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Old 07-25-2013, 02:11 AM   #21
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July, 08; Wrangell, AK (USA) to Ketchikan, AK (USA)


Date (day): July, 08 (Day 9)
Source: Wrangell, Alaska (USA)
Destination: Ketchikan, Alaska (USA)
Travel Miles: Some FS roads and travel via ferry
Resources: Nemo Loop; Nemo Loop Map (*.pdf)

Daily Note(s):
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  • Woke to rain. Our B&B host Leslie once again prepared a very good hot breakfast (sourdough pancakes).[/*:m:28mqqunn]
  • As we were moving on, we checked out of the B&B and headed out in search of new FS roads.[/*:m:28mqqunn]
  • First we stopped off in town to purchase some groceries (Bob's IGA). Next we stopped off at the US Forest Service office and picked up an island map for $10.00.[/*:m:28mqqunn]
  • We tried the north end of Wrangell Island as a starting point. There looked to be three possible FS roads. We chose two, both of which dead-ended. The third one looked promising (as we could see many FS roads in the distance), but it required us to go back through a property where the owner(s) did NOT want any visitors. Shoot first, ask questions later kind of signage here. We decided instead to go back to the southern part of the island and do more exploring there. It was a great decision. [/*:m:28mqqunn]
  • This time, we drove Nemo Loop. This loop was well groomed gravel and had three of the most spectacular FS sites we had seen anywhere (Three Sisters, Anita Bay, and Highline). Each only had one to two sites. From any, you could watch seine, gillnet, and trolling fishing in full swing. I think that I would go back just to camp at any one of these. Both Three Sisters and Anita Bay had parking areas that were separated from the actual campsite. This was not optimal for van camping. However, as each site was wheelchair accessible, a bicycle or motorcycle could easily be pushed into the actual campsites.[/*:m:28mqqunn]
  • Next, we explored Lower Salamander (another great FS recreation site). We continued past the Lower Salamander FS site too and ended up high above the valley on FS ridge road that ended at a very remote parking lot and hiking trail.[/*:m:28mqqunn]
  • After eating lunch high up on the ridge, we headed back toward town (briefly stopping at the Upper Salamander FS site on the way). Another great spot, right on a river.[/*:m:28mqqunn]
  • Because of the rain, the van was caked in mud. Before I got back on pavement, I stopped the van, got out, and cleared all of the thick mud off of the steps, fender flares, bumpers, etc. The rain was actually a blessing in disguise as once we were back on pavement, the van kind of cleaned itself.[/*:m:28mqqunn]
  • Before getting on the ferry, we ordered a large pizza (from the Marine Bar) and ate most of it while in the parking lot of one of the boat harbors.[/*:m:28mqqunn]
  • Our ferry south to Ketchikan was the MV Matanuska.[/*:m:28mqqunn]
  • We purposefully did not get a room on the ferry for this leg of the trip and instead spent the night laying under the heat lamps in the solarium. As we arrived in Ketchikan at 2:30am, so it would not be a full night anyway. The sunset was typical for a SE Alaska ferry ride (awesome) and it stayed light until well after 10:30pm. Once again, we were almost the only ones in the solarium and basically felt as though we had the ferry to ourselves.[/*:m:28mqqunn]





Out exploring, again (north of Wrangell).

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Still exploring; now south of Wrangell; Nemo Loop; Three Sisters Campsite.

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Nemo Loop; Three Sisters Campsite.

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Nemo Loop; Three Sisters Campsite.

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Nemo Loop.

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Nemo Loop; Anita Bay Overlook Campsite.

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Nemo Loop; Anita Bay Overlook Campsite.

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Nemo Loop.

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Nemo Loop; Highline Campsite.

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Nemo Loop.

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Lower Salamander Recreation Site.

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Lower Salamander Recreation Site.

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Hiking, Alaska style.

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View for lunch.

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Upper Salamander Recration Site.

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Time to move further south; specifically Ketchikan via ferry.

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View from the ferry.

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We pretty much had the boat to ourselves.

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We would all be sleeping in the solarium on this short trip south.

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Old 07-25-2013, 07:12 AM   #22
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Re: TWOLOST: Southeast Alaska; July, 2013 - (in progress)

The Forest Service roads look really good and well maintained. Would they be passable with a 2WD SMB?

Great pics and sounds like a really good trip! Love the pics with your daughter... our son is 8 and we have similar types of pics with him.
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:47 AM   #23
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Summarized replies to questions so far.


Thanks everyone for the comments!!


