Battery Isolators,Separators, and Switches?

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Scalf77

The reason I use the blue sea switch, is that it takes a possible failing component out of the equation. If I rely on a separate switch to enable the solenoid as a backup, it does not help if the solenoid itself is failing, (Dirty Contacts, failed return spring). By using the hard wired circuit, I can get around the failing solenoid. It may be somewhat inconvenient, but if you are in the middle of a trip when it happens, it would be worth it

Switch 1: Solenoid ( Normal everyday position)
Switch 2: Hard Wired ( for debug or redundancy)
Off: Full disconnect (great if you taking van into shop) or Debug



The same switch could be used in a two separate house battery system. It would be manual, but still pretty easy to deal with. I expect there may be a automated way that exist, if not it would be in the realm of possibility.

-greg

Thanks, but that's not exactly what I was asking. I was asking why not a simpler way to bypass a solenoid failure? Like if you didn't have the Blue Sea 6007 switch at all and the solenoid failed, a jumper across the solenoid switch (the power contacts, not the coil) should allow the van to keep working. Instead of a jumper I was asking about possibly using an on/off switch thinking it would do the same as the Blue Sea switch but a little simpler.

Regardless, I see from your reply that your switch adds the additional "OFF" position which wasn't clear to me from diagram. That's an advantage that would not exist otherwise. Although for service I'm not sure I wouldn't be OK with just turning power off to solenoid.

[daveb]

Every time my surepower failed I just jumpered it out. Done it several times. I made up a little jumper and keep it in the van. I also have one of those battery switches but have never used it. 7622 has been flawless

[Scalf77]

Originally Posted by Chance

Thanks, but that's not exactly what I was asking. I was asking why not a simpler way to bypass a solenoid failure? Like if you didn't have the Blue Sea 6007 switch at all and the solenoid failed, a jumper across the solenoid switch (the power contacts, not the coil) should allow the van to keep working. Instead of a jumper I was asking about possibly using an on/off switch thinking it would do the same as the Blue Sea switch but a little simpler.

Regardless, I see from your reply that your switch adds the additional "OFF" position which wasn't clear to me from diagram. That's an advantage that would not exist otherwise. Although for service I'm not sure I wouldn't be OK with just turning power off to solenoid.

OK, I am in sync with you now. Yes, you could use a on/off switch (6006 or 6005), it would not help you if you had a broken return spring or stuck on condition. I agree the disconnect to the coil would be fine.

Daveb.
Yes, a jumper would work, but again it does not solve the stuck condition, but then again you could just undo it. The point was to build in the redundancy and ease of use.

I also agree the 7622 is a better option but more costly option

-greg

[daveb]

Yep, I agree Greg. While in Colorado I bought one when the surepower began to chatter. I killed the Surepower then temp rigged the switch so at night I could isolate from the starting system. I might do as you did one of these days and install it permanent.

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Scalf77

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Wait let’s say I was running the Starcool on high for three of those hours, 20 amp draw at three hrs would be 60 amp hours, now we are down to 42.8 Amp Hours left.

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I know the Starcool here is used only as an example and is not pertinent to battery-charging discussion, but out of curiosity on my part, what does 20 AMPS represent? Wasn't Starcool an air conditioner? A current draw of 20 AMPS seems high for fans only and too low for air conditioning. AC fans normally use very little power and I would have expected around 200 AMPS for AC cooling; which is one reason running air conditioning off batteries requires so much capacity. Just want to learn if Starcools had unusual features compared to other systems. If only a typo it's understandable too.

[Scalf77]

The blower for the Starcool III is DC, the starcool III operates in two modes, and extension of the E350 stock air conditioning or when parked it has it's own 110 volt compressor. But in this case I expect I was referencing driving and having the AC on high. With a broken separator you could be drawing a lot of current off of your house battery. So the 20 amps was referring to the DC Blower. The Starcool was a somewhat unique system, that has been replaced by a newer system referenced as the "Danhard" system. It is independent of the stock system, and you would need to run the inverter while driving.

I hope that answer the question, I have added a some documentation on the system

[Chance]

Originally Posted by Scalf77

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I hope that answer the question, I have added a some documentation on the system

Yes, it does answer my question. Thanks. And thanks for the attachment too, I'll study it later. Should be interesting reading.

I have to admit that 20 AMPS X 12 Volts seems like a lot of power for an AC blower but I guess I shouldn't be surprised. My small AC uses a fraction of an AMP at 110 Volts. Although it probably moves a lot less air.

[Scalf77]

Well for clarity it is actually a 12 volt blower and condenser fan (SMB manual list it at 24 amps with Blower on High)
-greg

[ProfessorPaddle]

Just thought I would say thanks for the great post. Very helpful.

Now if only they made a silent model of the 7622 so you didn't hear the clunk each time it engages or dis-engages, although it is nice to know it is doing it's job back there.

[BroncoHauler]

Originally Posted by ProfessorPaddle

...

Now if only they made a silent model of the 7622 so you didn't hear the clunk each time it engages or dis-engages, although it is nice to know it is doing it's job back there.

That's so you know it's working.