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Old 07-25-2019, 10:39 AM   #1
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Check my new electrical plan...thanks!

Sorry to keep bugging folks here with my electrical questions but I'm getting closer....

I've attached a VERY rough current schematic. Excuse the complete ugliness and lack of conventional symbols.

I've also included a chart from SMB showing what currently exists.

I'm going with the Kisae 30A unit. And will be installing a new Progressive Dynamics 40A lithium-specific converter to replace the same 9140 older model, like for like basically. I'm using pretty much the existing wiring SMB put in. The Kisae will sit where I currently have an old solar controller, that wiring will remain the same (fused, switched input from panel). And two LiFePO4 batteries.

The new wiring will be to remove the direct attachment of the 6 AWG wire direct from the engine bay to house battery, and instead connect that to the Kisae. In the engine bay I remove the Sure Power isolator, and replace it with the relay suggested elsewhere here. It is triggered by ignition on, from a yet-to-be-determined fuse tap somewhere in the inside fuse box (couldn't find an ign on to tap in the engine bay). For those not familiar with the other Kisae threads, this is so the Kisae will not receive power from the alternator when the engine is turned off, since it seems to want to linger a while. And it just seems like a good idea since I'm used to having an isolator there.

I'd be moving the alt and battery wires off the isolator to put them on the 87 stud of the relay. I'm wondering if I should add a fuse there? SMB doesn't list one, but there could be one somewhere I can't see. Necessary? there's a breaker between the relay/isolator and the run to the back of the van already.

I'm also adding a battery kill switch to the negative side of the battery. Although I've draw them poorly the grounds go to a somewhat central chassis ground (the case ground for the PD9140 converter is separate). There's a shunt there for a Link 10 which is currently uninstalled, but I may put that back since it gives me amperage, although I don't use it for much else.

Also, the PD9160 isn't fused from that unit to the battery. Not sure if it has internal fusing or breaker (it does have polarity protection), and SMB didn't install anything there. I do have a catastropic/terminal block fuse at the battery though. 150A if I recall correctly.

Any suggestions? I must have missed something.

And thanks for all the help here, it's been fantastic. And BTW, thanks to both Battle Born and Kisae, they have great support. Progressive Dynamics, not so much.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf electrical upgrade.pdf (321.3 KB, 46 views)
File Type: pdf smb.pdf (507.2 KB, 24 views)
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Old 07-27-2019, 07:57 AM   #2
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That actually is a great schematic.
I've just got 2 wet cells for the house batteries.
An old solar controller that I'll just have to bypass.
A shore power charger / inverter.

Do you have a model number for the relay to put in place of the isolator?
Thanks,
Bob
2000 SMB Chevy express
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Old 07-27-2019, 09:19 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobd254 View Post
That actually is a great schematic.
I've just got 2 wet cells for the house batteries.
An old solar controller that I'll just have to bypass.
A shore power charger / inverter.

Do you have a model number for the relay to put in place of the isolator?
Thanks,
Bob
2000 SMB Chevy express
It's towards the bottom of this thread: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...tml#post255407
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Old 07-27-2019, 10:23 AM   #4
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To be clear the above mentioned relay is not intended to replace an existing isolator. The KISAE DMT-1230 in this case is replacing the isolator. The relays function is to only enable the alternator input of KISAE DMT-12XX input to only when the engine is running. While I did see the KISAE converting power from the starting battery after the engine is turned off, that really was only because I monitor my system more than the average user. I found no real issue that this caused, and pointed it out as an observation.

The real reason I show the schematic with relay is because I the KISAE input to be isolated when the KISAE shower charger was being used. It has a secondary output that can be used to charge a secondary battery ( in this case the starter). If I was to charge the starter and not isolate than the KISAE DMT-12xx would see the voltage increase and think the alternator was running. This would cause an ugly loop in charging.

A couple of notes on the drawing, you should make sure you add, another ground cable to the start to ground connection. This should be the same size as the positive cable going to the KISAE via relay. You could of course use a larger cable in place of the multiple cables. You do need to place a fuse between the battery and the relay (or move the circuit breaker as it becomes redundant) I usually use the BlueSea MRBF fuse holder and fuse.

I would also change the terminal fuse on the house batteries to class T fuse.

If you are limiting yourself to the DMT-1230 because of alternator output, than I would purchase the DMT-1250 now, you can always set up the unit to limit to 30 amps if needed. Of course this also means wire size increase, although the cost is higher now, it is cheaper than replacing everything twice.

I would refer to the installation instructions on the fusing of the Progressive Dynamics charger, they I believe they generally fuse their outputs. It would generally be good practice to fuse. Sportsmobile does a lot of less than ideal wiring practices in my opinion.

I think that is all for now.

-greg
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Old 07-27-2019, 12:47 PM   #5
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Thanks for the help.

I'm installing the relay because given my driving the extra non-ignition-on 3 minute drain could add up, and I want something to kill power to the rear anyway, and so the ignition seems logical. Especially since I would have assumed 0 amps when the vehicle is off; hate to get surprised by an isolation that isn't isolating, even for a couple of minutes.

And not sure what you mean by "start to ground." I abbreviated the van's wiring except for just the two coming into the relay. Are you referring to the van's starter system?

And you're right; I had considered the 50A Kisae. But the existing wiring and overall system is set lower than that, and just too much work for the extra power. And some of that upgrade money is being spent on the batteries, which I hope will make up for the lack of input power with some faster charging, etc. Just trying to tailor it to the kind of use I already know I do. And besides, in doing this I've already discovered stuff to fix I didn't even know was broken, like my coax to my antenna...aargh.

Thanks so much for the help, but here and in your previous threads. And the tip on the Kisae; they're great folks. Oh, and BTW, I see what you mean about the monitor mounting. That jack at the bottom is super annoying. And the on-off on the main unit. It might at least be a bit accessible for me, as I'm going to mount it sideways as it will get better ventilation that way. I don't expect to have to use the button though.
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Old 07-27-2019, 01:23 PM   #6
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Starting battery to ground connection. Since you have a 6 awg cable going to KISAE positive, I usually would add a 6 awg to from the start battery ground to frame ground. The same as if you were running a ground cable from battery to KISAE.

I forgot that you already mentioned that your were trying to reuse the existing wire.

My comment on the relay was more that I didn't want anybody thinking it was recommended as a replacement to the isolator. I understand why you are putting it there..

Yes, I am very pleased with KISAE products.

-greg
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Old 07-27-2019, 02:08 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scalf77 View Post
Starting battery to ground connection. Since you have a 6 awg cable going to KISAE positive, I usually would add a 6 awg to from the start battery ground to frame ground. The same as if you were running a ground cable from battery to KISAE.

I forgot that you already mentioned that your were trying to reuse the existing wire.

My comment on the relay was more that I didn't want anybody thinking it was recommended as a replacement to the isolator. I understand why you are putting it there..

Yes, I am very pleased with KISAE products.

-greg
Good clarifications; thanks.
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