SCBrian: About the TW200? The dingy for this trip was my wife’s 2012 TW200. The only mods I have done to this bike was to add a full skid plate, new wider foot pegs, rear luggage rack, and hand guards. Good quality chain is next on the list. This bike sits on a MotoJackRack (400lb version) which keeps it up and out of the way while out in the boonies. I had to use a five inch trailer hitch extension in addition to the MJR for the bike to clear the rear tire and box. I have created a couple of adjustable stays that connect the MJR to the rear bumper that help reduce bike/rack wobble on uneven terrain. In the end, we did not take the TW off the van on this trip… because we were moving around so much already and both my wife and I tag-teamed watching our very curious three year old. I will note that the combination of van and a bike is a great combination on Prince of Wales. There are so many roads and so few gas stations that having a remote home base with fuel will get you places that most of the adventure bike folks cant realistically get to (places worth going).

LenS: Box on front of van? This box holds items like my disassembled chain saw, tranny fluid, engine oil, cleaning chemicals, etc. We just needed the extra space in addition to keeping these harmful items out of reach of our curious three year old.

gnty: Your trip sounds great and it is on our growing list of trips that we want to do.

mossbeachpaul: Camping or Boondocking? Boondocking is easy. There are any number of places to boondock and some with spectacular views you wont find elsewhere. FS camping is still remote. No hookups, power, water, etc… just a pad to park. However, there are typically fire rings, picnic tables, and some even have pit toilets. Many places also provided free firewood and had some form of grill (on the fire ring or separate). In our case, there was really no one else around. We encountered less than two vehicles per day (except when in Ketchikan) when out exploring and all of the remote FS campsites that we visited were available on the days we were there. Some of these sites are so amazing that it is hard for me to believe that they would not be occupied, often. All of them look to be first come, first serve (but that may be something to verify). Camping was really not an issue (if you had to camp somewhere). Obviously, you would like camp in the best spots and I don’t know how to guarantee that these sites would be available per your schedule. Regardless of the best spots, many of the FS sites are also very few in number (serving from one to three sites only). The real pressure for us was to make certain that we made our scheduled ferry. Turns out because the ferries were mostly empty, we could have flubbed up and still got on a later boat (in some cases)… but it would have created a real cascade kind of hassle.

Spenard: Thanks for the info regarding the architect/builder of shelter at Outlook Park. It was one of my favorite structures seen on this trip.

BrianW: The vast majority of roads that we navigated could easily be done by 2WD. We ran around in 4WD most of the time to save on flats, tire wear, and road wear. 4WD was also useful in Wrangell where we did encounter some significant rain - which, really changed the characteristics of the gravel road. Even in 4WD, our van would unintentionally ‘drift’ around some really water-logged corners. Overall, the FS road system in SE Alaska was beyond belief. In many cases, these roads were far better (smoother) than the paved roads.

Thanks again,


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Old 07-25-2013, 07:59 PM   #24
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Re: Summarized replies to questions so far.

Still an awesome set of pictures!
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Old 07-25-2013, 10:08 PM   #25
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July, 09; Ketchikan, AK (USA) to Prince of Wales Island (USA


Date (day): July, 09 (Day 10)
Source: Ketchikan, Alaska (USA)
Destination: Craig, Alaska (USA)
Travel Miles: Some pavement driving and travel via ferry
Resources: Best Western Plus; Landing Hotel; Dreamcatcher Bed & Breakfast ; Inter-Island Ferry Authority; Prince of Wales Island; Craig; Hollis;

Daily Note(s):
-------------------------------------------------
  • Arrived in Ketchikan, Alaska via ferry at 2:30am.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • Accommodations for the remainder of the night were provided by the Best Western Plus, Landing Hotel. This hotel was located right across the street from the Alaska Marine ferry terminal.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • A soft bed was welcome at this point.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • In the morning (9:00am), we went down to the adjoining restaurant for breakfast. This was expensive, too expensive.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • Next we went and found a grocery store (Safeway) to stock up on supplies in preparation the next remote part of our trip on Prince of Wales island.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • We then went back to the Alaska Marine ferry terminal and checked-in (at a different desk) for our Inter-Island Ferry ride over to Prince of Wales.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • MVUM maps can be found at the IFA check-in desk as well as on the IFA ferry. Each of these are full size paper maps and are free. The pack of four or five is a MUST HAVE.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • Also, posted on the ferry are current road conditions on POW. We took pictures of each road announcement on our cell phones so that we could recall them at any time. Again, this is a MUST HAVE.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • Our IFA boat was the MV Stikine and trip from Ketchikan to Price of Wales (Hollis), took around three hours.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • The food on the ferry was not exactly health food, but wow was it substantial.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • Upon arrival of our ferry in Hollis, we drove the 30 or so miles through to Craig on uneven paved highway.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • Our accommodations for the night would be the Dreamcatcher B&B, in Craig.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • We very briefly drove around in Craig and then checked-in to our B&B.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]
  • Our room was upstairs and we were the only guests for this evening. We decided not to drive any more today and just stayed put in our room for the remainder of the evening.[/*:m:h2nzwwwk]





Temporarily, we experienced significantly more chaos - in Ketchikan.

