Trailer control brake choices & install

[rionapo]

We jumped the cliff and ordered a Chaser trailer from Adventure Trailers, to be picked up 8/27. We need to install a brake controller (it has the electric brake option) so I thought I'd ask for opinions on the forum given my utter lack of experience with trailers much less brake controllers.

Professor Google tells me there are time-delay and proportional versions. Seems like proportional is better and I'm intrigued by the newer versions that have accelerometers. Thoughts?

Jage posted a couple of nice threads about installation quite a few years ago. I assume nothing’s changed there but I wonder whether anyone knows where to find the controller connection in a 2012 Ford with the towing package. This is the only unused plug I see; maybe it works:



Adventure Trailers says the Chaser will connect to the hitch under our Aluminess tire carrier and cargo box with no problem. I’ve seen some pics in various threads and that appears to be true. Does anyone have any experience with the connection?

Speaking of the hitch, is a standard issue hitch ball sufficient? Or do I need a fancy one?

Any other thoughts on the braking and hitching front are appreciated.

-d-

[Bbasso]

Nice purchase.

Details,
Weight /length /height /axle (s)?

[REF]

I just had this controller thrown in, I didn’t realize they just clip in otherwise I would have done it myself. That connection looks like the one. There are fancier models that have more bells/whistles but the RV dealership said this one was more than adequate for towing our just acquired Lance 21ft. trailer at 4500 dry weight, 6000 gvwr. Those chaser trailers are not that heavy and have a single axle, you should be more than fine with this one too. It allows you to choose your level of boost and braking.

Tekonsha 90160 Primus IQ Electronic Brake Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P11SCM..._thKCBbP8DSBR8

[MadScience]

On the e-series, there's a second, identical, unused connector under the dash to confuse hooking up a brake controller. One is the color or the one in your picture, and the other one is darker, closer to black or brown. It's been a while. IIRC, you want the one that's on the inside of the drivers side fender, not the one more centrally in the drivers footwell. Check continuity to the connectors on the back frame rail of the van to be sure.

I have a Tekonsha P3 and like it fine. I wouldn't skip the accelerometer.

You need a ball that's rated for the weight of your trailer. For the heavier stuff I have a forged ball mount with a 2 5/16" ball. It does fit a bit more snug and might make a little less noise. For the lighter stuff I have something fairly basic. Cut up soda cans make great shims if something is moving around.

If you can, pull the van up to the trailer and figure out how much drop or rise you need before you buy a ball mount.

Edit: Looking at your picture, I fear that may be the wrong connector. Try digging a bit into the harnesses on the left wall.

[Jsweezy]

If you have the "heavy duty tow package" without the actual controller you may be able to use the stock controller. Thats what I did, it just takes a little computer work to make it work but I like the stock controller more than the aftermarket ones. MG can help you more with that option.

[rionapo]

Originally Posted by Bbasso

Nice purchase.

Details,
Weight /length /height /axle (s)?

Details here.

[TomsBeast]

Weather or not you need a fancy hitch depends on what you're going to do. Standard balls are pretty darn tough, but if over-travelled while offroad, can pop out.

There's an offroad coupler that allows a lot more 'flex angle' differential between the towed and the towing vehicles, that's worth looking into, if you plan on doing any 'jeeper trails' (Lock-n-roll, max coupler, etc)
https://locknroll.com/shop-now/?rout...ategory&path=1

Max Coupler Articulating Trailer Hitch - Four Wheeler Magazine

[rionapo]

Originally Posted by Jsweezy

If you have the "heavy duty tow package" without the actual controller you may be able to use the stock controller. Thats what I did, it just takes a little computer work to make it work but I like the stock controller more than the aftermarket ones. MG can help you more with that option.

Do you mean purchase the stock controller from Ford as a new install?

-d-

[carringb]

Yeah, the best brake controller by far is the factory Ford integrated controller. It replaces the coin holder. BTW - I'm pretty sure that's also where your connector is hiding, is behind that thing.

2nd best controller is the Prodigy P3. They also sell the Primus which works the same, but without the fancy display. Slightly less intuitive to setup however.

Skip the timer based units. Those shouldn't even be allowed to be called "controllers".

BTW - check out Bull Dog couplers. They work with any regular hitch ball, but maintain full strength even backwards, or with negative tongue weight. Situations that might make a standard latch come off. Bulldog couplers are nearly standard issue on horse trailers and other ag equipment.

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by TomsBeast

Weather or not you need a fancy hitch depends on what you're going to do. Standard balls are pretty darn tough, but if over-travelled while offroad, can pop out.

There's an offroad coupler that allows a lot more 'flex angle' differential between the towed and the towing vehicles, that's worth looking into, if you plan on doing any 'jeeper trails' (Lock-n-roll, max coupler, etc)
https://locknroll.com/shop-now/?rout...ategory&path=1

Max Coupler Articulating Trailer Hitch - Four Wheeler Magazine

I have the Max Coupler (first generation, I believe) and it's the only coupler I use on my teardrop. You occasionally have to man-handle it a little to get the two sides lined up to insert the hitch pin, but once you get familiar with it, its not a big deal.

Its gone offroad with me over hundreds of miles, and its gone on the interstate with me at 75mph.


Herb