Body stress cracks

[daveb]

Originally Posted by Zeta

I wonder if new or different body mounts would help? Would one go stiffer or softer?

Z

Not a clue. I had actually thought those RS steps would have help stop flex.

[carringb]

Originally Posted by E350

Hey daveb: I just remembered reading one of those Ford van upfitter bulletins that said to disconnect both batteries and the PCM plug before welding on the van.

That is correct, as well as the instrument cluster and restraint module.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q114.pdf

[daveb]

Originally Posted by carringb

That is correct, as well as the instrument cluster and restraint module.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas/non-html/Q114.pdf

I'll get em on it. What about the FICM?

I just hope it all stops here. Like my Camero, valves float at high RPM and break springs, add stiffer springs...break retainers, add high strength retainers...break rockers, add rollor rockers...studs pull out, add screw in studs...bend push rods, add guide plates and higher strength push rods. Never friggin ends.

[twogone]

awww man
Keep us posted on this please

[rallypanam]

Originally Posted by daveb

I just hope it all stops here. Like my Camero, valves float at high RPM and break springs, add stiffer springs...break retainers, add high strength retainers...break rockers, add rollor rockers...studs pull out, add screw in studs...bend push rods, add guide plates and higher strength push rods. Never friggin ends.

Yeah, I'd be tempted to just tack them back together and keep a close eye on them. If you reinforce those and the stress moves somewhere else.. Will you see it? Will it be in a worse place?

[Ford_6L_E350]

Originally Posted by daveb

I just hope it all stops here. Like my Camero, valves float at high RPM and break springs, add stiffer springs...break retainers, add high strength retainers...break rockers, add rollor rockers...studs pull out, add screw in studs...bend push rods, add guide plates and higher strength push rods. Never friggin ends.

Dave, keep it below 6500 rpm and you won't have so many valve train issues. You aren't racing Mustangs, are you?

Mike

[daveb]

OK from what was explained to me that there are more than just those items that should be removed and they have some sort of grounding device that protects all the electronics rather than disconnecting them???

[E350]

daveb: Hopefully carringb will chime in here. But from my reading of the bulletin which carringb posted, there is no shortcut to disconnecting those items. No grounding strap which will suffice from disconnecting them. This is one of those times when the little voice in my head says "Don't take short cuts."

Can the body shop or someone else nearby do the welding in your driveway after you have disconnected those connectors, because it will take time to disconnect them and between you and me I don't trust anyone to manhandle those connectors, because I have broken a few in my past.

If not, email the bulletin to the body shop and make sure they are willing to take responsibility of harm to those components.

BTW any one of those components will exceed the money which the body shop is likely charging you.

Hopefully I am wrong (and if so please accept my apologies, my concern comes from a good place) and carringb can point you to a shortcut.

[rallypanam]

Originally Posted by daveb

OK from what was explained to me that there are more than just those items that should be removed and they have some sort of grounding device that protects all the electronics rather than disconnecting them???

I'm a little laissez-faire about these things, so don't take my word for it, but when I first started welding on vehicles I heard you absolutely had to disconnect batteries and everything. Then I forgot a few times and saw no adverse affect, and so said the hell with it and have welded dozens of times on Ford F350s and E350s.

I've never seen any issues.. Has anyone seen any problems firsthand?

[daveb]

Well better safe than sorry. It sounded like the body shop pulled the negative side of the battery but left the positive on. I did some searching and like here, there seems to be a bit of controversy over the matter. I don't want to call the guy out about it but will stress my point. I teach high voltage stray voltage at work and totally understand how that works and it don't seem much different even to the point of disconnecting more than what was posted about. All I need is a bunch of sh!t to go bad

And Mike 6500...really?