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11-29-2018, 07:40 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Western Colorado
Posts: 1,228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsBeast
While planning my own propane locate project, I think I came across a fill relocation kit, or something, maybe on the Manchester site. The big downside would be reaching under to turn on an off the use valve, you're supposed to close the valve before driving.
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I'm running a 5.9 gal Manchester propane tank with a remote fill between the frame rails between the battery and underfloor storage. I have a remote fill system plumbed to the drivers side panel down low. It's worked very well.
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Desert Solitaire
2003 7.3L EB 4x4
Timberline 4x4 conversion
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12-06-2018, 10:02 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: PNW or maybe Baja Sur
Posts: 381
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You may want to look at small propane tank options. I have the standard SMB tank that is (from memory) ~6-7gal, and I use maybe 1/4-1/3 tank per year for a month travelling..heat and stove. YMMV, but I never fill it to keep weight a little down....
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Pac NW and warmer places
1995 E250 EB 5.8 2WD on to a new owner
2006 E350 EB Elect Top 2WD
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12-06-2018, 10:05 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 552
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I think i have decided to just relocate my air compressor to under the the back like i have seen someone do on here. Then just get a standard tank for the side.
Cutting it this weekend hopefully.
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12-06-2018, 10:29 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: PNW or maybe Baja Sur
Posts: 381
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Note that location tends to be pretty dusty if driving on those types of roads....Not sure, but the typical forward left side may be a little less so. In any case the compressor can be protected a bit wherever placed. This is one I've struggled with...
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Pac NW and warmer places
1995 E250 EB 5.8 2WD on to a new owner
2006 E350 EB Elect Top 2WD
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12-06-2018, 10:31 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: San Clemente, CA
Posts: 552
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Yeah, there isobviously a filter on the intake of the compressor, and it will only run while stationary, so it shouldnt suck in too much dust. But yea, will at least have a skid plate on the bottom for protection, maybe ill add a little more for dust.
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12-06-2018, 10:46 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: TN
Posts: 10,241
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I did one in the back, between 25 gallon water tank and rear bumper. This was an RB too. It was tight but it worked awesome. I ran the fresh air intake through the floor using existing holes for the rear AC and put the filter in a cabinet. It was perfectly clean still when I sold the rig.
The pics etc. are deep in the Rusty build.
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12-06-2018, 10:59 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: PNW or maybe Baja Sur
Posts: 381
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Good idea on the intake. I just replaced the carbon canister and blew a lot of dust debris out of the evap canisters, etc due to the infamous slow fuel fill issue...Relocated the intake/exhaust vent for that to the gas fill tube area from near the bumper..per..TSB 7-15-01 attached...
__________________
Pac NW and warmer places
1995 E250 EB 5.8 2WD on to a new owner
2006 E350 EB Elect Top 2WD
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12-06-2018, 09:47 PM
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#28
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 4
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may be late to the party, but you might consider fabbing your own cross member independent of the hitch. I just went through this after removing my spare tire carrier and deciding to swap out a bumper to one with an integrated hitch.
In the swap process, the rear squatted down and rails angled out enough that the holes in my bolt-in shelf from Ujoint no longer aligned with the welded nuts on the frame. It was a bit of a trick to pull the rails back in and put everything back together and would have been a lot easier had I anticipated the problem.
Yes, the hitch will do the trick but you might want a back up bar in case you ever have a reason to pull the hitch. Only speaking up because I just learned this one - the hard way.
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01-01-2019, 07:44 AM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Posts: 50
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This just made my day. Hilarious! Thank you
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