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Jumped on the MV Stikine for the three hour ferry ride to Price of Wales island (@ Hollis, AK).

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Destination was Craig, AK and the Dreamcatcher B&B (for one night). Dreamcatcher is the house on the left.

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View near B&B.

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Craig, AK

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Old 07-25-2013, 10:33 PM   #26
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July, 10; Prince of Wales Island (USA)


Date (day): July, 10 (Day 11)
Source: Craig, Alaska (USA)
Destination: Undetermined, Prince of Wales Island (USA)
Travel Miles: tbd
Resources: Klawock;Kasaan; Thorne Bay; Coffman Cove

Daily Note(s):
-------------------------------------------------
  • Breakfast at the Dreamcatcher B&B consisted of self-serve cereals, breads, milk, juice and the like. [/*:m:2ittyrnq]
  • We checked out of the B&B after breakfast and headed out to explore points north.[/*:m:2ittyrnq]
  • Other than passing through Klawock, our first real destination was Kasaan. The road to Kasaan was paved up until the Kasaan turn off (south of Thorne Bay). The paved road then turned into somewhat maintained gravel road for the remaining 15+ miles to Kasaan. The road dead-ended near what looked to be a newer schoolhouse. Very few buildings/businesses here, no fuel, groceries, etc. Following the various totem placards through the neighborhood and down to the waterfront, you will discover the path to the Kasaan Totem Park. The path is a well maintained quarter to half mile walk through dense rainforest. The path ends at the totem park. This park really displayed the totems in a serene setting. There was also an old Whale House that is worth exploring (bring a flashlight). Of all of the totem parks we visited on this trip, this was by far the most interesting and heartfelt.[/*:m:2ittyrnq]
  • After Kasaan, we traveled further north to Thorne Bay. In the 1960s and 1970s, Thorne Bay had built the largest logging camp in North America. The (once white and now painted red) tree grapple that greets visitors was once the largest in the world. Thorne Bay has fuel (both gas and diesel) among other amenities (groceries, Forest Service, liquor store, etc...). On this pass through town, we only stopped long enough to top off with diesel.[/*:m:2ittyrnq]
  • After Thorne Bay, we moved further north along the coast to Coffman Cove. This route is all gravel. Along the way we stopped at a picnic area called Sandy Beach. This was a great place to get out and set our three year old free (relatively speaking).[/*:m:2ittyrnq]
  • We only made a cursory pass through the town of Coffman Cove which had a very nice (but currently not in use) IFA ferry terminal. The town/neighborhoods were fairly dispersed. Not sure we ever did locate town center.[/*:m:2ittyrnq]
  • We decided that we keep moving/searching for a place to stay overnight. About five miles out of town, we encountered Luck Lake. Here, we found a place to boondock/camp right along the lakeshore. No wind, calm, serene, no bugs, perfect. This may have been the most ideal spot we had ever camped, yet.[/*:m:2ittyrnq]



Kasaan, AK

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Kasaan has SE Alaska's best totem park.

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Whale House (exterior).

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Whale House (interior). As I did not want to disturb the group by using a flash, this was a hand-held shot at 2.5 seconds (thus, the blur). The interior was so dark that it was not visible to the naked eye and it was only when I looked at this shot afterward on my PC, could I see the details of the interior.

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Next, we were off to Thorne Bay. The red device in the background is the worlds largest tree grapple.

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Next, we visited Coffman Cove

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We then setup camp at Luck Lake, overnight. Right on the lake.

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View of Luck Lake from our campsite (right outside of the van door).

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Firewood under the tires on the low side along with pits for the tires on the high side kept the van level.

