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07-01-2019, 02:35 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Mar Vista, CA
Posts: 75
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24V Espar D4
Was hoping someone might know if a step down converter can be used on a 24v Espar D4, so it could be used in a 12v system. Also if these heaters would be appropriate for a van, I know very little about DC electrical, thanks.
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07-01-2019, 08:09 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 144
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You don't need a step DOWN, you need a step UP - you need to turn the van's 12V into 24V to drive the unit. You could get a DC/DC converter that would do that, but the price, plus the fact that you aren't experienced with electronics, suggests you might be better off just getting a 12V unit. Are you looking at a hydronic unit or an airtronic? Are you heating antifreeze or air? Do you already have the D4, or are you looking to buy?
If you don't already have the unit, and you just want hot air, not hot water, you might be better off going with a knock-off unit from AliBaba - the price will be MUCH lower, and you can get a 12V unit.
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07-01-2019, 08:55 PM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Mar Vista, CA
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wowbagger
You don't need a step DOWN, you need a step UP - you need to turn the van's 12V into 24V to drive the unit. You could get a DC/DC converter that would do that, but the price, plus the fact that you aren't experienced with electronics, suggests you might be better off just getting a 12V unit. Are you looking at a hydronic unit or an airtronic? Are you heating antifreeze or air? Do you already have the D4, or are you looking to buy?
If you don't already have the unit, and you just want hot air, not hot water, you might be better off going with a knock-off unit from AliBaba - the price will be MUCH lower, and you can get a 12V unit.
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They are airtronic units, and it's too late I'm now the proud owner of 5 of them, so it'd be nice if I could get one to work for me, if not, I've made bigger mistakes. They are all brand new by the way.
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07-02-2019, 09:41 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Croydon, PA
Posts: 305
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Will your van have a 120VAC setup? If so, the easier solution would be to get a 120VAC to 24VDC transformer. Those are pretty common (we spec them all the time for control power).
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07-02-2019, 05:04 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Mar Vista, CA
Posts: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IanF
Will your van have a 120VAC setup? If so, the easier solution would be to get a 120VAC to 24VDC transformer. Those are pretty common (we spec them all the time for control power).
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So the 120AC power would come from an inverter, to a 120AC to 24DC transformer?
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07-02-2019, 06:30 PM
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#6
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,490
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Just see how many amp you need to run the 24V Espar D4 and find a 12 to 24 converter that can supply that current. They are not really difficult to find.
https://www.amazon.com/Daygreen-Modu...78185718&psc=1
I would not recommend inverting 12V DC to 120 AC and then 120 AC back to 24V, there would be to much lost in conversion to make it worthwhile.
-greg
__________________
-greg
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"Goldilocks" 2020 Ford Transit High Roof Extended 3.5 EcoBoost AWD Homebuilt
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07-03-2019, 12:06 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Mar Vista, CA
Posts: 75
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the information.
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07-03-2019, 07:47 AM
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#8
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,490
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The one that I provided a link to has an input low spec of 11 volts, which should be good, depending on your wire runs.
This unit has a lower input 9 Volts
https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-W...1X5TGMM3PSHGNS
__________________
-greg
__________________________________________________ ______________
"Goldilocks" 2020 Ford Transit High Roof Extended 3.5 EcoBoost AWD Homebuilt
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07-07-2019, 06:35 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 174
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Espar parts Michigan has a guy named Aaron who I guarantee you can answer that question perfectly.
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07-08-2019, 05:33 AM
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#10
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Posts: 144
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One thing to look out for: The Espar has a significant start-up current - many tens of amps - to drive the glowplug until the system lights off, so don't just look at the steady-state current needed to run the motors.
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