CO Detector Fuse

[rltilley]

I need to replace the CO detector in my 2013 Econoline SMB but can't find the fuse. The diagram in the manual SMB gave me shows a separate fuse for the detectors but mine only has 4 fuses as seen in the picture linked to below. I pulled them all but none shut off the CO detector. Is there another fuse box somewhere? This is located just below the rear seat in my RB50 build.

https://roberttilley.smugmug.com/Car...le/i-x5kQHS6/A

Sounds like there should be a main fuse near the box that may shut it off as well but I had no luck finding that either.

[Glider]

Ultimately, there are only two possibilities: either the CO detector is being powered by your house batteries, or by your chassis battery. It should be your house battery, but one never knows.

If it is your house batteries, then pulling the cables at the house battery bank will do it. Messier than pulling a fuse, but it will get the job done.

It leaves me curious, however...do you have some miscellaneous wiring connected to the positive terminal on your house side? If so, perhaps they wired the CO detector directly to the battery--maybe with an inline fuse.

In any event, I suspect the fastest way to trace the power source is to start pulling wires at the house battery bank. When the CO detector powers down:
1. you will know which wire to chase;
2. you will have the option of using a tone and probe to chase it if you get curious about exactly where it goes.

[rltilley]

The diagram in the binder SMB gave says it should be powered off of the house battery so I'll need to climb under there tomorrow and see if I can find anything. Is there any downside to disconnecting the house battery temporarily? I'm electrically challenged so I worry any time I start touching wires. Thanks!


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[BrianW]

Others may disagree, but I wouldn’t worry about pulling the fuse just to remove and replace the detector. If you are worried just put a piece of electrical tape on the hot wire temporarily while you work.

If you have an older detector, you may need to enlarge the hole a bit as the newer ones are larger than some older ones, even replacing with the same make and model.

As an aside, I added an inline switch to the detector wiring right next to the detector, so I could turn it off when not being used. Easier than pulling the fuse when parking the van for longer periods.

[Glider]

Originally Posted by BrianW

Others may disagree, but I wouldn’t worry about pulling the fuse just to remove and replace the detector. If you are worried just put a piece of electrical tape on the hot wire temporarily while you work.

I agree that that is the simplest solution. If you want to go one step more cautious, you can disconnect just the negative cable from the house battery bank (just be careful not to touch the positive battery terminal with your wrench while it is connected to the negative side). With the negative cable disconnected, the circuit will be broken, and power to the CO detector will be off.

That said, I agree with Brian that if you use a wire nut or a piece of electrical tape to cover the exposed end of the positive wire at the CO detector while you are in the process of changing it out, you will be fine. I also like Brian's inline switch idea.

[fw500a]

On my 2013 EB50 build there is an additional fuse panel under the rear seat with fuses for the CO and propane detector with both clearly labeled.

[rltilley]

The only fuse box I see on my 2013 RB50 build is linked to in the 1st post above. I looked for another but struck out. Do you need to lift the seat up to access the additional fuse box? I thought about checking under there but figured nothing would be there due to the water tank being under the seat.


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[rltilley]

Found it. It was there under the seat. Had to lift up the seat to access it and it was under a child-proof cover that I managed to get off without breaking. Thanks all!

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[rltilley]

Here is where the 2nd fuse box is in my build:

https://roberttilley.smugmug.com/Car...le/i-dP2S2B3/A

My CO detector had a date stamp of 7/3/12 & my van was picked up in December 2012 so the 5 year end of life chime was pretty much right on time. SMB used crimp on connectors which I couldn't get off so I had to cut the wires and use screw on connectors since that was all I had. I assume they used crimp on connectors due to road vibration? Maybe the screw on types come undone due to vibration so I'll likely hit Home Depot & pick up some better connectors.

[BrianW]

Replace the wire nuts with crimp connectors or do a good twist-wiring job. In either event, make sure to either use shrink-tubing (or shrink connectors) or good electrical tape over top.

FYI, often you can remove crimp connectors by using pliers to flatten out the crimp the opposite way and then pull the wires out.