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Old 07-26-2013, 09:35 AM   #27
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July, 11; Prince of Wales Island (USA)


Date (day): July, 11 (Day 12)
Source: Undetermined, Prince of Wales Island (USA)
Destination: Undetermined, Prince of Wales Island (USA)
Travel Miles: tbd
Resources: Whale Pass; Naukati; El Capitan Cave; Horseshoe Hole

Daily Note(s):
-------------------------------------------------
  • We woke to the lapping sounds of the lake on the shoreline.[/*:m:nrzdy06s]
  • After some self-prepared morning breakfast, we collapsed camp. This included leaving ZERO trace that we had ever camped there.[/*:m:nrzdy06s]
  • We encountered major road construction with a lengthy detour just south of Whale Pass (Forest Highway 43). As my luck would have it, we missed the pilot car by 20 minutes and had to spend more than two hours waiting for the next one. We decided to each lunch on the spot and I spent the remainder of time rigging fishing poles.[/*:m:nrzdy06s]
  • After we made it through the first road construction site, we encountered a second road construction site. The wait time for the pilot car was only about 20 minutes for this leg.[/*:m:nrzdy06s]
  • Finally, we arrived in Whale Pass. Not much here to write home about so we kept moving further north.[/*:m:nrzdy06s]
  • Next stop was El Capitan Cave. My travel buddies wanted no part in spelunking... so we only just visited the trailhead. Turns out that there was already a tour in progress when we arrived and we would not have been able to randomly wander around in the cave anyway. A FS guide is mandatory here.[/*:m:nrzdy06s]
  • We pushed further north up to Labouchere Bay. On the final push to 'Lab Bay', we encountered a number of black bears. Other than that, there was not much... other than the end of the road and a number of cars (in various states of semi-abandonment). After camping overnight at the amazing Luck Lake the night before... boondocking amongst rusting vehicles and boat trailers was not appealing enough to stay.[/*:m:nrzdy06s]
  • Even though it was getting late, we decided to find a boondock spot further south.[/*:m:nrzdy06s]
  • After a few failed attempts to locate the perfect spot, we pushed further south. So far south in fact that we drove back through the road construction (this time, there was no delays because the majority of work had stopped for the night).[/*:m:nrzdy06s]
  • We arrived in Naukati as it was getting dark. We could not make heads or tails of where to camp, so we pushed a little further south. Ultimately, we ended camping in an old FS campsite called Horseshoe Hole. Nothing special here. Just a flat piece of ground cut in the middle of a dense forest. No view, but as dark and quiet as a grave.[/*:m:nrzdy06s]



A little wind on Luck Lake in the morning.

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Next stop, Whale Pass.

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Boat ramp near El Capitan cave.

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End of the road (for us). Labouchere Bay.

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Labouchere Bay.

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Odd place for some sort of man made structure.

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Major amounts of construction north of Coffman Cove and south of Whale Pass. Delays are up to two hours during the day.

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Remote camping at Horseshoe Hole for the night

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Horseshoe is basically just a hole in the forrest.

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Old 07-26-2013, 09:51 AM   #28
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July, 12; Prince of Wales Island (USA)


Date (day): July, 12 (Day 13)
Source: Undetermined, Prince of Wales Island (USA)
Destination: Undetermined, Prince of Wales Island (USA)
Travel Miles: tbd
Resources: Sandy Beach; Luck Lake

Daily Note(s):
-------------------------------------------------
  • After a quick morning meeting of the minds, we decided to drive back to Thorne Bay to get a few groceries, fuel, and ice. We then decided to retrace some of our earlier steps back to Sandy Beach and Luck Lake.[/*:m:e6i83lq9]
  • After Thorne Bay, we frolicked at Sandy Beach for a couple of hours before going back to Luck Lake. [/*:m:e6i83lq9]
  • Our spot on Luck Lake was available once again. It was a little windier this time with a 10 knot wind blowing up the lake and directly at us. This made fishing with light tackle a challenge (casting into a headwind). No fish were caught... but I had a great time teaching our daughter to 'fish'. 'Fishing' does not equal 'catching' When I tried and tell my wife that 'fishing' is really a state of mind, and that is all that counts... she did not buy it. It is fish on the beach, or it should be called 'losing'. We agree to disagree on this one.[/*:m:e6i83lq9]
  • We explored the area and enjoyed another great night, sleeping by the side of the lake.[/*:m:e6i83lq9]



Back to Sandy Beach to expend some energy.

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Practicing log walking at Sandy Beach.

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Back to Luck Lake to try some fishing; camping as well.

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More wind today.

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First time fishing (ever) for our daughter.

