Additional Driving Lights - DIY

sdwindansea · 07-18-2008, 01:00 PM

I'm finally at the point where I want to improve the lighting on our SMB while driving. I'm not concerned about highway driving, but this would be for back roads and off road use. Obviously the standard headlights on the E350 are pretty miserable.

We currently only have the standard front bumper. I will most likely bolt the lights directly to this bumper. I had considered adding a removable light bar just forward of the PH, but this would add considerable money and complexity to the wiring. I was hoping to install the lights myself, but I have never done this before. Has anyone done this before? If yes, any references on how to do this? Specifically, how does wiring work? Do you go directly to the battery or can you utilize the something pre-existing under the hood? Or, am I crazy to do this myself?

Also, any suggestions on the actual lights you would recommend? As always thanks for the help.

**BroncoHauler** · 07-18-2008, 01:50 PM

Installation all depends on how comfortable you are with tackling it yourself, and how much time you have. I will say the engine compartment of any newer vehicle is very cramped, and a van is even more so.

I had 3 Hella HIDs on my SMB (two broad beams, one pencil beam). I've only played around with them a few times, but if they're actually operating properly, I would never spend that kind of money on them. I'm not impressed with their performance. FWIW, I don't think the factory headlamps are bad.

Here's a good source for lights, wiring, switches...

http://www.rallylights.com/

Herb

**BroncoHauler** · 07-18-2008, 02:06 PM

Another option, is this bumper/light bar from Camburg (Huntington Beach).

From their website (unsure how current the prices are).

This front bumper is 100% bolt on! Comes complete with 3 light tabs, powder coated black or grey and all grade 8 hardware. 1 3/4" tube construction, aluminum skid plate, and MIG welded!
$1295.00 no lights
$1595.00 with 3 Hella 4000 lights

Herb

jage · 07-18-2008, 02:12 PM

1. Relay
When you buy lights, get lights with a relay included. If you don't get a relay, you can get one separately, Autozone type stores carry the basic relay you need.

For lights, a relay has two tabs which close the relay. This will be what your switch is connected to, and the switch will actually close the relay.

Then (depending on the type of relay) two or three tabs will be connected when the relay is closed. One of these will be your 12v power, the other one, or other pair will be to your lights.

The purpose is that whatever 12v source you choose doesn't have to go through the switch to power your lights, it only goes through the relay.

2. Wiring
Getting the lights on is as simple as 12v positive and negative. Usually you can get your 12v negative as part of the bumper or you can attach to frame or screws or whatever. A bad ground can cause problems so getting it away from the bumper can help avoid some issues such as corrosion.

As far as positive goes you can take any 12v positive, including right off the battery. You can also use power from a fuse block (cleaner than putting a wire on your battery) that is on all the time, or find power (the block or wire or whatever) that is only on when the key is on.

3. To Brights or Not to Brights
You can add at some point (probably with another relay) a tie-in to your brights so that if the brights are on the lights can be on, and if the brights are off your lights cannot be on. In some states this is legally required. Opinions vary.

4. Fuse
You want a fuse somewhere on any power wire between the battery and the switch, relay or lights. It's not necessary to fuse between the relay and lights if you fused between the battery and the relay (although don't fuse between the lights and relay and not the battery and relay)

5. Confused yet?
Most kits for driving lights come with all this stuff and instructions, with the exception of tying into your brights.

In essence it's 12v+, Ground(-) and a switch and then you can get as fancy as you want on top of that.

6. Lights
My opinion is that Walmart lights are perfectly fine. I've only had one pair of high end lights (Lightforce currently on my van) and I'm not impressed. You can go really high end and get HID too. But for what you want, which is to have some extra offroad, the cheap lights should be fine.

Lights are by wattage, 50W and 100W are usually common in the cheap lights, and your state may have laws about covering them when not offroad. The higher the W the brighter the lights.

Let's see... Fog lights give a wide area of light and should be mounted as low as possible, and driving lights give narrow light and should be mounted high. Something in between is probably good, or both.

And I don't really think it's an issue in the van, but if you roof mount you need to check for glare- some guys will put lights on top and not be able to see because of the glare off their hood.

jage · 07-18-2008, 02:15 PM

Thanks for the Ninja Herb!@

Also for mounting, there is an F250 near me with just some holes drilled in the top of the bumper where it starts to curve, looks pretty nice with large lights.

sdwindansea · 07-18-2008, 02:51 PM

Thanks for all of the information Herb and Jage! Yes I'm confused now, but I also like to think (or pretend) that I'm good at learning new things. I may give this a try myself or I may wimp out. I'm not sure yet. From what I've read on other posts, it seems like the most difficult part is getting the wiring through the fireblock into the van to wire the switches. The SPOD seems like it would make things very simple, but it may be overkill for what I'm looking for. Regardless, I'll probably add driving and fog lights at the same time (separate switches).

Herb, I like the look of the Camburg bumper a lot. However, at the price you are approaching aluminess / road armor prices and they offer a lot more (winch box, recovery points) which I do not believe the Camburg setup does.

jage · 07-18-2008, 03:49 PM

The easiest place I've found to go through the firewall is a rubber grommet under the brake pedal.

Buy a kit with a switch and all the wiring and try to put it on yourself- it won't be nearly as confusing as reading about it.

**BroncoHauler** · 07-18-2008, 05:17 PM

The advantage of doing it yourself is you'll then understand how it was done. Have someone else do it, and if anything goes wrong, you'll have to educate yourself on it or pay someone to fix it.

Herb

sdwindansea · 07-18-2008, 05:56 PM

Thanks yet again. I spent some time under the van and it doesn't look like it is going to be much fun routing the wires and getting the wiring through the firewall. Oh well, I'll chalk it up to a learning experience when I do it

.

A couple more questions then since you've both basically convinced me to do it myself. Any recommended lighting kits for the application I described? Secondly, I was thinking of adding driving and fog lights. Would it make more sense for me to do one first, then the other later, or should I tackle them at the same time? Is a fused relay essentially a relay and a fuse combined? Finally, any recommended locations on the van for the relay(s)?

cellularSTEVE · 07-18-2008, 06:56 PM

Here is my write up with details and photos of how/where to run the wires:
http://sportsmobileforum.com/viewtop...highlight=spod

The sPOD is great, much easier to install than running relays and switches but since it is pricey it is best if you will be utilizing it to run multiple sets of lights (or other switched items).

In any case, it may take time to do it yourself but you will learn something and not worry about some shop hacking it together. BEcuase the van is hard to work on I do not trust alot of others to touch it.

If you need more details just ask. I learned how to do it by reading other posts and trying it the relay way and the sPOD way. At the end of the day you will be proud of your work.

steve