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Old 06-23-2017, 11:46 PM   #1
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Bluesea issue?

A couple days ago I spent some time helping a new SMB owner with a dead house battery that was accidently discharged to about 2V and wasnít recharging. It turned out that there was a Blueseas separator that was in lock out.The lockout condition is triggered when battery voltage goes below something like 9V.Once at that point, the separator will not close, which doesnít allow the alternator to recharge the house battery until itís recharged by some other method.Plugging into shore power was the obvious solution, but if one were someplace where there was no shore power, the only other way I could think of to recharge it, would be to install a jumper wire across the two battery terminals.This seems like a silly design. Anyone else had this problem?
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Old 06-24-2017, 12:25 AM   #2
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Were you dealing with the 7610? As far as I know it won't close if either battery is below 9.5v and will not come out of lockout until the voltage of the offending battery is increased above 9.5

The 7622 has both a manual override knob and remote switch which will allow you to force it closed, force it open, or operate in auto mode which follows the voltage parameters set by Blue Sea.

I bought the 7622 for the exact reason you are asking about. I just wanted the additional control that it offered over the 7610. Of course it's almost twice the price, but you get the extra capabilities. Also, the 7622 has higher current ratings.
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Old 06-24-2017, 08:59 AM   #3
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I have the 7610 and carry a short (9" or so) battery cable jumper for those occasions....haven't had to use it yet.
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Old 06-24-2017, 09:45 AM   #4
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This is a feature of most of the ACR's. In theory if you were to try and charge a very depleted battery, you may damage your alternator. Take into account that your shore charger may also have some low voltage lockout, and you could be screwed.

With the old Surepower 1315 ,I had installed a Bluesea 6007 switch in parallel to the unit. This allowed me a manual disconnect, normal operation , and manual bypass or connect method. Much like the yellow manual switch on the 7622. One benefit of the separate switch ,if the ACR has a contact issue of some sort, you still have a way around it. It obviously comes at a price of space to mount and extra cabling.

If I had concerns about, the depleted battery causing issues with the alternator, I would manually connect and try to let the battery banks equalise to get the depleted battery high enough to lessen that concern.


A low voltage disconnect is another way of making sure you don't run into this.
-greg
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Old 06-24-2017, 05:04 PM   #5
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Yes, the unit Jeff's referring to is a 7610.
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Old 06-24-2017, 07:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalf77 View Post
With the old Surepower 1315 ,I had installed a Bluesea 6007 switch in parallel to the unit. This allowed me a manual disconnect, normal operation , and manual bypass or connect method. Much like the yellow manual switch on the 7622. One benefit of the separate switch ,if the ACR has a contact issue of some sort, you still have a way around it. It obviously comes at a price of space to mount and extra cabling.

If I had concerns about, the depleted battery causing issues with the alternator, I would manually connect and try to let the battery banks equalise to get the depleted battery high enough to lessen that concern.


-greg
The 7610 and the 6007 switch are readily available together as an "add-a-battery" kit. That's what I bought but like Scalf77 mentioned above I didn't have the real estate to mount the switch...so I just carry a short battery cable.
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Old 06-24-2017, 11:29 PM   #7
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So, in theory, I could carry a battery cable long enough to reach between the two batteries, to "equalize the charge" across the two, as a recovery attempt, should this happen again?
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Old 06-25-2017, 12:37 AM   #8
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So, in theory, I could carry a battery cable long enough to reach between the two batteries, to "equalize the charge" across the two, as a recovery attempt, should this happen again?
All you need is one long enough to reach from one terminal on the seperator to the other terminal, probably 6 or 8 inches long.
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Old 06-25-2017, 04:21 PM   #9
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All you need is one long enough to reach from one terminal on the seperator to the other terminal, probably 6 or 8 inches long.
Oh, so between the two terminals of the isolator itself, so as to ...er ... remove the "isolation" function that separates the two batteries?

Thanks!
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Old 06-25-2017, 04:52 PM   #10
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Oh, so between the two terminals of the isolator itself, so as to ...er ... remove the "isolation" function that separates the two batteries?

Thanks!
exactly. some isolators have switches (either remote or on the separator) to do this but a short battery cable will work fine.
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