verified.
The case with the fixed rear output yoke by thier numbering system is a 1756 as printed on the invoice. It is also stamped on the tag that is attached to the case. My original case with the slip yoke output is stamped 1356."

[TomsBeast]

The only reason any of this matters is so you or the shop doesn't spend money and time needlessly chasing a ghost model number (Been there, done that). I'm just saying I've never come across any mention of a BW 1756

From the research I did a few months ago, I found the BW1356 came in as many as 4 possibilities; Splined slip yoke output w/electric shift. Splined slip yoke output w/manual shift. Flanged output w/electric shift. Flanged output w/manual shift. The BW1356 put in my van by the previous owner, has a flanged output. Same with the replacement I found in a wrecking yard, that came out of a 90's full size Bronco, flanged output. I came across an Eddie Bauer version of a Bronco that had an electric shift, makes sense, the high end model has electric. Anyhow, both mine and the wrecking yard Bronco's were tagged as BW1356, which turns out to be fairly commonly matted to the E4OD automatic transmission, which my 96 E350 7.3 PSD also came with.

Do a google search on Borg Warner 1756 to see if there is any other mentions, like spare parts, reman units, etc. If its out there, they break occasionally, so you should find parts and interchangeability info.

Flanged vs slip yoke expalined: In the fourwheeler spotter's guide link that I posted earlier,

Transfer Case Spotter’s Guide

picture #7, BW1356F, shows a slip yoke style T-case w/electric shift. Picture #14, NV 271/ NV 273 shows a flanged output you'd see on some BW1356's, like mine. The terms 'fixed yoke' means a u joint can directly bolt to it. Flanged is the same in function, but requires a second mating flange w/yoke, the way they do it on late model trucks, and most if not all Japanese trucks. Slip yoke means the output shaft of the t-case is splined, requiring a driveshaft set up for that.

I hope that is helpful

[sierraskier]

Originally Posted by TomsBeast

The only reason any of this matters is so you or the shop doesn't spend money and time needlessly chasing a ghost model number (Been there, done that). I'm just saying I've never come across any mention of a BW 1756

From the research I did a few months ago, I found the BW1356 came in as many as 4 possibilities; Splined slip yoke output w/electric shift. Splined slip yoke output w/manual shift. Flanged output w/electric shift. Flanged output w/manual shift. The BW1356 put in my van by the previous owner, has a flanged output. Same with the replacement I found in a wrecking yard, that came out of a 90's full size Bronco, flanged output. I came across an Eddie Bauer version of a Bronco that had an electric shift, makes sense, the high end model has electric. Anyhow, both mine and the wrecking yard Bronco's were tagged as BW1356, which turns out to be fairly commonly matted to the E4OD automatic transmission, which my 96 E350 7.3 PSD also came with.

Do a google search on Borg Warner 1756 to see if there is any other mentions, like spare parts, reman units, etc. If its out there, they break occasionally, so you should find parts and interchangeability info.

Flanged vs slip yoke expalined: In the fourwheeler spotter's guide link that I posted earlier,

Transfer Case Spotter’s Guide

picture #7, BW1356F, shows a slip yoke style T-case w/electric shift. Picture #14, NV 271/ NV 273 shows a flanged output you'd see on some BW1356's, like mine. The terms 'fixed yoke' means a u joint can directly bolt to it. Flanged is the same in function, but requires a second mating flange w/yoke, the way they do it on late model trucks, and most if not all Japanese trucks. Slip yoke means the output shaft of the t-case is splined, requiring a driveshaft set up for that.

I hope that is helpful

Awesome, thank you. Yes info here has been very helpful. fourwheeler.com had a bunch of other articles on transfer cases as well which helped so my knowledge of transfer cases is starting to come together. What I posted is about all I'm able to find on the 1756. It does appear that the BW1356 is by far the most common flavor in similar make/model/year Fords and seems like as long as we know what the attachments are that is what's most important. Spoke with the mechanic again and since I had the van in for other work they didn't actually get the case off and crack it open and of course without doing that they don't know for sure what exactly is failing, but are speculating based on what is happening and what they've seen in the past. Either way sounds like at a minimum we are talking about a rebuild kit, and depending what is going on, potentially more of the innards/complete rebuild, but will only know for sure once I get it back in there and they pull it apart. When I get van back I will crawl under there and verify as much as I can with human eye.

