Wow Redoval, nice work with the battery mount!! What are those??
My 4D is going in that exact position!!
They are Alcatel 145aH deep cycle batteries. These are maintained by a Go-Power solar system and power a 2000 watt Tripp-Lite inverter. We still need to add a wire and manual switch to connect them to the main batteries through a 200a PAC isolator in the event the mains go flat and he needs to start the van.
Scott
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2002 Ford E350 V10 Traveler
Vantage Optics Headlights
www.VantageOptics.com
Bulkheads work for areas where exposed metal lugs can be placed and not contacted by surrounding items. They are limited by the nature of the lug though since most are horizontal with the cable. I think my money would likely be spent on a Blue Sea Systems product; all of their other products I have are high quality regarding fit and finish.
Scott
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2002 Ford E350 V10 Traveler
Vantage Optics Headlights
www.VantageOptics.com
And yes, I have adhesive lined shrink tube from Ancor.
I have a dozen connections to make at least, so the crimping tool is a good buy.
What I learned about crimps is to make sure there are no gaps in the lug except for the cable entry and then use the adhesive shrink tube to completely seal it. Some lugs can have a gap on the front, but the tinned lugs typically do not, especially those that are marine grade.
Mouser has a good selection of the Heyco cord grips and nuts to go through the panels. they get big for the larger battery cables.
I have always been partial to soldering the lugs to the cable. I thought for sure that "Flux" would use that technique. Flux the heck out of everything, put the lug in the bench vise and apply torch. Fill the socket about half way with Rosin Core solder and keep it HOT. Slowly lower the cable into the socket, til it bottoms out. Keep it hot for a bit. Once it is all cooled down, apply the shrink. I use a right angle boot when I can to cover the lug and post.