2" front lift E350?

[winmag4582001]

Anybody install one on these kits on a 2wd E350? Any tips or suggestions?
Thanks

[TheLetterJ]

Yep. Before I blew my money with Camburg, I used 2" lift 2wd F350 (Superduty pickup) spacers. I had to buy 8" long 3/4" diameter grade 8 coarse thread bolts (inserted from the bottom) then a nyloc nut tightening the beam/radius arm together, then the stud extension tightened above that, drop the spacer over the stud extension, plate washer (my friend made some out of 1/4" plate and they worked much better than the store bought fender washers I used) on top of that, and then another nyloc. Install was very easy, just pull your swaybar, 1 end of each front shock, and the "j" hook that holds the top of the coil to the bucket and then you're ready for the spacer install.

Save yourself a headache and purchase some double eccentric alignment cams (loosen the pinch bolt at the end of the i-beam and se 2 opposed pry bars to pry the old one out) and install those at the same time, otherwise the alignment shop will tell you it can't be aligned, or they will try to charge you a fortune. With the dual cams it will align back to factory spec.

I test fit some worn out 285/70/17"s and they were just a bit too big without trimming. 275's might squeak by, but 265's would be totally comfortable. My buddy has 265's on stock wheels on his e150 with the same spacers and it does not sit quite as tall as my 350 did.

[winmag4582001]

Where do you pick up double eccentric cams? I think that would make them round....? Are those at the rear of the radius arms or are they the lower side of the front ball joints?
Thank you

[winmag4582001]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

Yep. Before I blew my money with Camburg, I used 2" lift 2wd F350 (Superduty pickup) spacers. I had to buy 8" long 3/4" diameter grade 8 coarse thread bolts (inserted from the bottom) then a nyloc nut tightening the beam/radius arm together, then the stud extension tightened above that, drop the spacer over the stud extension, plate washer (my friend made some out of 1/4" plate and they worked much better than the store bought fender washers I used) on top of that, and then another nyloc. Install was very easy, just pull your swaybar, 1 end of each front shock, and the "j" hook that holds the top of the coil to the bucket and then you're ready for the spacer install.

Save yourself a headache and purchase some double eccentric alignment cams (loosen the pinch bolt at the end of the i-beam and se 2 opposed pry bars to pry the old one out) and install those at the same time, otherwise the alignment shop will tell you it can't be aligned, or they will try to charge you a fortune. With the dual cams it will align back to factory spec.

I test fit some worn out 285/70/17"s and they were just a bit too big without trimming. 275's might squeak by, but 265's would be totally comfortable. My buddy has 265's on stock wheels on his e150 with the same spacers and it does not sit quite as tall as my 350 did.

Are you referring to the camber cam at the top of the yolk on the upper ball joint?

[REDOVAL]

Do it correct and shoot a call down to Weldtec Designs for their leveling kit. The end results is an easy-to-install setup that is designed and executed well.

Ford E-Series Vans - Performance Leveling Kit - Weldtec Designs

Scott

[TheLetterJ]

Originally Posted by winmag4582001

Are you referring to the camber cam at the top of the yolk on the upper ball joint?

Yes sir. You'll need 2-3 degrees less camber (negative) to straighten your wheels back out after installing a spacer, but doing that with single eccentrics means that you won't have any adjustment left to get your caster where it needs to be. The double eccentrics are like 2 cams nested inside of each other and they will allow you to get both caster and camber back to factory spec.

It will drive just fine that way, but more caster than OEM spec would be even better. The only way to do that is to modify (or replace altogether) the radius arms so that they have more "built in" caster, like what WeldTec and Action Van do for their basic kits.

My stock E350 shocks were long enough to still allow some downwards travel after installing the spacers, but my buddies E150 shocks would not even bolt back up at ride height with the spacers, so you may or may not need longer shocks.

Here's some cams similar to what I'm talking about: Alignment Caster Camber Bushing Caster Camber Bushing Fits 80 04 Ford F 250 | eBay

If you play your cards right, you can be leveled and aligned for ~$150-$200.

[winmag4582001]

Originally Posted by TheLetterJ

Yes sir. You'll need 2-3 degrees less camber (negative) to straighten your wheels back out after installing a spacer, but doing that with single eccentrics means that you won't have any adjustment left to get your caster where it needs to be. The double eccentrics are like 2 cams nested inside of each other and they will allow you to get both caster and camber back to factory spec.

It will drive just fine that way, but more caster than OEM spec would be even better. The only way to do that is to modify (or replace altogether) the radius arms so that they have more "built in" caster, like what WeldTec and Action Van do for their basic kits.

My stock E350 shocks were long enough to still allow some downwards travel after installing the spacers, but my buddies E150 shocks would not even bolt back up at ride height with the spacers, so you may or may not need longer shocks.

Here's some cams similar to what I'm talking about: Alignment Caster Camber Bushing Caster Camber Bushing Fits 80 04 Ford F 250 | eBay

If you play your cards right, you can be leveled and aligned for ~$150-$200.

You are correct! The factory C/C bushing is non adjustable. Factory shocks are too short.
I plan on doing a write up on this project when I'm done to point people in the right direction and parts from the start. I searched the web a couldn't find any real answers before starting this.