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Old 06-02-2018, 10:09 PM   #1
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1994 SMB Ford Draining Battery

Hi, new to me Sportsmobile is draining battery. I saw posts about the separator shorting out or radio switch but my model has an isolator - Sure Power 1202-3A.


Testing the isolator - it seems to pass with flying colors, only passing current one way, etc.


I do need to take some time to go through it methodically but any suggestions? Any frequent problems for those years?


Thanks.
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Old 06-02-2018, 11:17 PM   #2
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I finally got to try out my ac/dc clamp meter. When I disconnected the house connection and only had the vehicle side connected, there was no discernible current from the positive battery cable. When I connected the house cable, the current draw shot up.


So we know that either there is a current draw somewhere in the house side of electronics or the isolator isn't working as it's supposed to. Am I wrong in thinking that the isolator by definition should not allow current drain to the house side anyway?


Bad isolator despite the tests I did?



I was wondering if the thing was wired up incorrectly. Below is the illustration. I am not entirely sure on the orientation though. In other words, is this the orientation from looking at it straight ahead or is it from looking at the isolator from that side?



The current connections are, if I'm looking at the isolator from the side of the connections, with this name badge on top, I have the vehicle 12v connection on the left and house connection on the right.


I know the newer isolators have a slightly offset E connection to make orientation easier.
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isolator.JPG  
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Old 06-03-2018, 05:03 AM   #3
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1994 SMB Ford Draining Battery

It sounds like your house battery is probably shot. Do you have any idea when/if that was ever replaced? They’re usually good for 3-5 yrs if properly maintained, when dead and connected to a system, they can sometimes draw down any other batteries as well as create some unexplainable symptoms even with a separator or isolator, as there’s the possibility of not having enough current for them to properly function, or they’re just shot. Those original isolators tend to go as well, even though you said you tested, it may be stuck open, or closed if you’re not getting a charge.
In my case, after I purchased our rig, I’d find the starting battery dead after only 2 days of sitting, it was being drawn down by the house battery which was shot along with the original isolator, both needed to be replaced, I now have a separator and a solar system to keep the battery bank charged, not only when idle, but when we’re camped to keep things topped.
When you do get things sorted, if you don’t already, suggest you add a solar panel and charger.


'03 Ford E350 7.3L Diesel
SMB RB50 w/CCV top
Quigley 4X4 w/Deavers & Agile RIP kit
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Old 06-03-2018, 08:35 AM   #4
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Before you go too far down this path I would recommend swapping to a Blue Sea isolator. The Sure Power units have been trouble for most folks and yours is 23 years old. I've put Blue Sea 7610 isolators in about 6 rigs now and never a problem. They are also bi-directional and will maintain your chassis battery as well as house when connected to shore power or with house solar panels.

A 100 watt (at least) solar panel would also be a great upgrade.

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Old 06-03-2018, 09:19 AM   #5
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Before you go too far down this path I would recommend swapping to a Blue Sea isolator. The Sure Power units have been trouble for most folks and yours is 23 years old. I've put Blue Sea 7610 isolators in about 6 rigs now and never a problem. They are also bi-directional and will maintain your chassis battery as well as house when connected to shore power or with house solar panels.

A 100 watt (at least) solar panel would also be a great upgrade.

86Scotty -

I purchased my SMB used so this is all new to me. Where exactly is the isolator and separator located? Do all SMBs have each or one or the other?

Thanks.
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Old 06-03-2018, 09:28 AM   #6
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Should be under the hood near the battery. The two on late model Sportsmobiles I've dealt with were pretty hidden. You may have to look below the battery to find it. It's blue with heat syncs like an audio amplifier. What year is your van? Someone here with the same year might be able to tell you exactly.
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Old 06-03-2018, 02:56 PM   #7
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Should be under the hood near the battery. The two on late model Sportsmobiles I've dealt with were pretty hidden. You may have to look below the battery to find it. It's blue with heat syncs like an audio amplifier. What year is your van? Someone here with the same year might be able to tell you exactly.
Scotty -

Is's a 2006 E350 diesel

D.
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Old 06-03-2018, 03:38 PM   #8
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Thanks everyone. It has the side facing gaucho/sofa. The battery is in a battery box deep in there. There must be a way to flip up the sofa to access the battery? There's a front door that opens out but it doesn't give enough height to pull out the batt. I'm missing something.
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Old 06-03-2018, 03:46 PM   #9
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Reckon this oughta do it.
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Old 06-03-2018, 04:17 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Botchan View Post
Scotty -

Is's a 2006 E350 diesel

D.
Your SMB should have the Surepower Separator 1315-200.



Quote:
Originally Posted by SMB123 View Post
I finally got to try out my ac/dc clamp meter. When I disconnected the house connection and only had the vehicle side connected, there was no discernible current from the positive battery cable. When I connected the house cable, the current draw shot up.


So we know that either there is a current draw somewhere in the house side of electronics or the isolator isn't working as it's supposed to. Am I wrong in thinking that the isolator by definition should not allow current drain to the house side anyway?


Bad isolator despite the tests I did?



I was wondering if the thing was wired up incorrectly. Below is the illustration. I am not entirely sure on the orientation though. In other words, is this the orientation from looking at it straight ahead or is it from looking at the isolator from that side?



The current connections are, if I'm looking at the isolator from the side of the connections, with this name badge on top, I have the vehicle 12v connection on the left and house connection on the right.


I know the newer isolators have a slightly offset E connection to make orientation easier.
This thread has the testing procedure in it. http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ues-20410.html


-greg
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