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Old 10-11-2017, 09:04 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Glider View Post

Another thing that occurs to me is to do a spring-loaded pin hinge. That would be a zero-clearance item. If I can figure out how to build it.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hinges/=19rlrfs

Link isn't working as intended, but there are spring-loaded hinge pins if you click on "hinges"....then "quick disconnect surface mount hinges"

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Old 10-11-2017, 10:48 PM   #12
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https://www.mcmaster.com/#hinges/=19rlrfs

Link isn't working as intended, but there are spring-loaded hinge pins if you click on "hinges"....then "quick disconnect surface mount hinges"
boywonder, thank you for your ongoing stream of ideas. The McMaster site is giving me more than a few things to think about.

My retractable pin hinge idea looks like the image below. The pin tunnel does not mount on the surface of the shelf, but is drilled into the shelf. I think the closest thing I have seen to it commercially is a bifold door pin, but that's not quite it, either. I'm going to continue thinking--and looking to see what I can find from McMaster.

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Old 10-12-2017, 07:09 AM   #13
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You could easily build that spring-rod setup with parts from mcmaster, however....installing it would be a little tricky and removing it would be a lot trickier.

Here is mcmaster's ground shafting....I would use 300 series stainless also known as 18-8 stanless....affordable and corrosion resistant.

17-4 and 400 series are very hard to work with (17-4 doesn't play well with some other stainless types and 400 series is harder than woodpecker lips)

https://www.mcmaster.com/#=19s2qmw

...and drilling straight holes that long would be challenging....even with a drill press or mill.

I like the idea, though......beats the pants off of a piano hinge.

Perhaps a delrin (acetal) 3/4 x 3/4" strip screwed to the edge of the shelf with the long holes.......easy to machine and slippery....or perhaps two separate strips, one on each side......

..just thinkin'

You could always drill a hole for the rod through the left side of the cabinet; that would allow for easy assembly and disassembly, then pop in a plastic finishing cap (also available from mcmaster) which would be visible from the outside.
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:42 AM   #14
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How about the dead-simple setup that SMB uses (or used to use? My van is a 1995....) on their builds for flip-up countertop surfaces?

In my van there's an auxiliary food-prep/dining countertop square that swings up into place just like you're envisioning. To secure itself there's merely a simple hinged prop-rod (actually a piece of 3/16" thick plate steel that's about 1.5" wide, and ~8" long) that swings out on a diagonal when the countertop surface is swung up into place.

There's a bolted-in-place "footer" on the underside of the countertop that the base of the prop-rod then settles against positively to stay in place. Not exactly sure how the geometry of such an arrangement works out for your opening, but it seems workable. No significant weight limit to worry about.

(Perhaps this option has already been discussed, I don't think I caught that though.)
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Old 10-12-2017, 09:00 AM   #15
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Mike.....can you post a pic? Maybe some good ideas.....

I spent some more time thinking about this on the drive to work....the long rods and through hole can be two stainless dowel pins (say 1/4" dia x 1 1/2" long) and the shelf can have two separate say 2 1/2" deep 1/4" holes..one on each side. This solves the long hole problem at the cost of needing two springs instead of one.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#dowels/=19s45su

An attachment method still needs to be worked out...so that it can be taken off when needed...
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Old 10-12-2017, 10:23 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boywonder View Post
Mike.....can you post a pic? Maybe some good ideas.....
Here ya go!



....and....

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Old 10-12-2017, 10:40 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boywonder View Post
https://www.mcmaster.com/#hinges/=19rlrfs

Link isn't working as intended, but there are spring-loaded hinge pins if you click on "hinges"....then "quick disconnect surface mount hinges"
Hey Scott --
Just followed this link of yours, and saw on that page (further down below) these nifty swing up/lock shelf support hinges --- are these an item you've been indicating / considering?

Fold-Away Brackets for Drop-Leaf Shelves

https://www.mcmaster.com/#hinges/=19s5d6z




They look (at least in these simple diagrams) like the same kind of 2-link hinged support struts you find under antique drop-leaf tables. Very sturdy.
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Old 10-12-2017, 12:33 PM   #18
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RE: your spring loaded hinge pin idea.

You only need to make one side retractable the other can be a stationary pin.

you can buy many ready made spring loaded barrel latches that can be used as a pin pivot hinge.

If you proceed with your idea as drawn , in lieu of a long bored hole you can cut a notch / groove across the board to capture the pins / pivot bar.

IMO you can accomplish the same pivot with two shank bolts .
grind the head off one bolt , round over. (left blind hole)
drill a through hole on the other side to capture the cutting board. (right / sink side)
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Old 10-12-2017, 07:53 PM   #19
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I'm lovin' all of the ideas. I'm going to dink around with this over the weekend; I'll let you know what I come up with. If you come up with anything else, don't hesitate to add to the thread.

Thanks, guys!
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Old 10-13-2017, 10:54 AM   #20
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Glider I like this idea .

Instead of a flush mount flip up panel hinged at the top,
I would have a flush mount panel hinged on the left (cabinet door)
and on this cabinet door I would mount the flip up cutting board.

with this plan you use standard door hinges , standard hinge on
flip up cutting board .
also you now have a place to mount a stiff leg / folding shelf support.

You also have the ability to swing the cutting board to the side in order to
better access the stove top and the cabinet .

you can even install a cabinet door storage / organizer on the interior of
the door.
~ Mark
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