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02-22-2018, 10:35 PM
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#11
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Sonoma County
Posts: 790
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gnty
We've done it a number of times. As long as you have access to the body bolts (many camper conversions have a sub floor and cabinets covering them) its pretty slick.
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Have you always put the original body back on? Or have you ever done a body swap?
Would really like to do the latter with my '99 7.3 but I've read a lot of cautionary tales that it's harder than one might think.
__________________
2003 Astro AWD
2005 Tacoma Access cab 4x4
1999 E350 RB 7.3 "Al B. Tross" aka "Exxon Valdez"
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02-23-2018, 05:09 AM
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#12
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SteelheadJones
Have you always put the original body back on? Or have you ever done a body swap?
Would really like to do the latter with my '99 7.3 but I've read a lot of cautionary tales that it's harder than one might think.
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Here's one guy whose done as you're contemplating: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...on-a-99-a.html
The biggest issue is having the shop and tools to do this safely. While its not rocket science it's very useful if you have quite a bit of experience with the Ford E-Series in general, most specifically how the power train management components work together.
The link above takes one from the beginning to a finished swap, most every potential issue or problem discovered and solved along the way.
HTH
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11-13-2018, 09:01 AM
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#13
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 110
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I'm contemplating pulling the body so that I have full access to the frame for some restoration work.
Any more info on this out there, or more pictures? How about lifting points for the body? How high do you need to lift it to get the roller chassis out?
__________________
2000 Ford 7.3L EB Sportsmobile w/ UJOR
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11-13-2018, 12:44 PM
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#14
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 10,245
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Haven't done it but contemplated it on my last van. People who have say it's very difficult. You'll break most of the body bolts removing or have to cut them if there is any rust at all. Chris at Ujoint has done it many times and he talked me out of it.
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11-13-2018, 02:35 PM
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#15
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Texas
Posts: 110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 86Scotty
Haven't done it but contemplated it on my last van. People who have say it's very difficult. You'll break most of the body bolts removing or have to cut them if there is any rust at all. Chris at Ujoint has done it many times and he talked me out of it.
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Yes I'm sure it is a difficult project, it doesn't seem easy.
I'm not sure there is any way around it given how much work I need to do to the underbody. On the bright side, all my body mounts are completely shot too, so I'll be breaking all of those bolts free either way. I'm also pulling the water/greywater/propane/ac out for the other interior work, and the added complication of lifting the body off with these systems in place is a big reason why this seems way more difficult on a SMB than a cargo van.
I'm heavily considering paying a professional for this step of the rebuild, but there are so many other projects that I could knock out with the body off.
__________________
2000 Ford 7.3L EB Sportsmobile w/ UJOR
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11-13-2018, 05:04 PM
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#16
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 1,258
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I've been part of pulling 3 bodies off/on...
it can be done quickly and rather easy when you are working with someone who has done a bunch-knowledge.
I wouldn't recommend for the shady tree mechanics, while some can getrdone, some will say mercy.
There is a surprising amount of frame/bosy access if you drop the fuel tank and trans. While that sucks, sucks less than a body removal. This can be handled by many.
__________________
Rob.
Current:
2001 E350 PSD w/ a bunch of stuff.
And had three other E350s...
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11-13-2018, 08:38 PM
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#17
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 10,245
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That's what I wound up doing. I pulled everything to clean up the frame while doing a 4wd conversion, so tranny, front axle and all front suspension, rear axle and all rear suspension, tank, entire exhaust and shields, etc. etc. I'm getting tired thinking about it.
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11-13-2018, 09:15 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Newberg, OR
Posts: 1,385
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When I pulled the body for the Cummins swap, 4 of the 14 body bolts seized and had to be cut. Keep in mind the van is a '13 with less than 23k miles at the time. Body bolts seem to rust quickly plus they're coated with thread locker.
All in all, it's not that bad with a two post lift. Working mostly by myself, I had the body off in a day. No interior makes the whole process much easier.
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11-14-2018, 12:17 AM
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#19
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 1,061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyNick
I found this link on another website and though you'd find it interesting.
It shows the body being removed from a Ford van for engine work.
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The original Diesel Technician Society website is gone, but I happened to make a copy of that page, if anyone still wants to see... forddoctorsdts.com/photographs/index8. Key photos:
-- Geoff
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