Well, this past Saturday I installed my MAXX-Lift 2" leveling kit and thought I would share a couple of things with you. First off, the job was very simple to do provided you are a moderate home mechanic and good with a set of hand tools.
One thing I will stress is document everything and start by recording you initial ride height and camber settings. I say this more so from the side of alignment as I was quoted RIDICULOUS pricing (as I believe I indicated in this thread). I had remembered that I had a grassroots type camber gauge that I got from a company called Ingalls almost ten years ago and with that fabricated a suitable camber gauge aparatus for the purpose of this install from a flat screen TV mount and few cents worth of carriage bolts and nuts.
By simply recording the camber settings before and after, I was able to go to a local parts store (O'Riellly) and by the same kind and brand of camber adjuster that 95% of all alignment shops are going to use. My cost, $13.99 ea, not $45.00 each
like the Alignment shops were quoting. Incidentally, with the wheel off it takes less than 15 minutes to remove and install the adjuster, most shops are charging hour labor per side just to install the adjuster. The vehicle still needs to go to the alignment shop for toe and caster adjustments but now its less that a hundred bucks and not $370 as one shop quoted.
Word to the wise if you've never done suspension work and have any reservation about it, don't do it. Any time you are working with coil springs they are under EXTREME LOAD and cause serious injury and or DEATH! PLEASE REFER TO SOMEONE QUALIFIED IN THIS FIELD.
A couple of things that i saw on the internet did not sit well with me regarding some of the methods by which the MAXX Lift was installed especially if you have to replace the factory bolt that captures the I beam, Radius arm and spring plate. USE GRADE 8 HARDWARE. Maxx lift supplies an extension nut for the spring plate and also serves as a locator for the "puck" or spacer. I had seen it was being used as the nut to secure the assembly together with a few stacked washers to make up the necessary height. Personally I would not do this as there is no mention any where of the material that this extension is made from. Remember this the front suspension of your vehicle that you are intrusting these parts too. As you will see in the photograph (use the link to my gallery below) I installed the bolt (3/4-10 x 8") SAE washer through the bottom of the assembly, another SAE washer and a "C' nut (locking nut), I don't recommend Nyloc as I have had them loosen up in the past and they are too tall for this setup. Torque everything down and then install the exstension nut with Blue Loctite. Once the puck is installed its all flush.
Now I don't care for the fact that you have to reuse the lower spring cup to captivate the spring as with this setup you wind up with about a half inch gap between the spring and the cap. Ford use to use on the F serise a washer or Belville washer to captivate the spring and this is more appropriate. I may switch out at a later date if I can find the washer. Once the spring is installed the spring cup, lock washer and nut can be installed. Everything is nice and tidy and secure.
The final number on lift 2.125 L/F and 2.00 R/F I had +.75deg and 0 deg left and right when I started and now with a 2.25 deg and 3.00 deg cam I have -.50 and 0 camber. Be very careful when getting into 2.25 degress and above as in some case the knuckle can contact the I beam and bind always check for clearance when steering through lock to lock.
Hope this helps
http://sportsmobileforum.com/gallery...p?album_id=691
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