Solar Setup

[86Scotty]

It is.

I am no metals guy and often have trouble thinking of what the doohickey I need is called. This is a huge problem sometimes when dealing with someone who actually DOES know what they are talking about (like Boywonder for instance) or when searching for something on Mcmaster Carr. By the way, if you aren't familiar with Mcmaster Carr it is a phenomenal research tool as well as a great place to get that certain doohickey.

So.....I call it angle iron/angle steel or aluminum angle. It's L shaped and long, in various sizes called 1"x1" angle etc. etc. Is that what you mean by channel Boywonder? I've always thought channel would be U shaped.

Thanks

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

It is.

I've always thought channel would be U shaped.

Thanks

https://www.google.com/search?q=6063...w=1366&bih=628

[Roccon99]

Ok, so I've got my solar all mapped out (thanks again Boywonder), but had a couple of last questions before I get started next week. Here's the plan:

1. 2 Renogy 100 W Solar Panels with MC4 attached, mounted using aluminum channel on purposely long stainless PH bolts

2. Into Y connections for running in parallel

3. Into Go Power plate

4. 10G solar wire from plate penetration outside of canvas through small gap in canvas on front driver side of van

5. Into wire loom

6. Male/Female MC4 Connector for disconnect ability in future, 20A fuse as well

7. Behind bulkhead from driver side to passenger side

8. Behind bulkhead from passenger seat, across barn doors, to first cabinet

9. Into cabinet connect to Morningstar remote

10. From remote, straight down into fuse, through floor n(hole already exists for fridge drain), to battery (along with temp sensor) in loom.

Questions:
1. Any particular recommendation for inline fuses - planning on using one 20A near the panels and one right after the controller.
2. Where in the heck would my stock battery isolator/separator be? I looked under the hood and can't find it anywhere. I'll try and post a pic later to see if anyone else can spot it.
3. Any other suggestions or concerns. I've worked through this quite a few times, so I'm hoping I have it all covered .

Thanks

[Bbasso]

Be careful of water penetration... otherwise you look to have a very nice list put together.
as for fuses, I have my blueseas fuse box handling that.https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Blad...e+sea+fuse+box
It just happened to be in the right place, kinda between the Solar CC and house batteries.

[Roccon99]

Thanks for the reassurance...excited to get this project started.

Originally Posted by Bbasso

Be careful of water penetration

Absolutely - I've had about all I can handle with water issues...so you can be sure that this will be done right. I'm actually planning on putting the entry plate on the very edge of the roof, beyond the canvas, and then feeding the wires in between the canvas and the roof. This will avoid having a penetration inside the main part of the roof...and though there will need to be a slight gap in the canvas to accommodate the wires, I'd much prefer that.

Originally Posted by Bbasso

It just happened to be in the right place, kinda between the Solar CC and house batteries.

I do have one fuse space left in my fuse box, so I could run the panels there. But, that would be another 5 feet past my house battery, and then the charge would have to flow back another 5 feet through the main cable. I think it would be worthwhile for me to go straight to the battery, especially since the controller will literally be right above the frame mounted house battery.

Thinking I'll just use something similar to THIS
Hook into with some MC4 connections on either end and should be good to go (I think ). Still wondering about the isolator though...sorry, meant to get a pic while it was still light out, but no luck.

[Bbasso]

Ha!
I have a bunch of those exact fuse holders, they are ok.
They have multi-strand wire but it's kinda thick and hard to solder...

[Roccon99]

Anybody ever use a fuse (circuit breaker) like

https://www.amazon.com/KUMEED-Inline...0a+inline+fuse

Here's why I like this:

1. It's clear so I can see what's going on (not that it matters since it's technically a circuit breaker).

2. It's easy to wire, no need to crimp, solder, etc - just screw down either side.

3. It's well contained

4. It doubles as a point which I can disconnect the wiring from inside the cab in case I ever need to remove the roof again for any reason.

5. Wouldn't have to replace a fuse if it did trip

But, I don't like it because:

1. Never know the quality of something like this, whereas a fuse is a fuse

2. If 20A is too little, or too much, I'll have to replace the whole unit, instead of just a new fuse.

I'll probably just go with something similar to the standard inline fuse I posted earlier, but just curious. The only issue with the standard inline fuse from before is that I'd like to have a disconnect option available. So, I'll probably put an MC4 connection on one end of it, which may get kind of clunky. I actually was thinking about MC4 on either side of the fuses, just to avoid soldering, but that would get very bulky.

[Roccon99]

Finally found the battery isolator! Surepower 1610.

So, was planning on replacing with BlueSea ACR:

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Systems-...000OTIPDQ?th=1

Is that a sufficient substitution? I'm trying not to go crazy on the spending, so I'm hoping this will get the job done (as opposed to the more expensive models that BlueSea offers) Is the wiring currently running to the SurePower the same as will be running to the ACR, so it's just a matter of swapping out connections from one to the other?

[Roccon99]

Also, just curious to hear opinions on wiring from the controller directly to the house battery vs the existing fuse block.

To the fuse block would save me fishing the cable through the floor, could use the existing fuse, wouldn't have to worry about the solar cable being exposed to any elements under the van. But, the wire would need to travel about 4-5 feet to the rear of the van to connect to the fuse block, and then the power would need to flow back another 4-5 feet to the battery...so I'd be adding about 10 feet of length to my run.

In summary - would the voltage loss be small enough that it would make sense to just wire to fuse block given the reasons listed above?

[86Scotty]

I was going to link you that exact Amazon ad. I love those inline breakers and have used them for years. The quality seems fine. I've tripped one or two so I know they work.

When you start bolting things together with stainless USE ANTISEIZE or expect to ruin some of your pretty new hardware. Ask me how I know!