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Old 04-25-2010, 10:08 AM   #11
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: newark,OHIO
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Re: Heater core input hose?

I did that to my 85 a few years ago..but I had to install the diversion type valve (just dumps it back into the return line) so it didnt dead-head my heater core..

the diffrence IS NOTICABLE!!!

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85 E250 Turbo 6.9 vegiburner
92 explorer (well the vin tag and body skins are anyway)
09 jeep wrangler unlimted...for walmart wheelin!!

nothing scares my wife like my boredom and a welder!!
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Old 04-25-2010, 08:28 PM   #12
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Re: Heater core input hose?

So, I got off my butt today and did this project. Took several hours, but I messed with other things along the way. A lot of the time was also spent getting a plan in place.

I came to the conclusion that the lower hose going through the fire wall is the input to the heater core. It's amazing the route the hose takes from the water pump to the fire wall. This also happens to be the easier hose to reach.
(Not sure why this photo imported rotated. Look at it sideways I guess.)


Cut the hose and removed a clamp that was on the hose that was securing an aluminum insert inside the hose. For some reason, they must need to reduce the hose diameter on the inlet. Not sure why, but I ended up re-inserting this aluminum reducer later.



I trimmed some of the hose bend and inserted the valve on the water pump side of the hose. I'll have to re-position it when I add the coolant filter "T" later.



I then bought a couple feet of 3/4" heater hose, extra hose clamps, a couple straight splices and a couple right angle splices. I ended up cutting the rest of the curved part of the hose out and extended the tubing out further and used the two right angle splices to make a U-turn.



As I said above, I re-inserted the aluminum reducer that was previously in the tube.




I mounted the vacuum switch on the side of an electrical sort of box in the front of the engine compartment. The switch happened to snap very nicely into a slot. I then put a dab of silicon behind it to stabilize it a bit.


There was a very convenient vacuum splice nearby to remove and insert the "T" that came with the kit.



I routed the vacuum switch into the cab and mounted the supplied on/off switch below the high idle switch that SMB installed.

No leaks. Took it for a test drive and the A/C seemed colder. When I got home I opened up the valve and you could certainly tell a difference in temp out of the vents. Seems to work as advertised. I do wish that when the switch was "On" that water was going through the core and not flowing when "Off", but unfortunately, the switch closes the valve when "On" and opens the valve when "Off". Not major, just would have been more intuitive the other way to me.

One more project checked off my list.

Phil
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