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Old 06-29-2018, 02:38 PM   #1
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Windshield Seal/Molding Question - E350

Hi folks, could use some advice.
I had the windshield replaced on my van just less than a year ago. The glass is great and no leaks! However, the Seal/Molding around the glass has started to lift slightly on the roof side and glass side. Is this a big deal for water getting in between the seal and body creating rust? Or will any water that gets in drain off below by the end of the seal, near the hood and not be a concern? And at that rate just be a aesthetic.
Thanks!
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:02 PM   #2
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:12 PM   #3
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There's a member here on the forum who has worked in the auto glass industry a while and can probably give you some good advice. I would message him, his handle is "JWA".
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Old 06-29-2018, 04:29 PM   #4
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The install company gave me a full refund. I didn't have them replace because they will only replace the window and gasket together, plus I don't want to do business with them any more.

In fact all the auto glass places I've talked to so far around here will only replace the window and gasket together.

I just want to replace the seal with a proper OEM ford seal. Not the windshield too, it's good and doesn't leak.

Is installing molding seal something I can do myself?
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Old 06-29-2018, 05:34 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by mikracer View Post
There's a member here on the forum who has worked in the auto glass industry a while and can probably give you some good advice. I would message him, his handle is "JWA".
What he said. Talk to JWA.





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Old 06-29-2018, 05:38 PM   #6
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What he said. Talk to JWA.
Yup. I shot JWA a PM already. Hoping to get a response to this thread to add to forum knowledge.
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Old 06-29-2018, 06:35 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Youngster View Post
Yup. I shot JWA a PM already. Hoping to get a response to this thread to add to the forum knowledge.
Present and accounted for Sir(s)!

Okay so first up assuming your Quigley is 1992 or later the windshield and molding are one piece, called encapsulated in the glass biz parlance. They're not separate so if there's any issue with fitment after installation its basically a defective windshield. Sad thing is I replaced my own with a "premium" OEM brand called Carlite and shortly after the upper molding detached itself from the windshield and raised a ruckus that drowned out the radio. Anyway........

If your windshield isn't leaking this is purely aesthetic, also assuming IF the installer used a proper adhesion promoter or "primer" on the pinch weld to cover any scratches through the paint there is little to no chance rust will occur. Big if here as some skip this step, their reasons being many but ill-advised. Once upon a time I too neglected this step but those days are long past.

There is another trick of the trade a good friend and colleague developed where the molding attachment is reinforced by back filling it with the same installation urethane adhesive before the windshield is installed. This works wonders over the longer term, not a single encapsulated windshield I or my friend have installed using this method has had an ill-fitting molding come loose. Soooo......

Not sure what advice to offer other than watch the body area surrounding the windshield for ANY signs of rust creeping out from under the molding. If/when that happens its time to immediately have the windshield replaced by someone that will remove and treat the rust properly. Once that's done they'll prime the pinch weld with a high quality material, back fill the molding before setting it in place.

Rust that forms under the windshield can be a huge body issue if ignored and left untreated a long time. Sadly this is easy to do because the molding covers the very area prone to rust (in the case of a poor installation) and if no leaks are noticed all is thought to be well.

BTW it is VERY unadvisable placing a coin as you show between the molding and the windshield---you're touching the edge of the glass with metal which can and does cause a crack.

Also BTW II replacing the molding isn't something you can do without experience. The molding has a metal spline gripping the edge of the glass and removing it (IF already trapped by the urethane adhesive) makes this a tough chore even for those of us experienced in the trade. For a lot of reasons its honestly less troublesome to replace the entire windshield even if at no charge to the customer.

Any questions please ask---if I've droned on too much forgive por favor
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Old 06-29-2018, 08:12 PM   #8
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Great intel! I now understand why full glass/molding replacement is needed.

The glass installers I used did chip some paint at the edge of the molding. Who knows what happened deeper underneath. Thus why I did not use them again, I was worried they'd just trash it more.

So, what are some names in quality windshield brands that will have molding that lays down properly?

FWIW, the quarter I used for scale, in the pictures, was gently "placed" in the gap not wedged in at all.
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Old 06-30-2018, 10:16 AM   #9
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Great intel! I now understand why full glass/molding replacement is needed.

The glass installers I used did chip some paint at the edge of the molding. Who knows what happened deeper underneath. Thus why I did not use them again, I was worried they'd just trash it more.
That's wise---no need to let them hack at it again.

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So, what are some names in quality windshield brands that will have molding that lays down properly?
Tough to say with absolute certainty any one brand will have the moldings attached so they stay in place---- the back filling method I describe above works with any brand. These days any brand can have this problem. Do avoid Safelite brand of SGC which is just about the worst quality and fit of any brand I've ever seen.

The installer can also run the urethane bead a bit "higher" on the pinch weld in order to capture the molding edge thereby keeping it in place pretty much forever. (Higher in this context is the bead is placed further from the interior opening, most times we shoot to have it centered in the width of the pinch weld.)

For my own use I would and did buy Carlite but Pilkington and Guardian if they're available in your area are good choices. For my personal vans I use what's known as a DW1292 because I remove the rear view mirror lug giving me a 100% unobstructed view of the road. In my van a RV mirror is useless so why have it mucking up the view?

Most shops these days use DW1504 as it fits "everything" and readily available--that part number was used on 2003>2005 E-Series. Later years have different numbers but more expensive to the installer, less profit when using those.

(Those numbers are nationally aftermarket part numbers recognized by any glass shop, they're different from an OEM part number which would be Ford's typical scheme for identifying their parts.

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Originally Posted by Youngster View Post
FWIW, the quarter I used for scale, in the pictures, was gently "placed" in the gap not wedged in at all.
That's good---don't want to cause any damage not already there.

HTH
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:15 PM   #10
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Present and accounted for Sir(s)!
Great discussion, as always in this group...and, JWA, my friend, I am really happy that you share your particular expertise with us.

But..."Sir(s)"?

Should I take this one personally?

Just askin'


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