6.0 PSD long crank cold, no start hot

[Tapatio]

2006 6.0 PSD with 136k. I started experiencing longer than normal crank times about 6 months ago. When cold it would take 4-5 seconds before the engine would start. A little faster when hot. Then one day it didn't start at all when hot. Called my mechanic and he said, let it cool down, it will probably start. Ended up he was right.

The general cause for this type of problem is a leak in the high presure oil system. The fuel injectors are actuated by high pressure oil (500psi-4000psi). The engine won't start if the pressure is less than 500psi. The fix in my case was to replace the high pressure stand pipes and dummy plugs. According to my Ford mechanic this is a common issue for '04 and later 6.0's and the updated parts "never fail".

Moral of story is if you are in the middle of nowhere and you have the same symptoms, don't drain your battery trying to start it, just wait a few hours and let the engine cool down.

Updated stand pipes and dummy plugs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTBo541gqg0

[WhitH]

Agreed with Tapatio, I had the same thing on mine. The cost isn't bad if you're already in there doing something else to the top end. Its a good proactive move.

[Flux]

Same thing happened on my 06 F250. Had it towed to the dealer. It started cold. Stand Pipes.

Happened when I shut down the engine to order chicken nuggets at Burger King for the kids, who were in the back seat at the time. Kind of funny me pushing the rig backwards out of the drive through. Did get the food and they grubbed while waiting for Mom to come get us.

[carringb]

The updated stand-pipes may never fail, just beware that a leak anywhere in the HPO system, including cracks in the HPOP, will cause the same issues.

And yes, good advice on letting it cool. Also a good reason to have an engine scanner that you can configure to show ICP (injection control pressure) and ICP duty cycle.

[ShuttlePilot]

Hi Tapatio, Glad to hear you were able to get fixed and not have it happen somewhere in the middle of no where. It's also cool that you shared one of Ron Huxell's (A.K.A. dieseltechron) video's. Since I prefer to change parts in my driveway at a time of my choosing several years ago I dug into my 6.0 to change the oil cooler, the EGR cooler and a bunch of other 6.0 weak parts preemptively before a failure. I wanted to change the dummy plugs and standpipes but wasn't sure if it was possible without lifting the body. Then one day Ron posted this video proving it was possible without lifting the body.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YdoXP5PAqL4

After watching the video a bunch of times and getting the parts, down in the valley of the 6.0 I went again. Now that I've been this far into my engine compartment a few times I carry a tool roll that has only and all the tools needed to dig down to the oil cooler in the van. Not that I would need to do that in the middle of no where but as you know just because you have a new idler pulley in hand and can see the bad one doesn't mean you can get to it without digging.

Anyway, just wanted to support the thread with more info and say yes everyone should not be running on stock dummy plugs, stand pipes or o'rings. Also, if your confident in your mechanic skills and you have the time you can change them in the driveway. And a big thanks to Ron Huxell who helped a lot of us. R.I.P.

-Eric

[arctictraveller]

What fails on the stand pipes? They look like steel lines in the photo, so is it the o rings?

[dmeade0]

Thanks to everyone on this thread.

I had the same symptoms and you all pointed me in the right direction. For me it was the high pressure pump that had problems.

Thanks again,

David