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Old 07-16-2019, 06:48 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Ben10281 View Post
I drain my tank one of two ways depending on how quickly I need it to drain.

1) Quick and dirty, run the faucet and drain through the sink drain. My water pump Shurflo 2088-403-144 is rated for around 2gpm and I have a 20 gallon fresh water tank. It can easily handle 2 five minute continuous runs without overheating. So I can have my tank drained in about 15 mins or less that way. Now, I don't have a grey water tank so the sink drain simply drains to the ground. If I had a grey water tank those usually have a pretty large drain valve so I would have to drain that as well but those drain pretty quick too.
I thought about doing this, but was afraid I would burn up the pump. I do have a grey water tank, so I'll run straight onto the ground. Worth a try. Thanks!

- Terry

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Old 07-16-2019, 06:53 PM   #12
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As with virtually everything I've ever worked on compressed air is your friend. I would take an air compressor blow hose with the rubber conical end and backflush the valve and line from under the van. There's likely some crud in it. Even fresh water oxidizes and gums up in the lines and especially metal fittings after awhile. Also, I've seen plastic pieces floating around in brand new tanks left over from the manufacturing process. They're going to eventually end up at that valve.

Even if this doesn't totally solve your problem it will most likely help it.

I also considered this and suspected there might be crud. I was thinking about blowing out the system at the end of the season (like with yard sprinkler systems) instead of using that nasty antifreeze.

Thanks.

- Terry
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Old 07-16-2019, 07:31 PM   #13
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I have had many RVs and never used that antifreeze. I can't see how anyone would voluntarily put any extra chemicals in to a water system. I don't care how safe they say it is. Anyway, I always blow my systems out with compressed air. It makes it VERY simple if you decide to take a trip in the winter, just fill and go, then blow it out again when you get home.

Also, many swear by pouring cheap vodka in to the system. I don't know if I could do that but I could pour it in to my system.

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Old 07-17-2019, 08:26 AM   #14
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I have had many RVs and never used that antifreeze. I can't see how anyone would voluntarily put any extra chemicals in to a water system. I don't care how safe they say it is.

I agree, but I will pour about a cup of RV antifreeze into my p-traps.
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Old 07-25-2019, 10:27 AM   #15
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There should be a shuttle drain between fresh water tank and sink at lowest point of line. Open and turn on pump. On mine last 2 SMB the pump blows out thickly and a short drive shakes out residue
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Old 07-25-2019, 10:31 AM   #16
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There should be a shuttle drain between fresh water tank and sink at lowest point of line. Open and turn on pump. On mine last 2 SMB the pump blows out thickly and a short drive shakes out residue
Thanks, dave0718, I'll check that out.

-Terry
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Old 07-25-2019, 01:19 PM   #17
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As with virtually everything I've ever worked on compressed air is your friend. I would take an air compressor blow hose with the rubber conical end and backflush the valve and line from under the van
b5:
Be very careful not to over pressurize the tank though. Just 5psi can create a huge amount of force against the tank walls.
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Old 07-25-2019, 01:42 PM   #18
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Be very careful not to over pressurize the tank though. Just 5psi can create a huge amount of force against the tank walls.
Thanks!

Terry
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Old 07-26-2019, 05:26 AM   #19
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I agree with the other posters that either your overflow is blocked or your drain is blocked, both under the van. Time to get the creeper out and get under the van.
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Old 07-26-2019, 09:01 AM   #20
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I have a walk through design and have water tank on one side and sink and hot water on the other side. So i have at least 3 drains locations for the water system. One is the drain for the tank it self, another is between the fill inlet and the tank. It is important to get this one drained in the winter, just using the tank drain will leave water there, and possibly cause problems. The third drain is on the sink water heater side. When I installed the water heater I replaced the small drain sportsmobile uses with

When trying to flush or clean the system, I generally add some bleach to a half full tank, I will then make sure I run water at the tank until I can tell that the bleached water has made it through the system, both hot and cold. Now it's time to run some errands or such, I like to drive around for about an hour total to let the solution slosh around in the system for a while. I will then drain, by running the water pump and having both hot and cold water open . I also have the tank drain and inlet drain open, since I added a larger drain when installing the water heater I generally leave that closed at this time. Make sure if you have a gray water tank that it is open (This step is important, other wise you may overflow the sink)

I will generally file the system with just fresh water and repeat 2 more times. I may also do a third rinse and this time I will open the drain by the water heater.

For winterizing I generally use air and one of the cheap adapters you can find in any RV shop. This is also the time I check the anode for the water heater, I generally replace that every two years. When that is all done I will turn the bypass valve on the hot water heater, turn off the connections for the outside faucet. If I choose to use the water in the van during the winter, I don't have top worry about these things which are know problem areas in the cold.

Just using the small drain cock for the tank I would think take awhile, it also doesn't flush the rest of your water system. My water pump is 15 years old and going strong, so I have no concerns using the pump.

-greg
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