2017 4X4 2500 144 High Roof Lithium Based Stone Grey

[Backcountryguy]

arctictraveller's post seems like a great segue into this topic, thanks much.


After the oil change I was having a chat with John Brindle and he suggested a quick drain plug. There are many out there, I bought both the NO SPILL and FEMCO valves for the next oil change. They are relatively cheap and I wanted to see which one I liked best. They have both quick connect/disconnect and screw on fittings.


In addition I bought the OEM copper crush rings for the drain plug, but each valve came with it's own gasket.


The operation is simple, pictures show the concept when the drain hose is either snapped on (quick connect/disconnect) or screwed on. In addition, each plug has a cap which screws on in order to keep dirt, grit, etc out of the plug openings.


Next year when I change the oil I'll install one and post pictures of the change-out.

[Backcountryguy]

This has been a great addition. We originally thought we would only need this for our long trip up into Alaska and our newly planned trip across Canada.


I find I use it all the time. I consider 15mpg to be my marker for MPG. With the aux tank, we have a combined 44.5 gal diesel when topped off. That is roughly a 650 mile range. If we are tooling around on a back road somewhere and the main tank is getting towards 1/4 full, I don't have to worry about it. I'm sure if I didn't have the tank all would be well, it's just a matter of planning. But having 44.5 gallons of fuel at each top-off really takes the need for a fuel detour out of the equation for us, especially in remote parts of British Columbia, Montana, and Wyoming.


Our tank is aluminized steel. I originally specified stainless but Aerotank is making all their tanks so far in aluminized steel. Fitz is going for a stainless tank and it will be interesting to see how that turns out.


The install by Agile, as in all their work, was stellar. As part of this install John had the D5 exhaust hose moved. In one of the pictures you'll see the original, Sportsmobile location of the exhaust by the fill, followed by a picture of the fill after the D5 exhaust hose was moved. The new location is at the back of the van. My opinion is the new location is a better placement for the termination.


As part of this, if you decide to add this to your build, you need to let Sportsmobile know to keep the drivers side of the van unencumbered underneath. I believe this usually the spot where the house batteries are located. Due to our lithium batteries, our batteries are located in the van, underneath the drivers side couch.


I was also concerned about where the attachment bolts would come up into the van, but in our build it worked out great. the forward bolt is located underneath the tall, narrow, sliding pantry just behind the drivers seat. The aft bolt is located in the porta-potti compartment, just forward of the passengers side couch. It worked out very well.


The tank level gauge and transfer timer switch only work with the key in the ignition and clicked over to either start or power to show main tank level and dash lights on. A great safety feature to keep me honest on transferring fuel. So in the picture shown the gauge shows MT when in fact it isn't. Having the switch to pump fuel as a timer switch is an added safety feature.


I carry a spare transfer pump and two spare filters aboard.

[Backcountryguy]

This seems like a good place to talk about the D5 reroute.


If I was building from scratch, knowing what I know now, I'd have Sportsmobile route to this location. It seems a slightly better location as far as collecting road dirt, muck, etc. We'll see how it does in the winter with snow coming up.


John Brindle took the lead on this completely and as usual did a great job. The attached pics show the run a bit, the new exhaust terminates all the way aft on the van, port side.

[Backcountryguy]

The wheels and tires make a nice addition for unimproved roads. I don't know that I would need anything larger. In fact 265's would most likely be sufficient for our use.


The Roambuilt wheels do not require spacers on the Agile RIP. They also have a separate air-down stem which bypasses the TPMS. That said, it's pretty easy to reset the TPMS in the Sprinter and although this feature is "nice to have" it isn't really required.


The wheels are pricey. I am still happy we went with them. Great rims built for Sprinters by a reputable outfitter in the US.

[eradikate]

Enjoying all the really useful info on your build and looking forward to how things work in the snow and cold.
On another note, you mentioned your yacht cushion/fabric outfitter when we were discussing screens. I will attempt to attach a photo of a rear door canopy/awning prototype that I saw on the Sprinter Source forum. Based on your usage so far, do you think something like this would be useful and if so, do you think your fabric place would be able to make one? For a price, of course. I thought it might be nice for keeping rain out when you’re sleeping with the doors open or with an additional piece of material, maybe a good rear shower enclosure when there are a few people around.

