Making a Panion/Manfort Bumper [split]

[skrivan]

i was really impressed with [panion's bumper] and have started my own. I wasnt so lucky to score a cheap piece of steel tube like the Manfort, so i had a piece of 1/8 inch thick sheet steel bent into a "U-Shape", which i'll use upside down. I welded (brazed, actually) a base plate to the bottom of it to create a box. My main reason for this is to create another place to keep stuff, like flyrods and those fold-up chairs. i have no idea how to insert pics on this thing...i stuck some in my gallery though.

[admin edited for context, splitting]

[skrivan]

[jage]

Split to a new topic, think your project deserves its own...

[panion]

Your bumper looks great. Good idea bending the 1/8th inch. It will be much lighter than mine I'm sure. I've just gathered the parts to start my front bumper.

Keep us posted. I'd like to see more pictures when you finish.

[skrivan]

i'm about 90% done with this bumper project. I really just need to wire the rear lights. the water pump works great. Last year i mounted an extra "under-van" 10 gallon tank and now i can just fill the main interior tank using a Surflo pump i stuck in the left side of the interior of the bumper. It's nice to have the spare pump, too, just in case.

I picked up the 'hatch' hinges and latches at a truck-box place here in town. the curved 'step' is great and having a nice flat platform to stand on is also very convenient. I also built a swing-out box for the left side, but i havent painted it yet. the inside of the 'box' is lined with rhino-liner-type of urethane, which was incredibly easy to apply. i plan to move the licence plate onto the bumper as well.

i have to open the right barn door to access the right hatch, but i'll probably just shorten the ladder 1 step some other time (it needs a new paintjob anyway).

if i had to total the cost up:

steel----$210
lights----$24
hardware---$40
primer, paint, liner---$120.

time.......at least 30 hours. weight is right at 100 lbs.

more pics in the gallery.

[BroncoHauler]

Joe,

I really like how you did the latches for the hatches. On the hatches themselves, what sort of gasket did you use around the hatch hole? Looks like some sort of u-channel gasket. I've been hoping to find something suitable like that for the Aluminess hatch covers, to help keep some water and debris out. So far, everything I've tried has been too stiff and won't form around the hatch cover curvature.


Herb

[skrivan]

herb---

http://www.mcmaster.com/#edge-molding/=lsdkm

i got style 7 in neoprene rubber, i think, for 1/8 inch thick material. very flexible. i used it on bothe the covers and the hole's edge for a double seal. i havent 'water tested' it yet, (and i'm sure it wont be waterproof, but it should help a lot.

joe

[skrivan]

sorry..the link will get you close. then click on "edge-trim" in the upper right 'catalog' page area and it should come up. if you want, i can send you my leftover scrap (maybe a foot or so).

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by skrivan

sorry..the link will get you close. then click on "edge-trim" in the upper right 'catalog' page area and it should come up. if you want, i can send you my leftover scrap (maybe a foot or so).

Thanks for the link! Lots of options of what I think I need. Looks like I need to make some measurements (thickness of the metal of the hatch hole, circumferences of the hatch holes).

Have you found the edge trim stays in place, or did you glue it in place? Out of curiosity, which one did you use for your application?


Herb

[skrivan]

i used the style 7 neoprene...it stays in place unless you actually try to move it, but i guess in the field under real use it might move. i havent glued it, but i did test epoxy on it and it would hold it. i like the non-glued for now because i can make changes later on. as i said, i can mail you some scrap. if you dont have an account at mcMaster, it might be hard to get the stuff. ( i can get it for you though)