Fitz’ 2016 Sprinter 4x4 RB 150S Build

[daveb]

Originally Posted by Dawghandler

I don't think it was the Ranger "imposing their own rules" because ALL of them said it and gave me links to where it states that all vehicles over 6,000 lbs are REQUIRED to have chains on.

Well it's one way to discourage people visiting the park To tell the truth I've never been asked to install chains there, only if I was locked in 4x4.

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by Dawghandler

I don't think it was the Ranger "imposing their own rules" because ALL of them said it and gave me links to where it states that all vehicles over 6,000 lbs are REQUIRED to have chains on.

https://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/chains.htm

Yosemite Road Conditions - Yosemite News - YosemiteNews.net (It's listed in the R-3 section)

When Do You Need Chains In Yosemite? | Sierra News Online

Fitz posted links to the same requirement in post 232.

But for the R-3 section, it differentiates that "Chains are required on all vehicles, no exceptions" and "Link steel chains are required for vehicles over 6,000 pounds (6,500 pounds for four wheel drive vehicles). Cable-type tire chains are acceptable on lighter vehicles." So you were not turned away because of the weight of your vehicle, just that you didn't have traction control devices of any kind that fit. You would have needed cables or chains regardless of your vehicle weight.

[Dawghandler]

Yes, we were turned away because we did not have traction control. What was surprising is we were stopped because we didn't have them on the vehicle in R1 conditions. We were not aware that if your 4x4 vehicle is over 6,000 lbs you are required to put them on in ALL conditions (R1, R2 and R3).

They don't stop every vehicle to make sure you have chains that fit prior to entering the park. They ask you if you have chains, if you say yes you get to proceed....they don't stop you to make sure the chains you have fit. They asked us, we said yes but we were stopped because we had a vehicle that was over 6,000 lbs which require chains be ON the tires in all R1, R2 and R3 conditions.

On the day we went the conditions were R1. They were letting cars through without chains on their tires. They had them in the vehicle but were not required to put them on.

We have snow tires but were still required to put chains on in R1 conditions because the vehicle was over 6,000 lbs.

When Do You Need Chains In Yosemite? | Sierra News Online

Yosemite National Park imposes and posts the following restrictions depending on conditions –

R-1: Chains are required on all vehicles except passenger vehicles and light-duty trucks under 6,000 pounds gross weight and equipped with snow tires on at least two drive wheels. Chains must be carried by vehicles using snow tires. All vehicles towing trailers must have chains on one drive axle. Trailers with brakes must have chains on at least one axle.

R-2: Chains are required on all vehicles except four-wheel-drive vehicles under 6,500 pounds gross weight and equipped with snow tires on all four wheels. Chains for one set of drive wheels must be carried by four wheel-drive vehicles using snow tires. 4×4’s over 6500 lbs MUST ‘chain up’ – (examples depending on equipment – H1 Hummers, Expeditions, some one ton dually pickups, etc.)

R-3: Chains are required on all vehicles without exception. (There is no such thing as “an exempt vehicle”)
--

I have been driving 4x4s in the snow for over 30 years and have never been stopped and told I couldn't proceed in R1 and R2 conditions unless I had chains on my tires. As a result of this experience I learned that's because my vehicles were all under 6,000 lbs.

This was just a post to let people know that if your vehicle is over 6,000 lbs (which most SMBs are) and you're planning on traveling through Yosemite during winter months, you will be required to put chains on regardless if its R1, R2 or R3 conditions. You will be required to put on chains at times when other vehicles do not. I posted my experience because several other SMB owners said they were not aware of that requirement. The experience prompted me to look up the actual requirements.

[Christopher Thwaites]

How did they know your vehicle was over 6,000lbs.?

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Dawghandler

R-2: Chains are required on all vehicles except four-wheel-drive vehicles under 6,500 pounds gross weight and equipped with snow tires on all four wheels. Chains for one set of drive wheels must be carried by four wheel-drive vehicles using snow tires. 4×4’s over 6500 lbs MUST ‘chain up’ – (examples depending on equipment – H1 Hummers, Expeditions, some one ton dually pickups, etc.).

Chris,

I'm willing to give the Rangers the benefit of the doubt. If their guidance document is good enough to list the examples shown above, then I assume their training is good enough to inform them that a built-out van will weigh in excess of the weight limit for chains. Better pick up a set!

Also, keep in mind that it is only 60 miles from Fresno to Yosemite. A SMB in Yosemite is not a strange thing to see!

[Christopher Thwaites]

Always do. Just curious if it was a judgement call or based on actual data. My van isn't finished but it may not hit the 6500# mark when it is. It weighed 5800# at the 50% build mark. I wouldn't argue the point at any rate. Ranger says chain up. I will.

[Fitz]

Post 207, Front Table Update

I am very pleased to report that the front table I added is working MUCH better than anticipated! It swings around into various position very easily and after being on the road with it for a week I can't imagine being without it! It works great to swing next to the counter for extra space when preparing dinner and it is even better as a desk with the front seat rotated and facing the rear. The last few days has seen us at several rock shows (Laura's thing, not mine, but I learned long ago the wisdom of Happy Wife, Happy Life) thus I have been working remotely while she has been beating up the dealers looking for those "special" deals!





