Removing front shocks.....1993 E250. Seriously Ford?
Alright...perhaps I'm not the best mechanic....but I cannot figure out how to get these shocks out.
This is a stock, e250 suspension setup. I have the top nut/washer/bushing removed as well as the bottom nut/retainer. I have the front end lifted/on jack stands. I cannot see a way to get the shock compressed enough to get the threaded bayonet out of the shock tower. Further, with the bayonet still in the tower there doesn't seem to be enough play to get the bottom off of it's mount.
Do I need to remove the spring as well....in order to get the axle to drop down more and create the needed space?
Re: Removing front shocks.....1993 E250. Seriously Ford?
Sounds like you're fighting the nitrogen pressure in the shock. Get a pry bar between the coil bucket and the top of the shock and you should be able to push it down easily. While the pry bar is still on it, just pull the top of the shock out sideways and Bob's your uncle.The lower bushing will likely take some twisting back and forth as the rubber tends to "glue" itself to the mounting studs over the years.
Re: Removing front shocks.....1993 E250. Seriously Ford?
Wait til you get to the back ones!
Easier way: Remove body from frame. I'm almost not kidding.
Even easier way: Get a bucket and a punch and hammer and pop a hole in the shock relieving all the oil into the bucket. That should make it pretty easy to compress.
Re: Removing front shocks.....1993 E250. Seriously Ford?
For the fronts once the top attachment is handled (no small chore in itself!) removing the lower nut then prying shock off the radius arm stud is "easy", especially if the shock is blown and under no pressure.
Rear shocks are a piece of cake IF you first remove the frame-mounted spare or don't have any storage boxes etc in the space right behind the cross member above the rear axle. The accessibility is stunning.
BTW using Bilstein or any mono-tube shock has major installation/removal advantages because they tend to have wrench flats somewhere along the shaft. We've all fought trying to hold the shaft through the metal shroud only to have it crush and interfere with the removal. Plastic or rubber boots do the same job as the metal shrouds plus allow the wrench flats too---perfect design IMHO.