Blue Sea ACR Wiring ?

[Ocsmb]

Thanks Dave. The wires dangling from the ACR I have. I just wasn't sure about what guage wire to connect the remote switch to the house battery.

Also, I saw in the Blue Sea FAQ the customer service rep recommended to ground at the battery terminal. So was just double checking.

Cheers and hope all is well with you.

[daveb]

Well that would probably be best but not how SMB did it with my 7622 or the Surepower. A poor ground could cause issues with how the thing operates.

[Ocsmb]

Hey Dave, I have a weak house battery. Doesn't hold a charge. Most the time hovers below 10 volts.

Is there a way to have the alternator automatically charge the start battery until it's topped off and then charge the house battery?

[daveb]

Originally Posted by Ocsmb

Hey Dave, I have a weak house battery. Doesn't hold a charge. Most the time hovers below 10 volts.

Is there a way to have the alternator automatically charge the start battery until it's topped off and then charge the house battery?

As a normal automatic operation as part of the 7622? Not that I know of. Maybe Greg can chime in here. The separator will open to protect the alternator/start battery as soon as the the house battery drops below 12.8 and the H-battery will begin to self discharge. The bad thing is when the alternator or shore charger are working, either one of them will send enough charge voltage to close the separator and try to bring the house battery back up. A bad battery can do a few things you really don't want to see:
>>maxing out your alternator.
>>pulling battery reserves from the starting battery system
>>cause the house battery to heat up
>>a catastrophic battery failure from a high amp shore charging sessions can cause a bad battery to catch fire.

In my case, I left the shore charger on and it kept pumping power into the bad battery. The separator stayed closed all night long and in the morning one of my starting batteries was huffing and puffing. It was so hot I could not touch the battery box. I soon learned the weird panel readings I was seeing for the last few weeks was an indicator something was wrong.

I'd suggest you install the 7622 and lock open the separator until you replace the battery.
Hope this helps

[Ocsmb]

Thanks Dave. Noted.

Trying to find the start wire at the ignition switch or someplace else that's easy to splice into for the remote switch. Any suggestions ?

[daveb]

Not sure, SMB did that during the build. I just guessed it was off the fuse block. I have only one ignition wire running to the separator IIRC plus the harness which runs from the switch to the separator. My switch is mounted above the side barn doors. I'm guessing you're using this one right?

[Ocsmb]

That's the remote I have.

Wondering if this black pink wire is it

[daveb]

PM CarringB or maybe start a thread in the engine section. I'm sure somebody can tell you.

[Scalf77]

My 2004 Books say that the start circuit on the key switch connector C250, the switched power to the start solenoid is WH/PK. It should go to your fuse block F2.33 (Starter Relay Diesel), Digital Transmission Range Sensor (Except Diesel). Also F2.27 is for Radio. (Start Cut Out).this goes to PIN 3 (RD/BK) on the Radio Connector.

-greg

[Ocsmb]

Originally Posted by Scalf77

My 2004 Books say that the start circuit on the key switch connector C250, the switched power to the start solenoid is WH/PK. It should go to your fuse block F2.33 (Starter Relay Diesel), Digital Transmission Range Sensor (Except Diesel). Also F2.27 is for Radio. (Start Cut Out).this goes to PIN 3 (RD/BK) on the Radio Connector.

-greg

Thanks Greg.

I tapped into the fuse block like you guys suggested.