[Backcountryguy]

Originally Posted by eradikate

Enjoying all the really useful info on your build and looking forward to how things work in the snow and cold.
On another note, you mentioned your yacht cushion/fabric outfitter when we were discussing screens. I will attempt to attach a photo of a rear door canopy/awning prototype that I saw on the Sprinter Source forum. Based on your usage so far, do you think something like this would be useful and if so, do you think your fabric place would be able to make one? For a price, of course. I thought it might be nice for keeping rain out when you’re sleeping with the doors open or with an additional piece of material, maybe a good rear shower enclosure when there are a few people around.

That's a great idea Kate. Always looking for ways to spend money on the van...


I'll approach this with my canvas guy when I get home.

[TomH]

Eradikate,

I have seen some of the old Econoline SMBs with those things, but there was a panel down the back of it which in effect turned it into a privacy room in which you could use the exterior shower hose with some privacy. The person needs to wear sandals or similar. The panel had a zipper down the middle.

Tom

[Backcountryguy]

Originally Posted by TomH

Eradikate,

I have seen some of the old Econoline SMBs with those things, but there was a panel down the back of it which in effect turned it into a privacy room in which you could use the exterior shower hose with some privacy. The person needs to wear sandals or similar. The panel had a zipper down the middle.

Tom

I think we would tend to just need what would be in effect an awning for rain.


In our 95 days together in the van this past spring & summer (108 for me), Alison and I did not once use the outdoor shower.


When we are in remote areas boondocking we used lakes and streams with biodegradable and phosphate free soap, much as we do when backpacking and climbing.


We stayed in an RV park twice IOT use laundry facilities and for general cleanup, and we showered their both times.


Quite a few of the State Park campgrounds throughout the NW have shower facilities. The British Columbia parks frequently have shower facilities as well.


For winter use at ski resorts we'll tend to use their indoor facilities.

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Backcountryguy

In our 95 days together in the van this past spring & summer (108 for me), Alison and I did not once use the outdoor shower.

Now that’s using the van! We have had Flint for two years last month and we are at 117 nights. I agree with everything Alex said, but I will add that I am still very glad that we have the exterior shower. I can wash my hair inside in the sink, and have done so often, but one of these days that won’t be enough and outside I’ll go. We do not travel with dogs, but I can see that the outside shower would be a must for them. And as for the privacy, not important to me but could be for others.

We wouldn’t use the awning shown, but we seldom open up the back doors. That’s one of the reasons we went with a pop top, up it goes if we want to bring the outside in!

[Backcountryguy]

Another example of Agile's excellent work. The install looks great on the original factory bumper. It does interfere with the parktronic sensors, but those are also inoperative with the Aluminess rear bumper. If you want the complete clean factory suite of safety features you'll need to leave both factory bumpers unencumbered.


The main reason for the winch is winter use. We will be going up a few snow covered logging roads. Probably not as adventurous as my 4Runner, but up a few remote roads for a bit of winter backcountry fun. I've found the winch useful on occasions if the vehicle somehow gets out of the snow ruts in the road and tires spin. I carry a shovel, sand, and traction mats. However, in the past I've found the WARN winch useful for getting a bit of purchase to get the truck back into the set snow tracks. Just an added bit of forward pull seems to help quite a bit to get back in the tracks. The idea is tension on the winch line wrapped around a tree with a bit of gas, and up and into the tracks.


To be clear, the way this winch is installed you definitely DO NOT want to put a huge load on it. It would probably rip the front bumper right off the vehicle and you could damage the frame. That isn't our intention. For instance, there is no way I'd use this winch to try and get a vehicle up onto the road if it was off and needed an assist or load it to it's rating for any reason.


We used it once this summer: We pulled a small log off a logging road in the Gallatin National Forest. On spring and early summer trips, before I know the roads have all been cleared, I carry a small chainsaw. I cut the log into smaller sections and then used the winch to pull the smaller sections out of the way.