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Old 10-02-2019, 02:00 PM   #1
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E-350 Cruise Control

my cruise control stopped working on my 1998 E-350 7.3 Diesel. I saw a few videos that it could be the Cruise control sensor activator pressure switch.

part they are suggesting is Motorcraft SW6350 Brake Repair Kit


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...VVVDFWRF4NVH2L


Any one have any other suggestions?

Thanks,
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Old 10-02-2019, 02:40 PM   #2
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The switch on the master cylinder seems to be a common problem.


http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...ing-24069.html


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 10-02-2019, 03:23 PM   #3
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Quick way to check if it is the switch on the master cylinder is to take the wiring harness off and use a paper clip or something to jump the two sides together on the harness. Take it for a spin and see if your CC works. If it does, then the switch on the master cylinder is bad. If it still doesn't work, then there is something else to look into.
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Old 10-02-2019, 07:53 PM   #4
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Switched mine out today. Still no cruise. Ordered new steering wheel buttons off eBay after that. Then brake switch or click spring. What’s after that?
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Old 10-03-2019, 09:40 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vandiesel View Post
Switched mine out today. Still no cruise. Ordered new steering wheel buttons off eBay after that. Then brake switch or click spring. What’s after that?
The actual VSC servo (underhood) would be the only remaining thing to check.

BTW there is an entire diagnostic check procedure for the VSC---should be in the appropriate year's EVTM under Pin Point Tests. Following that eliminates firing the parts cannon at a problem, helps you zero in on the actual problem.
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Old 10-03-2019, 09:57 AM   #6
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It may vary depending on the year, but many of the cruise control systems in the E-series were vacuum operated. The first thing to check would be if the system can old a vacuum. If not, start going through the various components until you find the leak. After 20+ years in a hot environment, all of the various hoses can get brittle.
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Old 10-03-2019, 06:22 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JWA View Post
The actual VSC servo (underhood) would be the only remaining thing to check.



BTW there is an entire diagnostic check procedure for the VSC---should be in the appropriate year's EVTM under Pin Point Tests. Following that eliminates firing the parts cannon at a problem, helps you zero in on the actual problem.


But life is so boring without firing a parts cannon :-). Mine won’t turn on yet so I think I have an electrical problem first. I will go through that diagnostics next but I also changed out the steering wheel so I figured that is probably where my problem lies.
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Old 10-10-2019, 01:54 PM   #8
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Does your horn work? Yes they are related.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Pdtdc5D944jneNYz9
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Old 10-12-2019, 09:38 AM   #9
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My horn works fine.
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Old 10-13-2019, 04:54 AM   #10
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But life is so boring without firing a parts cannon :-). Mine won’t turn on yet so I think I have an electrical problem first. I will go through that diagnostics next but I also changed out the steering wheel so I figured that is probably where my problem lies.
True enough on the parts cannon---in an odd way going that route gives us the illusion we're at least doing something (accomplishments notwithstanding)

The diagnostic procedure essentially trouble shoots the entire electrical circuit for the VSC. For the most part following the EVTM's resistance values for the steering wheel switches will tell you if the servo is bad or another part of that circuit has failed.

And yes if you've changed the steering wheel and not used the original switches and connectors that could very well be the issue.
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