Sink Drain Pipe Failure in New SMB

[arctictraveller]

Originally Posted by Orv

. A threaded nipple seems like a reasonable choice, given that you can't glue those dissimilar types of plastic, but it's hard to see why it would break unless it was under some kind of stress.

Sometimes the threads are too deep, so the last thread is a weak point. I've seen several nipples break there.

[Orv]

Makes sense, that would be a stress concentration.

[rolorun]

Originally Posted by barrel47

We have a 3 month old SMB Sprinter build. Noticed a minor flood and discovered the drain pipe from the sink to the gray water tank had failed. It appears that two pipes were improperly connected. YouTube video link below showing the failure. Looking for any guidance on whether this looks like a poor install or something else. Thanks


https://youtu.be/Y_gaMvo8jdE

I had the same problem on my new SM build plus other plumbing issues as well. I asked them to send me a new pea trap to replace the old one. I am also very cognizant to empty gray H20 tank often. Make sure to check all your plumbing fittings, none of mine were tightened. Plus debris was left in my gray tank which didnt allow it to drain properly. Check hoses and fittings regularly for moisture/leaks.

[Vanimal]

Wow SMB just keeps getting better!
After building several trailers and interiors I switched all connectors to flexible hose clamped connections. This solved vibration breaks and any banging of loose items. You'd think SMB would have done the same but like some major manufacturers, the bottom line is more important than quality work. Black plastic is way cheaper than two stainless hose clamps and a piece of flex hose. Multiply the cost of the alternative that would stretch the budget, not to mention the labor to cut the flex line tighten the two clamps.

[newoldguy]

I have a 2014 travel trailer that I bought new. It had many drain leaks that I had to fix. A few years down the road and the toilet pressure line started leaking due to a defective pressure reducer at the water feed at the park.


Many RV owner have experienced lack luster quality issues on their rigs. Good luck.

[Orv]

My '90 has flexible hose for the sink drain line. I don't know if it's original or was someone's fix later, but it works fine. Since drain lines aren't under pressure it doesn't even need much clamping. I do like seeing something more substantial for supply lines, though.

[Vanimal]

The key to avoiding pressure line leaks is definitely a regulator. City lines may differ and also surge. I had the same occur when I hooked up once forgetting the regulator.

[newoldguy]

Originally Posted by Orv

My '90 has flexible hose for the sink drain line. I don't know if it's original or was someone's fix later, but it works fine. Since drain lines aren't under pressure it doesn't even need much clamping. I do like seeing something more substantial for supply lines, though.

Concerning my prior post, the toilet supply line was a pex line directly to the toilet valve. It was a cheap way of installing the water feed. The hot water tank and toilet were fed off of one pex line (both are at the same corner of the trailer) so I installed a splitter with two 1/4 turn shut off valves, one for each unit. I also installed a normal flexible water feed hose to the toilet with some pex adapters for the job. The RV shop had all the required fittings.


Concerning drain lines, I can tell you water is so thin, that any slight crack or misalignment of piping will cause a leak, even in drain pipes. I've fought two suck leaks in my condo. It took forever to stop the leaks, even without any pressure.

[newoldguy]

Originally Posted by Vanimal

The key to avoiding pressure line leaks is definitely a regulator. City lines may differ and also surge. I had the same occur when I hooked up once forgetting the regulator.

My regulator actually failed. The park's water pressure was 60 pounds and the regulator didn't reduce it to 40. I now have a four way brass garden hose valve that I found at Harbor Freight which I attach to the park's water feed. Each of the four supply attachments has a shut off. I have a regulator on one for the trailer's city water supply. The second has a hose to the black tank flush valve. The third has a regular water pressure gauge. The fourth is available to fill buckets or whatever.


I also now carry a spare regulator. I can't see how the first regulator failed as it doesn't look like it has any moving parts or anything that should wear out.

[VocalVirgo]

Originally Posted by barrel47

I spoke with Peter from SMB this morning. He explained that there is a threaded nipple from the tank side to the ABS. He believes this must have been defective in some way. Given the uncertainty about the complexity of repair (whether the tank needs to be removed, or not), I will bring it to SMB-W for the work. I will report back when I learn the true nature of of the failure and also what it took to repair in the event anyone else faces this. Thanks for all the help!

I’m sorry this happened. Brand new and this situation can be SO frustrating.
But listen, everyone knows I haven’t been shy about the terrible job they did on my 2017 van… And every answer to every failure included an excuse of some kind. I got “Must have been a faulty part” to “This has never happened” to “I don’t know why it’s this way”. I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again, Peter is very very nice. And he will make you feel comfortable. But he’s not the one who makes the decisions, so no matter what he says he will try and do for you, be present and make sure they do right by you. I REALLY liked Peter, I felt like he was going to bat for me. But in the end, he just ended up being a poor messenger telling me not to come back. So…

May I please give you some advice… Take pictures of every single thing that you can, I know you’ve already taken video and that’s great. But also, walk back there every 10 to 15 minutes and take pictures of what they’re doing. Their mantra is “We have nothing to hide you are welcome back here anytime“, so take them up on that offer and do so. You may see them replacing stuff that they will never tell you got damaged or, even worse, you may see them (or stop them from) covering up stuff that is damaged because it is way too involved to replace it. You don’t want them putting down new rubber flooring over plywood that has gotten wet along the edges. You don’t want the damage being Bandaid’d when it should be repaired or replaced.
When I had a small mechanical issue with my new (non-SMB) van (Ram/Fiat Chrysler), I hung out as far as customers were allowed, in the bay, while they performed the work on my van. And I took pictures. I feel that as consumers we have to take a step up, for ourselves, because sometimes the “companies” will cut corners or skip steps or just Bandaid things. As consumers we have to speak up too. So, be very present when you have the repairs done.
And if God forbid, you have issues with the chassis, (the Sprinter chassis) for any reason, do the same thing. Be right there, as close as you can be while they are conducting repairs at the Mercedes dealership.

PS: Don’t be surprised if they ask you/pressure you into taking that video off of YouTube and taking this post down from this forum. There’s a slight chance they will offer to do a “complete repair“ if you do them the favor and take this post and that video down. They did that to me, and when I said no, that was the first and only push back they needed to start being terrible to me. That was three days after I picked up my van, LOL. Do not let that happen to you.
And once you get the van back and everything is absolutely perfect, put it behind you and move forward and enjoy the hell out of your new van. You deserve it.