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06-25-2017, 11:50 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arctictraveller
A technique I have used in the past on boats involves using a blower of the type used to dry wet carpet, remove smoke from structure fires, ventilate tanks and manholes, or just provide a ton of ventilation. They come in both round and rectangular shapes, normally have large hoses attached, and can be rented from many rental shops. Using cardboard and tape, (blue painters tape will release easily after you finish) fabricate a piece that fits a window, with a cut out for the discharge hose. Using more tape or cardboard, cover all obvous places where air could escape, like dash vents, heater vents etc. The idea is to pressurize the interior of the van, then using a spray bottle with soapy water, spray suspected leak areas and look for bubbles.
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That's all well and good however the location of a leak below the W/S and inboard of the fender is hidden well enough that won't work. Adding soap to the mix maybe works to find a leak but if any of it seeps into the leak its presence would possibly prevent any sealant from adhering to the surfaces surrounding the leaking seam or hole.
A van-sized vehicle with so much surface area to cover introducing positive pressure as described makes for a lot more work--think of the 100's of square inches where it can leak out. Add in the numerous other unknown or unseen areas that would leak and this becomes very difficult to do. I've seen this done on big trucks with about 90% less spaces and areas for the positive pressure to escape---and its still no better than waiting and watching for water to leak inside, simulated rainfall so to speak.
Not bashing your idea ArcticTraveller but in this case I wouldn't recommend it.
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06-26-2017, 11:13 AM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: San Juans
Posts: 23
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I believe I have the same problem as Annie-o and was just getting ready to tackle removal of my driver side front fender when I read this thread. JWA what did you use to seal the body seam?
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06-26-2017, 02:01 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sscott3d
I believe I have the same problem as Annie-o and was just getting ready to tackle removal of my driver side front fender when I read this thread. JWA what did you use to seal the body seam?
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We need to wake that girl up---she's usually chimed in by now!
I've not done this myself however having once been in the body shop biz I'd use NOTHING but a 3M product. They have a few different types of seam sealer, you'd be looking for a semi-flexible type.
Do be sure to thoroughly clean all surrounding surfaces according to 3M's recommendations before applying the sealer.
If you do go ahead with this SScott please take tons of photos and document this for us----will be VERY helpful in the future I'm sure.
Thanks
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07-02-2017, 08:21 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 140
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Well my leak isn't from the windshield. Or if it is there is also a leak below it as well. Are their any pictures of where Annie-O actually had the problem. It's been impossibly hard to nail down just where the problem is. When I let the hose pour directly into the square opening circled in the pic, it is leaking inside the van up above what I'm guessing is the PCM connection, further up than I can get the padding off to see. It looks like even if I took the fender off I couldn't get into that area though. Anybody have any insights?
__________________
David
2003 E350 | 7.3PSD | U-Joint 6" - The Slow Build
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07-02-2017, 08:46 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,774
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Drizzt you might want to remove the plastic cowl cover then run a much smaller controlled stream of water over your suspected area.
The cowl cover is held in place with about 7 Phillips drive screws each side, remove wiper arms the hood seal and disconnect or lay aside the right side cowl cover wiper washer hose.
Annie never told me the exact spot it was leaking, not sure she had/has images of the area her guy suggested needed resealed.
If you're truly motivated to find this leak possibly remove the driver's seat, peel back the floor mat and crawl under that side of the dash board and wait for the leak to show itself. Possibly peel back that cardboard padding/insulation against the vertical part of the toe kick area--its possible the leak is running behind that as well.
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07-03-2017, 07:39 AM
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#26
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: San Juans
Posts: 23
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After replacing the windshield and van still leaking. I thought the main wire connectors going though the fire wall where the culprit. The seals looked baked and shriveled (maybe too much heat from my 6.0L). But after going back 3x and finally making my own gaskets I'm pretty sure they are't the problem. From the inside it's almost impossible to see the fire wall. I've taken the fuse box loose and pried back the insulating mat but still can't see much. I was hoping Annie-o would chime in before I pulled my fender. This leak is holding up my interior build out which is already incredibly slow.
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07-03-2017, 08:09 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA
If you're truly motivated to find this leak possibly remove the driver's seat, peel back the floor mat and crawl under that side of the dash board and wait for the leak to show itself. Possibly peel back that cardboard padding/insulation against the vertical part of the toe kick area--its possible the leak is running behind that as well.
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I did do that. It's leaking behind the padding on the inside of the van and is coming from above and between the hood cable grommet and the PCM connection, higher than I was able to peel the padding back without removing dash parts.
__________________
David
2003 E350 | 7.3PSD | U-Joint 6" - The Slow Build
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07-03-2017, 08:10 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sscott3d
From the inside it's almost impossible to see the fire wall. I've taken the fuse box loose and pried back the insulating mat but still can't see much.
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That ain't no lie! And my back is definitely pissed at me for the gymnastics trying to see up in there yesterday.
__________________
David
2003 E350 | 7.3PSD | U-Joint 6" - The Slow Build
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07-03-2017, 09:03 AM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Posts: 3,774
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sscott3d
I was hoping Annie-o would chime in before I pulled my fender. This leak is holding up my interior build out which is already incredibly slow.
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Someone should PM her----she does get notifications of PM's I'm sure
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drizzt
I did do that. It's leaking behind the padding on the inside of the van and is coming from above and between the hood cable grommet and the PCM connection, higher than I was able to peel the padding back without removing dash parts.
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If that leak is that large an issue (understandably) pulling the dash board isn't all that difficult. There are maybe 10 threaded fasteners and a ton of wiring harness connectors to release. Its an extreme measure but if the leak is high enough up on the inner structure that might be the only solution. Same advice for SScott3d.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drizzt
That ain't no lie! And my back is definitely pissed at me for the gymnastics trying to see up in there yesterday.
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Almost anytime I'm working up front one or both a seat will come out, no questions its outta there! That single step makes working up there soooooooooo much easier----first time and you'll be a believer too. Its like climbing out of a washing machine tub onto a ball room dance floor.
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07-03-2017, 01:24 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2014
Posts: 140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA
Someone should PM her----she does get notifications of PM's I'm sure
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I did that this morning to see if she had any insights from when she went through this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA
If that leak is that large an issue (understandably) pulling the dash board isn't all that difficult. There are maybe 10 threaded fasteners and a ton of wiring harness connectors to release. Its an extreme measure but if the leak is high enough up on the inner structure that might be the only solution. Same advice for SScott3d.
Almost anytime I'm working up front one or both a seat will come out, no questions its outta there! That single step makes working up there soooooooooo much easier----first time and you'll be a believer too. Its like climbing out of a washing machine tub onto a ball room dance floor.
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Well, I've struggled with whether it is that big of a deal, but I really don't want the flooring to rot in a vehicle I'm spending this much money on. Then on the other hand, spending this much money on a 14 year old van with almost 300K on the clock is kind of ridiculous...
I'm a pro at ripping out the seats with all the work I've done on this thing by this point! But tackling the dash just seems daunting...
Thanks for all your input JWA, been very helpful!
__________________
David
2003 E350 | 7.3PSD | U-Joint 6" - The Slow Build
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