Honda Generator Overload Problems - Page 2

vlamgat · 03-11-2009, 07:55 AM

Running a diesel for 10 minutes after sitting for days or even a couple of weeks is not the best solution for a lot of reasons. Did you try to bring the inverter on line before your connected the 110 power? I am not sure that's the answer either as my success has been mixed.

In addition are you monitoring your voltages during the charge process? Do you (does anybody) see voltage changes with the outside temps?

myriadmyriad · 03-12-2009, 10:22 PM

If your inverter is set to charge at 100 amps, that might cause it. Mine is set to 25 amps.

Jeff

vlamgat · 03-13-2009, 07:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myriadmyriad

If your inverter is set to charge at 100 amps, that might cause it. Mine is set to 25 amps.

Jeff

How do you change that setting? The Tripp-Lite has two charge settingslabled High and Low. The default setting (which mine has always been set at) is Low. The owners manual provides no specifications of loads, charge capacity or charge rates whasoever and the Help Line is even less knowledgable than the ifo provided by the manual.

I have put a load meter on the shore power cable and the highest draw rate I have seen on the Charge Only setting is 4 amps. When the battery is fully charged I see 0.8 amps (charging 3 batteries) and this load fluctuates with ambient temperature. So below 40 deg. the trickle rate is 1.0 to 1.1 amps and above 70 deg. it declines to 0.7 amps. The volt meters on the vehicle and RV batteries show the same effect with the voltage going up as high as 14.9 when below 40 deg and down to 13.2 above 70 deg.

But I reaching a conclusion that my unit is faulty and the charge setting is either too high or there is an internal component that draws too much. Yesterday I could not get the Charge Only setting to work without tripping the 15 amp breaker. It has been working for 6 weeks without problem but tripped yesterday for no reason. After several attempts including the manual reset process, it began to work as previously. Removing and exchanging is a difficult process in these SMB installations because there is so little room to work so I intend to use every means to avoid it including going to a 30 amp breaker.

myriadmyriad · 03-13-2009, 09:13 PM

it is a little slide switch, but if yours is on low that should be ok.

On the tripp-lite spec page (For all the different types of tripp-lites) Spec page is in the owners manual.

Your batteries sound suspect..

Jeff

vlamgat · 03-14-2009, 06:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myriadmyriad

it is a little slide switch, but if yours is on low that should be ok.

On the tripp-lite spec page (For all the different types of tripp-lites) Spec page is in the owners manual.

Your batteries sound suspect..

The general rule with Tripp Lite is all the A switches are down and the B switches up, which includes the Charge rate that is B4. But how did you ascertain what the amperage is for your inverter at the 2 charge settings?

I agree the battery could be suspect but doing a SG test is a major pain because of accessibility.

stevepar · 03-15-2009, 10:58 PM

Well I spent the better part of the weekend playing around with the Honda generator and tried most of the suggestions posted and had some relatively good success. The most succesful thing that worked on a regular basis was to simply let the generator run for 10 minutes with the Triplite turned to charge only and all switches and refer turned off. This seemed to warm up the inverter to the point that when I used most 110 appliances all worked fine except for the microwave, which still tripped the generator overload. This seemed kinda wierd because a toaster and electric skittet worked fine when both were turned on. According to my research a toaster actually pulls more watts than a microwave. I have the larger microwave from SMB, but according to the Sharp website it pulls only 900 Watts (no surge watts given- but doubt that it exceeds the 2000 watts of the generator)

My DIP switches are virtually unreachable due to the cramped install. Even with a mirror and flashlight I couldnt tell how they were set. Next time through Fresno I will check with SMB. I appreciate all the input, this a great forum!!!

jage · 03-16-2009, 11:28 AM

I wonder if that indicates your batteries? Meaning right when you start the gen the batteries don't have the charge to suppliment the invertor, so it overloads the generator.

Instead running the generator for 10 minutes gives them enough juice even in their current state to suppliment the invertor enough so it doesn't overload the generator.

That's 1% theory 99%

btw.

vlamgat · 04-07-2009, 10:36 AM

This thread is all but exhausted but I think we have stumbled on something. I too have tried the suggested method of ensuring that all switches including the master 110V (left on the panel as you face it) are off when connecting to the generator or the mains. This is especially important if you have not just killed the van motor. Then you should wait with the inverter switched to Charge Only for 10 to 15 minutes. This seems to stabilize the voltage and charge the capacitors in the inverter. Then you can bring appliances and particular the ac on line.

On three occasions, separated by days, this has worked for me.