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Old 07-06-2008, 11:56 AM   #21
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Apparently ACE hardware carries it . . .
http://www.orchardshardware.com/blog/archives/191

Regards,

Keith

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Old 09-30-2008, 09:10 PM   #22
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Jage,

Thanks again for this write up. I know its been a while since you did it but I'm about to tackle the same project (minus the wall rebuild) of dynamatting and possibly insulating the fridge compartment.

I noticed that someone mentioned using styrofoam to try and insulate and that gave me an idea. I know they sell "sheets" of styrofoam at HomeDepot, etc that are about 1 1/2" thick. Do you remember if, after you installed the dynamat, there was enought room to cut some styrofoam chunks and lay on the top/back/bottom when you slid it back in to place? Or are the tolerances pretty tight?

Also, did you dynamat the bottom of the fridge as well? Is so, did one "roll" of the silver dynamat cover the whole job or did you buy 2?

Thanks again for the descriptions. I'm racking up a series of projects to complete prior to duck season this year and this is one of them.
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Old 10-15-2008, 05:57 PM   #23
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Well I tackled this little problem yesterday. In addition to using the Dynamat Extreme like Jage did (the thin heavy shiny matting) I also added a layer of Dynamat Liner. The liner material is basically 1/4" thick thermo/acoustic foam. After covering the outside with the mat, I just put the Dynamat liner on top of that.

My goals were to quiet the fridge and also insulate it for a longer duty-cycle. After completing the whole project I turned it on and I think its a little quieter. Its hard to tell while at home because there's other noises around compared to back in the middle of the forest but I do think it was a little quieter. I'll definately be able to tell next time we are out.

A couple of notes for those interested in taking on the project:
1. The smaller fridge is MUCH easier to take out than the larger one featured above. The smaller fridge has two screws on the side (with black caps probably) and then 4 screws right in the front around the door. That's it! 2 mins to uninstall and pull out.

2. Although I have a LOT of experience working with Dynamat (I used to be an installer) I would say you can plan on about 2 hours worth of work. That's about how long it took me and I put on two layers.

3. The tolerances for width are fairly tight. My fridge had the same "scar" on the sheet metal siding similar to Jage's above where the bracket rubbed against the side of the fridge.

4. The 1/4" foam Dynaliner is VERY spongy so my plan was to install it and then "squeeze" the fridge back into place hopefully putting a little buffer/isolation between the outer-fridge wall and the bracket bolts. That worked perfectly.

5. The fridge does need circulation so you can't just go in there and plug the whole space up. I did NOT put insulation on the bottom of the fridge because that would have blocked the air too much and even with the foam installed on the top there was plenty of room for air to move.

I didn't put a stopwatch on the fridge before I did this so I will have to go with subjective thoughts around "is it running less now" but I spend a lot of time in the van so I should be able to tell if the change is meaningful.

In truth, I suspect that the source of the "noise" and vibration that our fridges make are related to 2 things: Resonation with the cabinets that the thing is bolted to/wedged against. The resonation of the "feet" of the fridge with the floor of the van. I didn't try to isolate that contact point at the feet of the fridge because that would change all the screw holes but I'm fairly certain that in order to really quiet the fridge, that would need to be padded somehow.

If anyone has questions, fire away. Its a pretty simple project but Dynamat isn't cheap and neither is Dynaliner (although effective normally). I'm hoping it paid off.

Next project: Link 10 voltmeter!
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Old 10-15-2008, 08:03 PM   #24
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Interesting. The larger fridge breaths over the top and I had to squeeze a fair amount just to get the dynamat in, without the acoustic foam.

I'm pretty sure I mentioned this, but I wish I'd removed and siliconed the screws in the surrounding counter and top. The majority of my noise comes from the loose counter above the fridge, and I'm expecting the screws to back themselves out as so many others in my van have.
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Old 10-15-2008, 10:20 PM   #25
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That's a good point. I did find a couple of the screws holding the counter-top in place, etc that had backed out and I tightened them up. I didn't go through all of them as I was in a bit of a hurry and since getting my fridge out seemed radically easier than yours I knew I could just go back and tighten them up whenever. I need to have a big "tighten" party and haul down every socket and screwdriver I own and just go around trying to tighten things. The fillings in my teeth have gotten loose from some of the roads I've been on so I have to think I will start loosing hard parts if I'm not careful and check them.
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:37 PM   #26
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Re: Dynamatting the Fridge and Rebuilding the Wall

Glad I went back to re-read this thread. Jage, as you know, I'm in the throws of a fridge replacement. Although the fridge is still in its unremoved stage, I was able to determine the van wall is largely uninsulated behind the fridge. Damn! Also, no wall board. Damn damn! However, from your post, the big black "L" bracket bolts through the van floor. Awesome! I should be able to now remove the rear facing cabinet wall so as to remove the fridge. I will go with some dry erase board (via Home Depot though) and some regular insulation (I don't want to order and wait for Dynamat). I've read some bad stories regarding using expanded foam on metal in vehicles (traps moisture), so there'll be none of that. Anway, thanks for the pics as you saved my bacon regardling the "L" bracket. For those that didn't see this in the fridge thread, here is my progress and the wall I ran up against. Sorry Jage, but now looks like I wont' have to Sawzall the fridge in half to remove it.

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Old 04-20-2009, 03:24 PM   #27
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Re: Dynamatting the Fridge and Rebuilding the Wall

That's o.k. you can sawzall it in the driveway. Will be less of a mess in the van anyway.
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Old 04-20-2009, 03:44 PM   #28
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Re: Dynamatting the Fridge and Rebuilding the Wall

You should be able to find Dynamat or something similar at almost any car audio shop.


Herb
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Old 04-20-2009, 04:03 PM   #29
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Re: Dynamatting the Fridge and Rebuilding the Wall

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bronco_hauler
You should be able to find Dynamat or something similar at almost any car audio shop.
Herb
Herb, here's the closest thing to an audio shop in my hood:


Perhaps there's something in the ghetto (although I must admit, I'm a little scared of getting jacked when I drive through there):


Even checked the mega mall in the burbs and nada here either:


Looks like I'm stuck with regular old insulation with kraft paper on one side. that's what SMB used, so I imagine it should work fine.
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Old 04-21-2009, 12:52 PM   #30
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Re: Dynamatting the Fridge and Rebuilding the Wall

Great photo essay. Thanks. I may have done an "oops" on my 3.0. I pulled the fridge and insulated the inside of the cabinet rather than the outside of the fridge itself. All I know at this time is it's quiter, but now wonder if I should have just covered the outside of the fridge instead. The Reflectix was only $10 a roll at Home Depot so I wouldn't mind pulling the fridge again and starting over if I have done it bass-ackwards. Any ideas/comments greatly appreciated.

Philip
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