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12-07-2007, 08:48 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Freeport, ME
Posts: 49
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Towing
Anyone know where I can find the class/weight rating of my receiver hitch? I checked the original dealer window sticker and it says Class II/III/IV. I can only assume that an E350 would come with at least a Class 3 hitch, right? I plan on renting a car carrier in 2 weeks to move across the country (2 of us with 3 vehicles) and will need to tow about 6,000 - 7,000 lbs (incl. trailer weight).
Any help is appreciated.
Ken Keister
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12-07-2007, 09:09 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Soquel, CA
Posts: 154
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Ken,
My reciever has a sticker on it that shows the class reciever and tow weights. I think it is a class IV, but without looking I don't remember the weights. Check the reciever for the sticker.
Chris
__________________
2007 Sportsmobile EB-50 4X4 6.0 Diesel with extras
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12-07-2007, 10:09 PM
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#3
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Site Team
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern New Mexico
Posts: 10,177
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If it's a factory Ford trailer hitch, it will be a class IV hitch. I think class IV's can accommodate 5000lbs tongue weight, and can EASILY handle 6-7,000lbs. An E350 is rated to tow up to 10,000lbs. Play around with the location of the vehicle on the trailer to find the sweet-spot regarding tongue weight. A general rule of thumb is to shoot for about 10% of the combined trailer weight as tongue weight.
I've towed about 7,000lbs a fair number of times. Bogs down on the hills, and make sure you have a brake controller and a trailer with brakes on it because it will seriously affect your braking. Turn off overdrive on most uphills to help keep the transmission in one gear, and turn it off and/or downshift on downhills to save your brakes.
Herb
__________________
SMB-less as of 02/04/2012. Our savings account is richer, but our adventures are poorer.
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12-07-2007, 11:08 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Freeport, ME
Posts: 49
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Thanks for the input. Here is what I plan to use:
I will be putting a 4Runner on the trailer, which is actually too heavy according to the trailer specifications; but the Uhaul website doesn't discourage it. I'm hoping that the double axel will take on much of the load and reduce the tongue weight. The vehicle will probably sit on the trailer like the following picture (taken a few years ago).
CLICK HERE IF PICTURE DOESN'T SHOW
Any additional thoughts or concerns? Should I be concerned? My only other option is to fly back and drive the 4Runner separately.
Ken
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12-07-2007, 11:23 PM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: New "Yawk" City
Posts: 245
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Towing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco_hauler
If it's a factory Ford trailer hitch, it will be a class IV hitch. I think class IV's can accommodate 5000lbs tongue weight, and can EASILY handle 6-7,000lbs. An E350 is rated to tow up to 10,000lbs.
Herb
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The factory trailer hitch can accommodate the maximum your vehicle can tow, whatever that rating is (mine is just under 10,000 lbs.) BUT, the maximum tongue weight is 1,000 lbs, WITH a weight distributing hitch.
Trailer tongue weight should be between 10% - 15% of the weight of the trailer, loaded.
__________________
2005 Ford E-350 Diesel Sportsmobile
EB 102 Voyager top, 3.55 rear, Mobil 1 all around
270 amp alternator, billet water pump, coolant filter kit,
aluminum radiator, X-Monitor with pyro, trans temp, boost
+ Scan Gauge & SCT Live Wire (Economy)
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12-09-2007, 09:12 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 7,643
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Remember you want some tongue weight, and the receiver ratings are dependant on the vehicle- not that the E350 is a lightweight.
You could always flat tow, you lose the weight of the trailer and the SMB pulls a Wrangler like it's not there, I imagine the 4runner is pretty light. You need lights and a flat tow bar, and to determine if the vehicle tranny needs anything special- for example:
Jeep Wrangler - tranny in first (or Park), tcase in N, tow forever
Atlas II - same config, good for 300 miles after which you should start vehicle engine and engage gear (D or 1st) with Altas in N to lubricate. Rinse and repeat
Some vehicles need additional work to make them flat towable, however pulling the driveshafts is always an option, and since this is a one time deal that's probably your best bet just to be safe.
I'll be dragging a flat tow bar to Denver around Christmas if you're interested I'll keep it on top of my junk.
__________________
it was good to be back
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12-09-2007, 09:14 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 7,643
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Oh yeah, I'll also be bringing my tried and true car trailer but you'd have to drag it empty one way.
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it was good to be back
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12-09-2007, 09:18 PM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 7,643
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Wait... across the country? That means you're moving AWAY from Colorado? Are you going to be Floridia Ken?
Jeeze, I didn't expect people to actually leave Colorado just because I'm moving there!
__________________
it was good to be back
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12-09-2007, 09:30 PM
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#9
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Freeport, ME
Posts: 49
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According to the manual, it is not supposed to be flat-towed. I'm sure it can be done with the adjustments you mentioned, but I think I will just put it on the carrier with all four off the road.
Yes, I am leaving Colorado. We are moving to Maine and will be leaving before the holiday. Don't worry, we will be back visiting every chance we get.
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