We have a 50 layout and I have noticed that we both now want the rotated passenger seat with the table next to it as our first seating choice when sitting down for the evening. It's a definite keeper!

[Fitz]

Sprinter High Idle Option

This has been a different sort of trip for us. We typically are "on the go" with lots of miles, and lots of time for the house battery (single 4D) to charge between stops. This time we find ourselves in the same spot for a couple of days on end (did I say it before, not typical for us) and thus I find myself paying much more attention to the house battery. In addition, Arizona at the moment is cool, wet and windy, thus the solar gain is down and the Espar heater use is up.

There has been a lot written on the high-speed Sprinter diesel engine and the fact that it doesn't like to idle for long durations. Looking to the 2016 Sprinter Manual, it is fairly silent on the matter. Here is the only thing I could find...



This subject is totally ignored when you look to page 154 of the manual and read all about the ADR - Working Speed Governor - (why don't they just call it the High Speed Idle? It sure would be a lot easier to find...) There are good directions to be found here on how to turn on and adjust the engine speed, but nothing on where to set the RPM for maximum output and best engine performance...

For this the best thing I have been able to find so far is on the SMB webpage. I realize they are speaking about using the AC, but the concept is the same.



Unless someone replies with something better, I have adopted 1,500 RPM for a maximum of 30 minutes as my use case for the High Idle Option. I don't know how many days in a row I would be willing to do that before starting the van and running it up to highway speed, for this trip 3 days sitting in one place has been our longest in any one spot and I am fine with doing it for that long.

I would appreciate any and all comments on this subject, as it is one we can all learn from.

[michaelf]

Hey Tim, no comments on the idle...but questions about your battery levels and consumption. You have 2 x 100W panels and the standard 200Ah battery, correct? Guessing your draw is the 'normal stuff' like the fridge, lights, laptops/phones, the Espar fan, and water pump. What is the daily battery draw vs the regen from the panels you've been experiencing on this trip? We'll often be using our van like you are on this trip.

I'm doing the 2 x 100W panels + considering the portable 80W panel. With the kids and the constant fridge use, tablets being used, stereo running, etc...just trying to get a real world idea if I'm going overkill on the panels (or will need a 2nd battery). I'm assuming we'll be getting about the same sun exposure, even in summer in the Sierras, while camping in the shade of the pine trees. I'm not a math guy, can rewire a house, but get easily confused on solar/house battery consumption, water pump draw, etc. Any suggestions or advice for my build would be greatly appreciated! TIA

[Wrinkledpants]

Originally Posted by Fitz

Sprinter High Idle Option

This has been a different sort of trip for us. We typically are "on the go" with lots of miles, and lots of time for the house battery (single 4D) to charge between stops. This time we find ourselves in the same spot for a couple of days on end (did I say it before, not typical for us) and thus I find myself paying much more attention to the house battery. In addition, Arizona at the moment is cool, wet and windy, thus the solar gain is down and the Espar heater use is up.

There has been a lot written on the high-speed Sprinter diesel engine and the fact that it doesn't like to idle for long durations. Looking to the 2016 Sprinter Manual, it is fairly silent on the matter. Here is the only thing I could find...



This subject is totally ignored when you look to page 154 of the manual and read all about the ADR - Working Speed Governor - (why don't they just call it the High Speed Idle? It sure would be a lot easier to find...) There are good directions to be found here on how to turn on and adjust the engine speed, but nothing on where to set the RPM for maximum output and best engine performance...

For this the best thing I have been able to find so far is on the SMB webpage. I realize they are speaking about using the AC, but the concept is the same.



Unless someone replies with something better, I have adopted 1,500 RPM for a maximum of 30 minutes as my use case for the High Idle Option. I don't know how many days in a row I would be willing to do that before starting the van and running it up to highway speed, for this trip 3 days sitting in one place has been our longest in any one spot and I am fine with doing it for that long.

I would appreciate any and all comments on this subject, as it is one we can all learn from.

High-idle is definitely preferred over idling. You get more oil flow to the heads and have excess load available to run the necessary emissions crap. If you have a block heater, using that to get up to operating temp will help with wear and emissions. You can wire up a simple switch to trick the front temp sensor into thinking it's below 40 degrees so you can use the pre-heat function.

I remember reading somewhere from MB (can't remember if it was a white paper or something) that said an hour of high-idle and you'll want to drive for 45 minutes for the emissions system. For my use, I'll be ok putting on 2 hours total at high-idle before putting on some highway miles. Like you, it will be rare that I need to have high-idle for that long, so I'm ok with the tradeoffs.

If you need to do high-idle for more than an hour, and you're doing that a few times a year, I would look into a second battery. Otherwise, high-idle at less than an hour, and doing that even routinely, is not likely hurting anything. Your van is heavy enough, and you live where the hills are steep enough, that you'll see plenty of miles in high-load and high-temp situations, which is good for the emissions system.