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Old 08-27-2018, 01:40 PM   #151
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Creston
Posts: 10
It is the stock alternator on a 2000 E350 7.3l PSD. I don't know exactly how much current it puts out but it is adequate for everything. Most people have the feeling that a larger alternator is the answer but it is not. It is getting enough voltage at the battery terminals to cause current to flow. I believe the existing alternator is adequate.
I do know that after the house battery is about half way down, I can get about 30 amps delivered by the Battery charger, an Inteli-Power 9140. After a while it drops to the high 20's and continues down as the battery becomes more charged. This is what it would NEVER do with the old original system.

To monitor what is going on, I installed a shunt resistor from the negative leg of the house battery to ground. It is 1 milliohm so it drops little voltage. It is dropping one millivolt per amp. That voltage drop is measured by a volt meter and gives me 0.1 amp resolution. At 30 amps it drops only 30 millivolts.

I would like to have a better (more universal) way of turning on the inverter after a delay. One way is to apply the alternator 12 volts after a delay leaving the inverter switch on but that caused mine to intermittently go into over current and shut off when the 12 volts was applied. I got mine to work by putting in some delay circuitry and a relay that acts like the external ON/OFF switch. If this inverter ever gives up, I can't simply connect up another one since it does not have the delay and on/off stuff. I may look at this again since it represents a reliability/repair issue. Although it has been doing fine for the last 10 years. If you look at the schematic I provided, you can see two diodes which are the diodes in the battery separator that came from Sportsmobile. One of the diodes is not connected. A jumper will revert it back to the original way until I fix the problem that may exist. Have not need to so so.


Mike Wilson
2000 4x4 RB50
7.3l PSD
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