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Old 08-12-2017, 10:41 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by BroncoHauler View Post
In theory it could help because it should increase air flow through the radiator and trans cooler, but I think you'd achieve better results (trans cooling) with just a larger trans cooler.
"Louvers" on an E Series hood do nothing while moving as air pressure above / below are the same, boywonder and I did the test with air pressure sensors mounted above and below. At rest, the louvers allow heat to escape.

I agree, from experience, with adding the larger trans cooler.

A "scoop" or two, which could create pressure differential, might be better. Perhaps collecting air above the hood and directing down into the engine compartment behind the radiator might help, BUT this would also change the pressures in front and behind the radiator in a way which might decrease flow through the radiator negating any benefit of the scoops.

One thing to note is how far back the radiator sits relative to the hood. It is pretty far back.
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Old 08-12-2017, 02:47 PM   #12
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I read the hood louvers (vent inserts) will help lower transmission temperature. Anybody know if there is any truth in that?
On my 6.0 I've found the fan programming to make a huge difference. I did see a decrease in trans temps after the louvers were installed but I also tuned it and had a more aggressive fan operation applied. At idle, if the fan kicks on, it will push a lot of air and I'd like to see if air flow does move out of the engine bay at slower speeds through the louvers. At higher speeds I honestly believe the air pressure on the hood will be a factor for louver operation. I don't really have high speed cooling issue since the tune was installed, but slow speeds on trails has made me keep an eye on Trans/water/oil temps. The only thing is the fan is noisy and on a slow dusty trail it's unreal how much dust it kicks up from under radiator.
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Old 08-12-2017, 03:14 PM   #13
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On my 6.0 I've found the fan programming to make a huge difference. I did see a decrease in trans temps after the louvers were installed but I also tuned it and had a more aggressive fan operation applied. ...
Dave, since you found someone who can custom program the fan, can the engine be programmed to stay on for a certain number of minutes after shutdown to cool things down, similar to a stand-alone turbo timer?


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Old 08-12-2017, 07:04 PM   #14
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Does seem like a very conservative chart.
The chart is warning about average temps. So if I'm just hauling along at 160 degrees most of the time and see 210 degrees occasionally, no big deal.

I did end up replacing a transmission shortly after towing with it sitting at 220 degrees for a full day. However, it did have 150k miles on it, and may have been running quite so hot because it was plugging up the cooler. So the direction of the causality is at least unclear.

I don't think you can drive these things up and down mountains on a hot day without ending up above 200 degrees every so often, and they aren't blowing up left and right. In fact, in these vans the 4r100 seem to last around 150k miles. The e4od a little less, and the 5r110 a bit more.
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Old 08-12-2017, 08:43 PM   #15
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I have a 6.0 and started to run a bit hot trans temp (low 200's) after the new bumper, following other members I added an air scoop under the bumper. 2" X 16" and saw ~ 10 to 15 Deg decrease in temp at slow speeds. It increases air pressure differential by directing more air in front of the radiators.

I also have hood and side louvers but those only seem to cool down the engine when not moving.
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Old 08-13-2017, 03:40 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by BroncoHauler View Post
Dave, since you found someone who can custom program the fan, can the engine be programmed to stay on for a certain number of minutes after shutdown to cool things down, similar to a stand-alone turbo timer?


Herb
The DP tuner does a lot but not sure about that. Basically Jody sent me new programs until I found one that worked the best. Even my SCT tuner let me control the fan in some aspects. The funny thing is when I put the van back to stock. Slow as a snail and runs a good 10+ degrees hotter ECT's. I'm satisfied with the last program but the fan engages constantly, and if the A/C is on the fan stays engaged most of the time... even in cooler weather. I see fairly large swings in coolant temps while the oil follows the coolant temps closely. Typically I see the EOT rise as high as 228 then as the fan kicks in, it will drop quickly to 195-210. In really hot weather with the A/C running the fan stays on probably 95% of the time. The transmission temps don't fluctuate like ECT/EOT's but lags behind and obviously will run hotter in warmer weather and/or pulling a grade as expected. Before the tuner, T-temps would run about 200-220. I set my alarm at 220. Driving slow makes it reach 220 when the engine is loaded up but normally the gauge reads around 195 on flat ground when the weather is pushing 100 or higher. With the engine running cooler overall, the transmission alarm doesn't trigger near as often.


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Originally Posted by Nick View Post
I have a 6.0 and started to run a bit hot trans temp (low 200's) after the new bumper, following other members I added an air scoop under the bumper. 2" X 16" and saw ~ 10 to 15 Deg decrease in temp at slow speeds. It increases air pressure differential by directing more air in front of the radiators.

I also have hood and side louvers but those only seem to cool down the engine when not moving.
Did you use the Ford air dam or did you do something custom? Any pics? I recall Scatter making one but I just don't remember him offering any pros or cons. It's something I've been looking to do in the near future. To tell the truth the louvers were about trying to keep the engine harness from high heat.
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Old 08-13-2017, 05:33 AM   #17
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Some folks use the ford OEM plastic scoop, I wanted a larger size so I fab one up out of Alum. There are several write up in the forrum with pics. Search under tran temp. I'll post some pics when I get home. This is definitely a must for the hotter 6.0's with mods bumpers.
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Old 08-13-2017, 09:28 AM   #18
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The strategy on a PCM tune cannot be tweaked to control turbo cooling by extending engine shut off. Maybe if there was a sensor that monitored EGTs but there isn't and that's why we install aftermarket pyrometers.

My guess is that pushing the engine hard and getting EGTs up to 1200F at WOT occasionally to burn out carbon deposits is more important for turbo health than waiting for the turbo to cool down while idling after a hard pull. I have no evidence to support that but there is truth in the adage of driving it like you stole it.
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Old 08-13-2017, 12:09 PM   #19
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Speaking of fans, it seems that the fan on the front of our motors can suck as much as 30HP! Electric fans seem to be the way to go, and if i can gain even 15hp, it might be a worth while investment, not to mention the ability to control it manually if wanted, (say when a big climb is coming up) possibly an increased total air flow, and lower transmission temps. Anyone done this?
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Old 08-13-2017, 01:45 PM   #20
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Pics, not very sexy looking but as I said very functional
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