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Old 09-28-2016, 03:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainBikeRoamer View Post
Is there any "movement still happening" where you can turn that lug nut (on its threads) in/out a little bit....or is it totally frozen in place on that stud?
Can't speak for Joe, but in my experience it just gets harder to move the nut, until it's almost impossible. The stud never moves, it will break before the splines slip.

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Old 09-28-2016, 03:33 PM   #12
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Can't speak for Joe, but in my experience it just gets harder to move the nut, until it's almost impossible. The stud never moves, it will break before the splines slip.
Ah, good point. Forgot that studs are splined as you mentioned and "hammered in" from behind.

Still curious if the nut is "frozen" on the stud, or if it still has some play in it (to turn it in/out a bit), such that *perhaps* the OP could still carefully attempt to grease up the threads and "self tap" the nut back off of the stud....

(forward.....backward......clean threads with rag.....apply more grease......forward.....backward........clean threads with rag, apply more grease.....forward.....backward......)

I guess in that situation, even if the nut eventually came off......the stud would potentially still end up being hosed, and need replacement.....but not necessarily --- ? It has been my understanding that usually the lug nuts are the "softer" of the two metals (on purpose!) so that they're the "sacrificial" lamb, if it comes to one of the two (stud vs. lug nut) stripping out.) Studs are hardened, lug nuts are not.
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Old 09-28-2016, 05:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MountainBikeRoamer View Post
Ah, good point. Forgot that studs are splined as you mentioned and "hammered in" from behind.

Still curious if the nut is "frozen" on the stud, or if it still has some play in it (to turn it in/out a bit), such that *perhaps* the OP could still carefully attempt to grease up the threads and "self tap" the nut back off of the stud....

(forward.....backward......clean threads with rag.....apply more grease......forward.....backward........clean threads with rag, apply more grease.....forward.....backward......)

I guess in that situation, even if the nut eventually came off......the stud would potentially still end up being hosed, and need replacement.....but not necessarily --- ? It has been my understanding that usually the lug nuts are the "softer" of the two metals (on purpose!) so that they're the "sacrificial" lamb, if it comes to one of the two (stud vs. lug nut) stripping out.) Studs are hardened, lug nuts are not.
Sorry folks I was out running errands and picked up a 7/8" deep socket and 18" flex handle socket wrench (non-ratcheting). I'll give it another go in a few minutes.

On my initial try there was still a little movement before I stopped. I get the feeling it will seize up totally and snap the stud, but I'll give the above a try as I work on it.

Thank you all for the feedback.
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:00 PM   #14
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Man, my DeWalt impact wrench just gave up the ghost last night doing some light duty stuff while installing some tube doors on my Bronco.

Checked the warranty and was presently surprised to find it was 3 years. Found that I bought it 7 Sept 2013. Crapped out 27 Sept 16. Missed it by 20 days.

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Old 09-28-2016, 06:25 PM   #15
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Progress.

Cleaned the exposed threads as much as possible. Applied some PB Blaster and using better tools I got the lug nut off. Both nut and stud are damaged. Off to get my camera.
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Old 09-28-2016, 06:40 PM   #16
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What are the groups thoughts on chasing the studs with the proper sized die to clean them up as an alternative to replacing the stud? I have done this in the past but never on lug nut studs.
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:32 PM   #17
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Just replace em. They're cheap! You can probably get the stud out without pulling the hub but that's really not a big deal even if you have to. Any auto parts store will have the 9/16 18 stud you need for about $10. Much less for the lug nut I'm sure.


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Old 09-28-2016, 10:13 PM   #18
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Pics as promised.

Outer edge view of the damaged lug nut. Looks fine from here.



The leading edge of the lug nut is a different story. First 3-4 threads are trashed.





Here's the wheel stud with the wheel still on to show relative position of the damage.



Better pic of stud with wheel removed and stud cleaned up. Don't think that will buff out. Kind of surprised it hadn't snapped.



So do pics give any clues as to possible causes?

Note that calipers didn't show any measurable stretching of the stud and the fact that there are undamaged threads on both nut and stud seems to rule our cross threading.

Tomorrow I need to learn how to remove rotor and caliper so I can hammer out the stud. Any tips before I go to Google and YouTube?
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Old 09-28-2016, 10:20 PM   #19
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In the last photo the stud at the very top has a keeper on it. This needs to be removed prior to pulling the rotor.
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Old 09-28-2016, 11:56 PM   #20
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No way I would skip replacing that stud.

As for causes, the stock wrenches are just cheap emergency tools. They can slip a little and allow uneven torque to be applied while loosening. This is even more true on high torque, or over-torqued nuts. I agree that it doesn't look cross threaded.

I carry one of those big cross shaped lug wrenches in the van after learning this the hard way on another car.
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