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Old 04-06-2016, 05:53 PM   #11
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Skyrat,

Mine separated at the arms, but my fix is holding strong. It looks like the top piece separated from the glass. This is going to make gluing hard. It might be best to remove the arms and take the whole piece off then glue top rail on. When it dries, re-glue the arms back on.

Good Luck. Pm me if you want to talk about it.

TexGX

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Old 04-06-2016, 07:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arctictraveller View Post
As a desperation move, I'd try gluing the window back in with Sikaflex 5200. After getting every thing hospital clean and roughing up the glass, I think a bead of 5200 might just hold. We use the stuff in the marine industry all the time, but NEVER for something that will EVER need to be removed. It is the strongest adhesive I have ever seen and sticks to everything (including your hands and your hair if your not carefull) It's impossible to remove anything glued with the stuff. If you apply enough force, the substrate will come apart before the glue joint does. I'm not entirely sure how well it works on glass, but i'm guessing it will hold like crazy (not recomended for plastic though) If your comtemplating complete replacement of the window you have nothing to loose. Just don't get it in your hair

Robot Check
The link is for 3M 5200.
Sikaflex 5200 is something I could not find. While I could find Sikaflex 221, and Sikaflex 291. Sikaflex is more of a sealant with adhesive properties, while 3M 5200 is more of an adhesive. Or at least that is what a few threads on some sailing forums seem to say. Since there is a gasket all around the glass opening it seems that the adhesive strength is most important. Should I use 3M 5200 OR Sikaflex 221 / Sikaflex 291?
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:20 AM   #13
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After looking at 3M5200 the data sheet mentions that it is NOT recommended for use on glass. Peter did email me back and recommended a two part epoxy to glue it back together.

Does anyone here have specific experience with any epoxy use on a glass to metal bond?
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Old 04-12-2016, 05:32 PM   #14
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I did not clean to glass. There is a rubber coating along the edge. I cleaned old glue, but not the black edging. I glued to that.

TexGX
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Old 04-12-2016, 09:37 PM   #15
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Thanks TexGX!
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Old 05-01-2016, 11:05 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by TexGX View Post
I did not clean to glass. There is a rubber coating along the edge. I cleaned old glue, but not the black edging. I glued to that.

TexGX
Well, I decided to give it a go.
I called Peter at SMB West and he suggested using a 2 part epoxy to glue the window to the hinge. I have used a bunch of JB Weld products in the past and called the company to see what would work best on Glass and Metal. They told me to use JB Clear Weld.

So...
I prepped the window by taking off the rubber strip along the edge. Looks like a machine applied silicone or butyl bead that was left on the glass after the metal hinge and the glass separated. I razored off that strip the best I could and used a bunch of acetone to clean off what was left. This did have me wondering how much contact with actual glass I had made.

Yeah, that's right, the beauty of the Costco sugar box. Good for everything from portable spray booth to hinge support device to portable bench cushion to grocery organizer...


Then I went to prepping the hinge area. One of the things that had kept me up at night before was wondering how I would support the hinge so that the glass could rest firmly on it without having it swing into the pocket in the window behind itself. I chose to back the hinge with a piece of cardboard.


I then covered all the areas I did not want the epoxy to stick to with a soft stretchy, oily plastic, hoping the epoxy would not stick too well to it.


I did some more masking and using a bigger sheet of painters plastic I covered everything I did not want permanently glued to the van or the driveway. I applied, probably a bit too much, epoxy to the hinge and some to the mating surface of the glass, and then mounted the rollers into the vertical channels still affixed to the glass (they were already adjusted for the angle of the hinge determined by the cardboard backing that held the hinge out at a slight angle, and pressed the window into place.


Did I mention that you can use the same sugar box to keep the ladder used for leverage from scratching the side of a Sportsmobile? I LOVE those boxes. One of the real secret gems of Costco...

The epoxy was supposed to set in 6 minutes, cure in one hour, then attain full strength in 24 hours. Well, I held that pose for over 20 minutes. My better half spelled one side or the other a few times to keep me from screaming in pain, as I was applying enough pressure to maintain real contact with the hinge the whole time.


It looks good, but I am going to keep a cardboard template with me while off-roading, just in case the piece falls out and breaks. At least I will be able to keep out the dust if the repair fails. I will let you know how this works.
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