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Old 04-11-2019, 05:01 PM   #1
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electrical help

All...
First time poster, long time lurker.
I have a 2011 Sprinter SMB.
House batteries were replaced a year ago (then replaced under warranty 2 months ago after a failure).
Inverter, solar panels, shore charge, inverter, etc. all seem to work as expected (charging, holding charge, etc.). However, the house batteries do not charge when the engine is running, which they did formerly. The company that replaced the house batteries can't schedule me in for a follow up for a couple months (I don't think I'll be going there again). Outside of trying a different shop, anyone have obvious suggestions on how to diagnose, remedy, or fix?
If I need an expert's opinion, does anyone have a shop they trust in the Boulder, CO area they can recommend. Reviews for the single RV shop in town are quite poor.

Thanks!

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Old 04-11-2019, 05:38 PM   #2
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Sounds like the isolation relay. Easy fix probably not an "expert" level issue. If Boulder sucks go to a Denver shop like Cousins RV, Trailer Source, Ketelsen, or Camping world.
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Old 04-11-2019, 05:40 PM   #3
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There should be a fuse and a battery isolator or separator near the starting battery battery that runs to other batteries. At least that is where it is in my van. Check that fuse and check the isolator/separator to see if it's working. Mine went bad and it wouldn't charge off the alternator.
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Old 04-11-2019, 09:49 PM   #4
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Had something similar on my 2016 Sprinter. There are several MIDI fuses on a terminal block located adjacent to the engine battery. Power flows from the alternator to this fuse to the house battery. Blew the fuse, no alternator power to the house.


This picture shows the engine battery. What you are looking for is in the lower right-hand corner.



Here is what my 2016 has. The first 150 Amp fuse from the left is the supply to the house system.



This fuse block is stock MB, details are shown in the Fuse Supplement to the manual. SMB simply added the one fuse in an open position.


Hopefully it is this simple for you, I simply don't know if your 2011 is set up the same way.
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Old 04-12-2019, 07:57 AM   #5
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The only specific thing I would add is checking the ground connection of then separator.

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Old 04-23-2019, 03:59 PM   #6
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All, thank.you very much for the help. Turns out the 150 amp fuse in the power block was blown. I’m hoping it blew during the house battery replacement. So far, so good. Thanks again!
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Old 04-28-2019, 01:38 PM   #7
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Helpful info!

Does anyone have photos like this for older models? Mine’s a 2005 Chevy Express, and I’ve had draining problems with my engine battery from an unknown source. Would like to check out some of these ideas but don’t really know where to start.
I also found a tidbit in my books on a possible 3rd
battery “ hidden” somewhere in the van! Anyone else ever heard if this?
Thanks......
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Old 04-30-2019, 03:38 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by obstrep View Post
All...
First time poster, long time lurker.
I have a 2011 Sprinter SMB.
House batteries were replaced a year ago (then replaced under warranty 2 months ago after a failure).
Inverter, solar panels, shore charge, inverter, etc. all seem to work as expected (charging, holding charge, etc.). However, the house batteries do not charge when the engine is running, which they did formerly. The company that replaced the house batteries can't schedule me in for a follow up for a couple months (I don't think I'll be going there again). Outside of trying a different shop, anyone have obvious suggestions on how to diagnose, remedy, or fix?
If I need an expert's opinion, does anyone have a shop they trust in the Boulder, CO area they can recommend. Reviews for the single RV shop in town are quite poor.

Thanks!
This just happened to my neighbors. They are still in their warranty but were forced to pay $1,200 for 2 new batteries and an inverter. Unfortunately, Sportsmobile is known for their electrical problems.

I'm not sure how their inverter got fried, but the relay switch was bad and that's what did the deed. It sounds like your Relay Switch might be bad. I would test it ASAP. A new switch and a pair of decent batteries won't break the bank, and depending on where your batteries are located, you can probably swap them out yourself.
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