[arctictraveller]

Actual identification will only be important prior to ordering parts, but your mechanic should be able to take care of that quickly. More important in my mind is knowing exactly what is wrong with it, and without taking it apart, it's impossible to know or provide an accurate estimate of cost. Labor should only be a couple hours to R and R at most, Diagnosis should be pretty quick if the mechanic knows your model well, and reassembly with new parts shouldn't take more than half an hour or so, they are really simple to assemble. Hopefully, it won't be as high as $2500, since you can buy a rebuilt unit for much less than half of that and labor to R and R should be less than 2 hrs. Did you ever determine why they said you need custom work on your shift shaft if your simply rebuilding or replacing your current case? It worked fine before, it should again. You might want to check with a different shop before it's taken apart and you have no options left.

[arctictraveller]

No real progress to report yet. I've been spending all my free time working on my boat, getting it ready to sell, interviewing brokers, and researching comps. I did purchace another 1356 with the hopes its internals are in better shape than mine. It shifted crisply and seemed to work fine on the bench, but when I opened it it was pretty dirty inside. After a good soaking in degreaser and a pressure wash, it is much cleaner but I probably washed some debris into the bearings, so I may order a rebuild kit. The new case is a non PTO model, so it uses the much less expensive planitary gear set, with rebuilt sets available for 1/3 the cost of a PTO set.
Fortunately I'm only into the new TC $100 so far and I'm not in a huge hurry. Otherwise, does anyone know how to remove the shift linkage shown on the second photo? It looks like it just presses into the rubber bushing, but so far, a large amount of force refuses to seperate it. I can certainly apply even more force, but I'm afraid I'll destroy the bushing in the process.

[TomsBeast]

I used two opposing screwdrivers to pry the linkage arm off the stud. That bushing acts as a retainer, too, it's stubborn, but made of compliant urethane. It helps if you can prevent it from twisting while prying.

source of replacement bushings:
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Tra...uctinfo/31612/

[arctictraveller]

Originally Posted by TomsBeast

I used two opposing screwdrivers to pry the linkage arm off the stud.

Thanks, but it turns out I'll use the original case, so the linkage can stay put. I ended up combining parts from both T/C's. The second one had a planatary set that was much tighter than my original, and aluminum shift forks as opposed to one of mine which was plastic. My original T/C set up had an additional gear for a PTO, so the output shaft was splined for that gear, but the second one wasn't so I swapped the shaft and oil pump too. Now all I have to do is order a new output shaft seal and find a transmission jack or someone to help wrestle it back in by hand.

[arctictraveller]

So, the transfer case is together, but I stoped short of bolting the cases up because I bought some Permatex gasket maker, and did something I never do, I read the instructions. Holy crap, this stuff (ultra grey) scares me, and I don't scare easily. In the instructions it says "Precaution, contains 2-butanone oxime, obtain special instructions before use" Ok, what the hell, I'll google it. It turns out the MSDS (material safety data sheet) reads like a horror story. I've read hundreds of MSDS's (as part of my job) and rarely have I seen a consumer product with dire warnings like this. Safety equipment required include tight fitting safety goggles, ensure adequate ventilation, protective gloves and an air purifying respirator with organic vapor cartridge. Got some on your skin? Wash the affected area thoroughly. Get it on your clothes? Do not take them out of the work area. In your eyes? Causes serious irritation, get immediate medical attention. Oh yea, it causes cancer too. Ok, perhaps I'll use something a little less toxic, then I read this:

Guinea pigs, rats, and mice that breathed high levels of 2-butanone for a short time became unconscious and died.J an 21, 2015

That settles it, it's going back where I bought it............

[rnj]

I resealed my Rear Diff Cover on my driveway using Permatex Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker last year and had no issues. Never saw the statement as the English instructions are above the Spanish instructions then all the precautionary wording so it is sort of buried in all the wording. My cover no longer leaks. I had the dealer replace the rear axle seals and it had a drip.

[TomsBeast]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

Guinea pigs, rats, and mice that breathed high levels of 2-butanone for a short time became unconscious and died Jan 21, 2015....

You've uncovered a secondary market for the stuff. Pest control!