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Old 08-01-2014, 06:06 PM   #1
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2012 E-150 passenger cargo doors

I have 2012 E-150 cargo van that I purchased in 2013. The passenger side 60/40 cargo doors have no windows and I would like to add windows to these doors.

I found some OEM take off doors for $499.

Easy = buy take off doors, or pay local body shop to cut/install OEM type windows?
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Old 08-01-2014, 07:00 PM   #2
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Re: 2012 E-150 passenger cargo doors

I do not think non-window doors have the sheet metal recess for OEM windows?? So just cutting the outer metal is not going to give you an OEM look persay.

Might be wrong..,., Would not be the first or last time!!
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Old 08-02-2014, 05:33 AM   #3
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Re: 2012 E-150 passenger cargo doors

1der you're totally correct---this time anyway! IMHO any aftermarket window looks pretty terrible, something a bit off about them---most likely its that they're not recessed into the door shell but sit proud of the outer surface. They really look like after thoughts or stuck on parts. Completely my opinion, no offense to those who've gone the aftermarket route window wise.

That price on eBay for new take off door is pretty amazing really, especially if they're shipped to you. If they arrive in a different color consider totally stripping them of all hardware before painting then re-assembling after curing. You'd get a much better and longer lasting finish that way.
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Old 08-02-2014, 06:15 AM   #4
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Re: 2012 E-150 passenger cargo doors

Sounds like the new take off doors are the way to go. Doors are off of a 2013 E150 and will be shipped to local truck terminal. Any feedback on how complicated mounting new doors can be? Alignment etc.....Thanks for the input guys
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:02 AM   #5
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Re: 2012 E-150 passenger cargo doors

Most new take-off doors will probably have the hinges still attached--that's good, saves painting a new set etc.

Mounting the shells is pretty straight forward and can be made easier if we know whether the new doors have hinges. Two hex bolts for each hinge where they attach to the body or the door shell, each with a relatively large amount of movement or adjustment to fit the body properly. The wind catch is held in place with Torx drive screws. Save everything you removed because its just a good practice.

With or without hinges already attached doesn't affect the process of properly fitting the doors to the body----for the most part its a trial and error thing. I'd begin by loosening the bottom strike (don't remove the countersunk Torx drive bolts all the way---they hold a threaded plate inside the pinch weld area) and move it towards the center of the van. Remove completely the top strike.

The front-most door might have electrical connections running from the B-Pillar inside the door----they need to be removed and disconnected from inside the B-Pillar. At the minimum you'll have the door pin switch for dome light operation---you'll also remove that wiring harness along with any other harness or connector running inside that door. Once the connection inside the B-Pillar is loose the large rubber boot can be pulled loose from the body, wiring harness and connector coming along too.

Using a removable marker trace around each hinge (door or body) as a place to initially mount new doors. Tighten bolts just snug enough to allow operation but not fully as you may need to move the hinges small amounts before achieving the best fit. Because the doors won't engage the latches you're pretty much free to adjust this rearward door until all three edges closest to the body and the gaps are "perfect". Once you're satisfied with the fit re-install the strikes. Top is fixed in place so nothing special up there. The bottom does have adjustment capability---it will be properly adjusted when its latched the door shell vertically aligns with the body and slightly compresses the door seal.

You want the handle operation to require minimum effort, don't want any sort of hard pulling required or a "spring" outward as the latches release, just a firm hold on the door. Once everything is adjusted make sure the upper and lower latches are fully engaged and don't let the door move in and out when pulling against its edge closest to the center of the door opening.

Smaller door doesn't require as much adjusting etc although it does have to align with the upper and lower body, the rearward door AND the front door too.

Once everything is adjusted and working right tighten the hinge bolts, install the wind catches (grease the slides on these) and remove the double layer of tape. You should now have side door factory windows.

As you get closer and maybe need more info post again and we'll try to add more.

HTH
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:25 AM   #6
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Re: 2012 E-150 passenger cargo doors

Thank you JWA.

The take off doors do have the hinges attached and from the info you have provided it sounds like something I can do on my own. For the price, I am going to get these doors and put them on.
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Old 08-03-2014, 04:10 AM   #7
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Re: 2012 E-150 passenger cargo doors

Way to go Tracker----I'm sure you'll be able to get through this without too much hassle---think of it as a learning experience.

The only real help you'd need or want is extra hands to start the bolts while the doors are temporarily held in place, by you presumably?

Let us know how this proceeds--we're here to help if we can!
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:36 PM   #8
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Re: 2012 E-150 passenger cargo doors

"New", takeoff doors with OEM tinted windows installed. Gone are the windowless cargo doors, 1.5 hours from start to finish and $499.00 for doors and $166.00 for shipping. I have to "tweak" the alignment a little bit but for now the doors open and close very easy, lock works etc... Thanks to all for the solid advice/pointers. Trying to attach a pic but keep getting message that file is to large.
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Old 08-13-2014, 12:52 PM   #9
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Re: 2012 E-150 passenger cargo doors

Nice! You can probably recoup some of that money by selling your old cargo doors, I would think.
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:59 AM   #10
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Re: 2012 E-150 passenger cargo doors

Love to see your photos if they can be resized----posting them first to PhotoBucket et al might help---seems they resize images to fit most forum posting limits.

I know those side windows make driving a bit easier.

Maybe advertise your doors for $300 the pair on Craig's List---you'll get the low ball guys with ridiculous offers but a nice set of damage and rust free door complete with hardware are worth no less than $300.

Thanks for the update!
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