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Old 04-13-2015, 11:54 PM   #1
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If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

... keep it in.

In Part I, I added hood louvers to let the heat out http://sportsmobileforum.com/viewtop...andle+the+heat. In Part II, I work to keep the heat in the up and down pipes.

After all sorts of reading up, I decided to ceramic coat the up and down pipes and wrap the down pipe.

Rear of engine before


Up pipe before


All pipes ceramic coated. They are works of art now. Too bad their hidden under the dog house.


Now with wrap on down pipe.


Wrapped with this.


Then coated the wrap with this.




and put it all back together.


Don't have more than a few miles on it yet, but hoping for some improvement on our upcoming trip to Utah. Badger wrapped his up pipes too. I was on the fence and the ceramic coater said it may not be a good idea due to the heat being held in on all the welds. Last I checked with Badger, his is still in good shape after a few years. I may go back and wrap the up pipes later if I don't think I'm getting enough from just the ceramic coating. Badger also installed a turbo blanket. I was thinking of that too, but maybe later?

Will report back after some use.

Phil
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Old 04-14-2015, 01:53 AM   #2
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

Cool mod. So, is a ceramic coater sort of like a powder-coater. I presume this isn't a spray can type dealio.
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Old 04-14-2015, 09:32 AM   #3
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

Quote:
So, is a ceramic coater sort of like a powder-coater.
Yep, they do powder coating at this shop too. I was surprised how many ceramic coating jobs they had for exhaust / headers. I'm always learning ...
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Old 04-14-2015, 09:45 AM   #4
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

I'm curious what your heat numbers are getting to prior to the mod? Killing the kitty lowered my EGTs some 200F but I realize you can't get away with that in CA.

Normal operation for me with an Atlas40 FICM tune and 65 rwhp PCM tune is 700-800F. It will climb to 1000-1100F on a long grade. But pyro is mounted post-turbo so it's probably a bit hotter than that. Sometimes I think we get too worried about heat. Getting the turbo hot once in a while is good for burning off the coke.

Did the louvers make much of a difference?
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Old 04-14-2015, 02:02 PM   #5
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

I don't monitor EGT's (I know, gasp) with a gauge, I monitor with my wife. If she is complaining that her left leg feels like it's about to catch fire, I know EGT's are getting on the high side. We'll see how many extreme EGT wife alerts I get on my Utah trip.

I contemplated putting a probe in while I had it all apart, but since I don't pull any heavy trailers and don't insist on going 75MPH going over the Sierra, I passed for now. I also just bought an a tuner and plan on trying 5star 50HP "daily tow" tune. In discussions with them, seemed like the right tune for what I'm looking for. I also had them lower my max RPM to 3200 (at WOT or starting out on a long hill, it likes to hold gears to around 3400 - 3500 which "feels" like over rev'ing to me with this engine) and adjusted for tire size. Haven't loaded it yet though. Will be a couple weeks until I get to try it out.

We'll see how it all works out and I'll report back.

Phil
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Old 04-14-2015, 03:37 PM   #6
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

The tune is worth it for the better shift points on the tranny as well. If your watching EOT you know when it's getting hot. Seems like that's somewhat of a good proxy for how hot the turbo might be getting. And the come down much faster than EOT with the heat needle coming down on the wife-o-meter the slowest
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Old 04-15-2015, 04:51 PM   #7
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

I hadn't heard of this mod before now but it looks like you saved yourself $700 for your efforts. Well-played.
http://sinisterdiesel.com/i-18881575-si ... -wrap.html
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Old 04-15-2015, 05:32 PM   #8
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

There's another company Strokers Unlimited who focusses on ceramic coating and bellow upgrade for these pipes. I could have sent him mine and all in would have been around $350 (no wrapping) before tax / shipping. He was a nice guy to work with by email and always prompt with answering my questions. I ended up just having coated locally and foregoing the upgraded bellows (flex joints).

http://www.strokersunlimited.com/intro.html

I have no direct experience with SU other than the prompt email replies and on-line info I found on them. He seems to have a good following though.

Phil
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Old 04-17-2015, 10:15 AM   #9
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

Thinking about this some more and it appears it's really two different issues. Getting rid of excess engine heat versus interior heat. I suspect wrapping the pipe helps with limiting heat to the interior of the vehicle but does it really help dissipate engine bay heat or possibly even make it worse? Seems like hood louvers as described in your part I are the answer to that. Better dog house insulation might be the ticket for the passenger. I'm sure you've probably already tackled that one.
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Old 04-21-2015, 04:39 PM   #10
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Re: If you can't handle the heat (Part II) ...

"Normal operation for me with an Atlas40 FICM tune and 65 rwhp PCM tune is 700-800F. It will climb to 1000-1100F on a long grade. But pyro is mounted post-turbo so it's probably a bit hotter than that. Sometimes I think we get too worried about heat. Getting the turbo hot once in a while is good for burning off the coke."

Joe - You need to mount the pyro from the manifold to turbo. The turbo cools the heat considerably and the temperature reading is lower that what the turbo experiences. I would move the temp probe when you replace the pipes.

-j
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