Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-05-2016, 10:49 AM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 80
DC Power Alternator

I'm in the process of upgrading to the 270xp. For those of you who have done similar upgrades in the past, do you have any helpful hints on wiring upgrades to make in conjunction with the alternator? There is currently one wire going from the alternator to what I assume is the fuse block (it snaked into a place I couldn't follow without time, tools & beer). My intention is to upgrade the size of the wire going to the fuse block and add an additional wire that goes straight to the (+) terminal on the under-the-hood batt. Any tips would be helpful!!
__________________

TheWooginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2016, 11:48 AM   #2
Senior Member
 
REDOVAL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Lomita, CA
Posts: 629
Garage
I would do what most in the car audio community call the big 3- Alternator 12v lead directly to battery, ground from alternator case/mount to chassis and a ground from the same alternator ground to the battery. The factory wiring is underwhelming and can't make proper use of a real high output alternator. My suggestion is 1/0 unless you have high electrical demands that warrant more capabilities. I have used the 2/0 Excelene welding cable with great results; it is flexible and easy to route/manipulate.

These upgrades are on my list for the near future as well.

Scott
__________________

__________________
2002 Ford E350 V10 Traveler
Vantage Optics Headlights
www.VantageOptics.com
REDOVAL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2016, 12:05 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 1,671
The big 3 for sure. The stock wiring can't handle the power the XP270 is going to put out. You're going to need longer lengths (for the batteries on the frame rail than what is in this kit) but should give you a good idea of what is needed. Complete Wiring Kit
__________________
2005 E350 RB 6.0 PSD for extended fun
1989 Landcruiser FJ62 for local fun
2011 VW TDI Golf for hwy fun
JoeH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2016, 01:04 PM   #4
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 80
So the nice thing is that the wiring from the hood battery to the framerail battery and the lines to the inverter and house batts are already upgraded to something about the size of my index finger. I just need to do the main line to the (+) batt, upgrade the line to the fuse block, and the large chassis ground. You guys also like to run a large ground to the (-) terminal on the hood battery?
TheWooginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-05-2016, 01:33 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
REDOVAL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Lomita, CA
Posts: 629
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheWooginator View Post
So the nice thing is that the wiring from the hood battery to the framerail battery and the lines to the inverter and house batts are already upgraded to something about the size of my index finger. I just need to do the main line to the (+) batt, upgrade the line to the fuse block, and the large chassis ground. You guys also like to run a large ground to the (-) terminal on the hood battery?
Using a common battery and charging ground is a good idea if you can verify a solid corrosion free connection.

Scott
__________________
2002 Ford E350 V10 Traveler
Vantage Optics Headlights
www.VantageOptics.com
REDOVAL is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2016, 08:04 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 80
UPDATE: I got the DC Power 270xp installed. Had a few hiccups along the way, but overall I'm really impressed so far. The adapter harness they supplied didn't match the "OEM" plug under my hood, but went to autozone and got the "OEM" from them and it matched. Makes me wonder what the discrepancy was? Spliced the one from autozone into the wiring harness and that took care of it. Added a 2/0 wire straight from the alternator output terminal in addition to the original termination. I picked up some sweet mechanical terminal blocks from a local electrical supplier that worked great. They were aluminum, so easy to drill out to the correct terminal size for bolting up. I have yet to add ground wires, but so far so good. I'll get around to it one of these days.
Performance: Rock solid. Cold voltage on startup was showing 15.0 at my inverter even with the glow plugs running. Once it warmed up, it settled out to a rock steady 14.7, no matter what we were using. I have yet to test it with the winch in operation, but it had no troubles at all charging the starting batts and the house batts at idle. It's spendy at $600, but so far it's totally worth it, especially for those in cold climates.
TheWooginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2016, 10:52 PM   #7
Senior Member
 
Bbasso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 1,258
What kinda batteries do you have for starting and what type for house batteries?
I ask because some batteries have certain requirements for amp/volts...
__________________
Rob.
Current:
2001 E350 PSD w/ a bunch of stuff.
And had three other E350s...
Bbasso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2016, 11:10 PM   #8
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Flagstaff, AZ
Posts: 1,671
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bbasso View Post
What kinda batteries do you have for starting and what type for house batteries?
I ask because some batteries have certain requirements for amp/volts...
ooh, that's a good point. I think it's only for AGM batteries that you need the lower voltage regulator?

I have the XP250 and it's charging 14.7-14.9 within 10 sec of start-up and draw down by those amp hungry glow plugs.
__________________
2005 E350 RB 6.0 PSD for extended fun
1989 Landcruiser FJ62 for local fun
2011 VW TDI Golf for hwy fun
JoeH is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2016, 11:14 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Bbasso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Western North Carolina
Posts: 1,258
My agm house batteries have a max of 14.7 and 45 amp in...
I wish I could squeeze .3 v out of my dual alternators to hit max for the batteries...
__________________
Rob.
Current:
2001 E350 PSD w/ a bunch of stuff.
And had three other E350s...
Bbasso is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 10:34 AM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Fort Collins, Colorado
Posts: 80
Normal duralast golds for the startup batts, but definitely 6v AGM's for the house batts. They asked me if I had AGM's and if I wanted the special unit with the lower voltage, but I'm just not worried about it. I'm planning on running different (solar/lithium) in the future anyway which means I'll have a dedicated charge controller from xantrex or something anyway. I figure if they are seeing 14.7, they should be fine. If not, I'll worry about it when they quit on me.
__________________

TheWooginator is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sportsmobile SIP or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:35 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.