Roof issues - slightly caving in and leaking

PlayOutside · 01-16-2017, 12:16 PM

Hi Gang,

Our ol' 1992 lady has sprung a good roof leak. She probably had it for a while, but we never realized just how bad it is until the recent good rains here in SoCal.

The roof has had a slight dent ever since we got her, right where the two front straps lock down the roof. So we had some water pooling there. The gel coat is gone in a few spots as well, and I wouldn't be surprised if the roof has a few cracks after all the sun exposure over the years. There is no obvious spot where the leak may be.

We are pondering which route to go, especially considering the age of everything.

I thought that the easiest way would be just to spray the top with liner and ignore the dent, but the hubby thinks that maybe we should address the dent while we are at it.

On the other hand, working on the dent may force it to crack even more?

I'd greatly appreciate your thoughts on this. We aren't looking for a "beauty makeover", more for an affordable and durable solution. Hubby is crafty, so DIY ideas are appreciated as well

Thanks!

Anette

**daveb** · 01-16-2017, 03:39 PM

I'd look into refinishing the top and make sure there is no rot or other issues. Gooseberry was selling the bolt/washer kit. After it's done the top liner spray will help protect it for a long time.
Here is just one of a few posts on repair:
http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...tion-4355.html

arctictraveller · 01-16-2017, 05:33 PM

[QUOTE=PlayOutside;I'd greatly appreciate your thoughts on this. We aren't looking for a "beauty makeover", more for an affordable and durable solution. Hubby is crafty, so DIY ideas are appreciated as well

Thanks!Anette[/QUOTE]

When I installed a Fantastic fan in my roof, I used a product called Dicor self leveling sealant on top of the bolts and the seams. Dicor Self-Leveling Lap Sealant - White - Dicor 501LSW-1 - Roof Maintenance & Repair - Camping World It's designed for use on horizontal RV roof surfaces, including rubber, TPO, metal, fiberglass, aluminum or wood. Seals along roof edges, around vent covers, vent pipes, air conditioners and screw heads. Remains flexible. UV-stabilized to prevent deterioration and discoloration.

If you wanted a quick fix that might last years, this could do it. It's been on my roof for a couple summers and still looks like the day I put it on. Obviously the best repair will be to remove all the hardware and re-bed it, but until you have time to do that Dicor will certainly stop the leaks and will probably last years, unless the bolts are moving around and break the seal Just make sure everything is as clean as possible prior to applying it. .

86Scotty · 01-16-2017, 05:38 PM

Fiberglass is really easy to repair, even for a first timer, but even easier is taking it to a boat shop somewhere and letting them assess the issue. I haven't seen or heard of many PH tops caving so you may want to make sure your fix doesn't just become a band-aid.

Let us know what you find out!

Nrobert10 · 01-16-2017, 07:58 PM

If your roof is caving it at the bolts I belt the top as come delaminated from the plywood. Push down on the top of the fiberglass in the front of the top. I would bet it flexs pretty easy. If it does it probably separated. You can drill two holes and pump it full of micro balloons and resin. Then repair the holes and raptor line it.

PlayOutside · 01-17-2017, 01:09 PM

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and help!

Looks like we opened a can of worms.... The hubby removed some of the wood panels from the inside and exposed the bottom of the pop top. Seems like the fiberglass has indeed delaminated from the plywood inside, and that the plywood is completely rotted out and moldy. All screws going into and through the wood panels are looking like apple cores - rusted into oblivion.
So I guess this issue has been cooking for a long time, and the latest rains were just too much moisture to be soaked up.

Sooooo, onward bound to this latest and so far greatest issue we have had with the Mothership....

The question is now how to clean or dry out whatever is left inside the fiberglass, and then take Nrobert10's advice to refill it and raptor line it.

Nrobert10 · 01-17-2017, 01:28 PM

Can you post some pictures? If the plywood inside the fiberglass is soaked and rotten I don't think there is much you can do besides major repairs. I would guess those cost will be higher then just getting a new top from SMB or going with a fixed top. Sorry about your luck maybe somebody else might have some insight.

arctictraveller · 01-17-2017, 02:05 PM

We replace rotted fiberglass core on boats all the time. I've never done a SMB top, but my guess is that you would want to remove it, and turn it upside down on some sawhorses. From there, you need to expose and cut away all the rotted wood. Fit new plywood in it's place and then fiberglass it back together. Simple and done. If you have never worked with fiberglass before, there are some excelent resources on the web, try this one. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...aintenance.pdf or this one: WEST SYSTEM | Projects | Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration - Fiberglass deck repair-Part 1, Replacing damaged balsa core

It sounds much harder than it really is, and it will cost far less than a new top.Best of luck.

rallypanam · 01-17-2017, 02:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

We replace rotted fiberglass core on boats all the time. I've never done a SMB top, but my guess is that you would want to remove it, and turn it upside down on some sawhorses. From there, you need to expose and cut away all the rotted wood. Fit new plywood in it's place and then fiberglass it back together. Simple and done. If you have never worked with fiberglass before, there are some excelent resources on the web, try this one. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...aintenance.pdf or this one: WEST SYSTEM | Projects | Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration - Fiberglass deck repair-Part 1, Replacing damaged balsa core

It sounds much harder than it really is, and it will cost far less than a new top.Best of luck.

+1.

Fiberglass isn't super fun to work with, but it's easy enough.. And, you don't have to worry about how pretty the work is, as it will be hidden by SMB headliner.

PlayOutside · 01-17-2017, 03:41 PM

Sounds like we are in for a SMB adventure of a different kind!

Since trying to fix the existing will be cheaper than replace it, we can risk wrecking it during the attempt

We'll wait until the weather has turned CA sunny for good and will go at it.

Turns out that our 4x4 shop does the liner all the time on other projects, so he'll apply it as soon as we fixed the fiberglass core and prepped the roof for the liner.

I'll report as we move ahead with this.
We'll definitely provide entertainment for you