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Old 07-26-2013, 08:07 PM   #29
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July, 13; Prince of Wales Island (USA)


Date (day): July, 13 (Day 14)
Source: Undetermined, Prince of Wales Island (USA)
Destination: Undetermined, Prince of Wales Island (USA)
Travel Miles: tbd
Resources: Papa's Pizza; Dreamcatcher Bed & Breakfast;

Daily Note(s):
-------------------------------------------------
  • In the morning we ate breakfast, enjoyed some JetBoil energized coffee, and then collapsed our camp. As part of our teardown, we once again we made it look like no one had camped here overnight.[/*:m:3dxqsaw2]
  • Today's plans included driving south past Sandy Beach (with some built in play time), past Thorne Bay, Klawok, and back to Craig where we would be staying at the Dreamcatcher B&B one last time.[/*:m:3dxqsaw2]
  • This time before checking in at our B&B, we ordered a 'papa size' 20" pizza to go from Papa's Pizza. Papa's Pizza is also owned and operated by Ken, our B&B host. We did have leftovers... but probably not as much leftovers as we should have had. We must have all been hungry.[/*:m:3dxqsaw2]


Back to Sandy Beach one last time before heading to Thorne Bay and Craig (to stay once again at the Dreamcatcher B&B), and then on to points south the following day.

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Old 07-26-2013, 11:02 PM   #30
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July, 14; Prince of Wales Island (USA)


Date (day): July, 14 (Day 15)
Source: Undetermined, Prince of Wales Island (USA)
Destination: Undetermined, Prince of Wales Island (USA)
Travel Miles: tbd
Resources: Hydaburg; Dog Salmon Fishpass ;

Daily Note(s):
-------------------------------------------------
  • After our self serve breakfast, we checked-out of the Dreamcatcher B&B. [/*:m:1ucvrcvx]
  • We then visited the Klawok Totem Park. This park has some nice totems for sure, but the setting is no where near as nice/idyllic as the totem park in Kasaan.[/*:m:1ucvrcvx]
  • Next we drove south toward Hydaburg.[/*:m:1ucvrcvx]
  • Before going to Hydaburg, we wanted to spend some time exploring the FS road system out Twelvemile Creek (NF-21). This included boondocking overnight. Upon our arrival at the Mainline Polk Road - 2100000, we found that it still looked to be closed. This FS road goes out to Dog Salmon Fish Pass and points beyond. The road closure announcements posted on the ferry indicated that this road was to be closed up until yesterday and it was supposed to be open today - but there was to still be some heavy equipment operation until the 24th. There were still road closed signs on the road as well as one active truck and excavator. We spoke with the excavator operator to see if we could get through and he indicated that as long as we followed the lone hauling truck we should be able to safely navigate through this four mile work area. That is exactly what we did. [/*:m:1ucvrcvx]
  • Turns out that we were at least two weeks too early to see any bears at Dog Salmon Fish Pass. As per the excavator operator, the ranger that was supposed to be stationed out there to manage the primitive viewpoint was not due to show up for another couple weeks. No fish = no bears.[/*:m:1ucvrcvx]
  • Even with no bears, we gave ourselves the self-guided tour. By the number of eagles perched in the trees, they surely believed that the fish would be arriving soon. Still-in-all, we did not see any bears.[/*:m:1ucvrcvx]
  • We jumped back in the van and kept following Dog Salmon Creek until it exited into Polk Inlet. The exit of Dog Salmon Creek was near a large flat dirt area and primitive boat ramp. Not far away was a nice float plane dock and some sort of cabin.[/*:m:1ucvrcvx]
  • We wanted to see if we could get into some elevation so that we could get a better view of the landscape so we headed out on NF-2150. Sure enough, this took us around the base of Polk Inlet and we ended up high on the opposing ridgeline. We almost made it up into the snowline, but we were blocked by a slide that had brought down a clump of dirt, rock, and trees in one consolidated root ball that was more than we could have realistically tackled in one night. [/*:m:1ucvrcvx]
  • While out exploring, we found a number of nice places to boondock. Now we had to settle on one. We chose the 641 spur off of NF-2150 to setup camp. This spur had an ok view of Polk Inlet and a provided a great place to watch the sun go down.[/*:m:1ucvrcvx]
  • Turned out that this was a great day of exploring. So glad we took the opportunity to ask the excavator operator if/how we could get through earlier in the day... rather than just calling it quits and going elsewhere.[/*:m:1ucvrcvx]



Klawok Totem Park.

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Klawok totem detail.

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Next, off to Dog Salmon Fish Pass to possibly see black bears feeding on pink salmon.

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We are the only ones there. No bears either. Two weeks too early.

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Small elevated viewing area over Dog Salmon Creek.

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Dog Salmon Creek's exit into Polk Inlet at a remote marine access point.

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Floatplane dock in Polk Inlet

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More FS road exploring east of Polk Inlet

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Polk Inlet view from FS road.

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Camp for the night; end of a FS road spur overlooking Polk Inlet.

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