AC vs/or DC?

[McZippie]

Originally Posted by daveb

Yes I can see where you really wouldn't need AC in the van unless you're planning a microwave. Do you really need one? To me it's a luxury item that requires a substantial cost to set up. Even if you want a MW in the van, a single inverter to power it will require you to match it to the MW hence more money.

Dave

^^^^ In our Rig, to power a cheapie $89.00 Walmart microwave, there is over $5,000.00 of 120 volt components.

Transfer switches, AGM batteries, 120volt fuse distribution panel, wiring, outlets, generator,
shore power, inverter, battery charger/ups, 265 amp alternator.

But like hey man, we can microwave a hot dog in under a minute from a choice of three different 120 volts systems (battery/inverter, shore-power or generator).

[E350]

Hear, Hear! When the Greenies that don't have solar praise the benefits of solar, I ask them if they are prepared to pay $5,000 for an all electric refrigerator. Because that's about what the Engel and four solar panels cost along with the 250 Ahr house battery because the sun doesn't shine at night here.

[chromisdesigns]

Originally Posted by E350

Came across this while looking at Ample Power alternators suggested by Chance:

http://www.amplepower.com/products/living/index.html



Might be of interest to you in your AC vs DC quest.

Also:



http://www.amplepower.com/products/wiring/index.html

Those are both good books, but unless they have been revised, some of the information is out of date. Battery and regulator technology have changed a fair bit since 1998.

[Scalf77]

The bad thing with USB outlets is that there is no real spec for USB power. Well that is actually wrong, there is a spec for USB device power (1.0-2.0) 500mA (3.0) 900Ma. But companies that use it for charging have disregarded that for a long time, Apple being one of the bigger players to do so. I think the IPAD is now close 2 Amps.

The Blue Sea Dual USB Charger Socket PN 1016 previously in this thread support 2.1 Amps total , so if you had a 2Amp device in one you could only put a 100 mA device in the other.
Another thing to remember is this unit has a Parasitic Current Draw of 15mA, not anything to really worry about unless you are going in storage, etc.

I think it might be better to stick with a standard 12 volt socket and use the Dual USB Charger Plug
PN 1017, it has the same specs as the 1016. It would also give you flexibility when going to other 12 volt devices.

-greg

[Spoolin]

Wow, great info here. I have all the info I need to start heading in the right direction. I probably will stick with DC to limit any un-necessary inverters and power loss. Stick to a DC Engel fridge and if necessary a Mircorwave, although a propane stove might just do the trick. Also gonna go with a propane heater, propane is cheap, abundant and should work for my needs.

Also, part of the whole reason trying to figure out which way to go AC vs DC was I want to mate a Trailer that I have with the Van so they both have similar systems and I don't have two rigs with totally different electrical needs.

I picked up my trailer yesterday seems like staying DC might be the way to go! Here's a link to my trailer thread...

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11442